The locking button works via a machined 25 thousandths deep groove in the body and a corresponding stud pressed into the head of the switch, that when turned into the groove, prevents it from being depressed.
As far as the service life, due to its design and replaceable contact, there is nothing to fail on it per se and should last indefinitely with proper care. The only issue that arise with such types of buttons are corrosion of the contact surfaces which periodically need to be cleaned. I highly recommend the use of Silver Conductive Grease where the switch contacts and passes through the body. Silver Conductive grease is available at-
It will dramatically aid in reducing corrosion and aiding the completion of the electrical circuit. DO NOT use di-electric grease, which is an insulating grease and not a conductive grease.
Curious.... Is it that stud that actually makes the negative batt to body connection or is it really just the full switch itself in contact with the body?
The entire switch is the negative. The portion of the switch that comes in contact with the inside of the body is the return path. I took David's advice and purchased some conductive silver grease to help my contact points remain free of corrosion and to lubricate the threads between the atomizer adapter and body, and between threads on my 6v extension sleeve.
It should also be noted, the Super T, though it has a negative ground switch, will not fire when placed on metal or when metal touches both the switch and body simultaneously.
One cool thing about the switch lock is that it's headspaced on the body. So if you've set your throw right, there's no friggin way it's going off if it's just barely engaged. Very well thought out design.
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