Looking for a parallel regulated box mod
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That's where I like vaping. Right around 40. Glad I found someone else ha-ha. I mean I wanna get x cube 2 and tfv4 to see what over 100w is like but let's face it 40w gets the job done. juice consumption is moderate to high. And battery life is average. If I'm at 100 I'm sure it will be well shouldn't it more than double my consumption and half batt life. Granted x cube is a two batt mod
Yup, IMO doubling the power should about double juice consumption per second and battery drain. The only saving grace might be that you may tend to take shorter drags. I know I do that at 100 watts.
I take like two second drags well maybe 2 to 3 on 40 watts and restrice lung hits. It's almost like smoking now which I think is kinda cool. I think so many people are gonna switch in the next few years. Months even
Once you have a voltage regulator in the circuit it doesn't matter if dual batteries are in series or parallel. Two 30 amp batteries will safely produce 150 watts weather they are wired in series or parallel. They will also run for very close to the same length of time in both circuits, the difference between them being due to varying efficiency of the regulator in the two setups.
From Steam Engine:
Dual parallel at 150 watts using 2500 mAh batteries at 3.7V battery output: Batteries combine and make 3.7V and 5000 mAh. Combined battery drain is 45.05A which is 22.5 for each battery (parallel) and it will give you around 7 minutes total run time.
Dual series at 150 watts using 2500 mAh batteries at 3.7V battery output: Batteries combine and make 7.4V and 2500 mAh. Combined battery drain is 22.5A which is 22.5 for each battery (series) and it will give you around 7 minutes total run time.
Hope that helps
There's a problem there.
It's always more efficient to buck down voltage than it is to boost it up. Steam Engine isn't accounting for the power the processor itself requires to operate. The Series mod will operate more efficiently because it's using a buck converter where the Parallel mod has to boost the voltage, so the batteries will last longer in the Series mod if the rest of the math is equal.
Yup, I didn't cover that but I did mention regulator efficiency. There are also mods that use both buck and boost.
LOL... I like this thread, but having the i100 since pre-order, I didn't realize how rare they were.
I'm getting a small collection of 60-75w mods so for the historical record, I want to mention the funkiest one.
It certainly isn't the quality the OP requested, then again we've got Eleaf in the mix, but... there's also the now outdated Smowell 65W. A dual parallel 65 watter. I'll give you all a second to get over the "What the...".
Yes... a paltry 65w dual 18650. Parallel. But it gets better.
Even dual parallel, it suffers from its' chip's "power reduction" feature as the batts fade. Same chip as the SMOK 50w & 65w. WTF.
And it has the old style screwed down battery cover. Damn. I just dropped a pair of 3000 mAh HG2s in and buttoned it up, but being parallel, 15A cells would be more than enough. Higher mAh too.
I've just been too lazy to hunt down a pair.
Of course, with it's thick aluminum case... if all else fails, it makes for a handy bludgeon.
It's funky as all get out, does what it says it should and was $20. What the hell.
I'm getting a small collection of 60-75w mods so for the historical record, I want to mention the funkiest one.
It certainly isn't the quality the OP requested, then again we've got Eleaf in the mix, but... there's also the now outdated Smowell 65W. A dual parallel 65 watter. I'll give you all a second to get over the "What the...".
Yes... a paltry 65w dual 18650. Parallel. But it gets better.
Even dual parallel, it suffers from its' chip's "power reduction" feature as the batts fade. Same chip as the SMOK 50w & 65w. WTF.
And it has the old style screwed down battery cover. Damn. I just dropped a pair of 3000 mAh HG2s in and buttoned it up, but being parallel, 15A cells would be more than enough. Higher mAh too.
I've just been too lazy to hunt down a pair.
Of course, with it's thick aluminum case... if all else fails, it makes for a handy bludgeon.
It's funky as all get out, does what it says it should and was $20. What the hell.
Hi, switch to Lipo's? Nooooooo !!
I have too many 18650's...I got a really good deal on some of them, VTC5, HG2 and 25r's. am not leaving them on the shelf for lipo's. When I bough my first mod I thought 20w was enough. Then I bought 40w, then 50w then 75w. So onwards and upwards. Removable lipos is still not onvincing for me. I dont need 200w. But its nice to have. I ordered the iStick100w to use daily as it has dual battery, should last longer. I ordered the SW because its a really nice looking mod and had great reviews. Its solid built. Gotta be careful with it as it has a glass housing. Only thing I am missing now is a good TC mod. One good mod would be nice to have. My VF clone has TC. Once I get some Ni200 wire I will see what the fuss is about. Kanthal is good enough for me for now. X cube 2 looks fantastic. Tons of features !!! Worth a look see....
Ni200 is a ..... to work with. And some people have said there's health concerns with it. I hate trying to make the spaced coils. I'm gonna get ti. And when I get an xcube I will try stainless tc. If you got the bread and want good tc then get an sx mini. I might eventually. Snow wolf will do tc right? But ive heard it doesnt work so great on it
With a coil made from jumper cables and a t-shirt for the wick.
Of course the t-shirt is cotton.
Good catch. What little I know about that one is the dodgy TC.
Maybe everyone was trying to forget.
Good catch. What little I know about that one is the dodgy TC.
Maybe everyone was trying to forget.
LOL~ yeah, just treat it as a normal wattage box mod. That TC is a crap. Ops, btw, Mech mod option is not a problem thou
Have since read that batteries in series will give more efficiency to power but both dual and series will give almost equal life. So my choice in mods has just got a lot LARGER !!
I love stainless steel coils. And you don't have to have a temp control mod to use ss. You can also use ti mode if you want for ss. When building with ss though don't make the coils glow like you do with kanthal
Why is it bad to make stainless glow?I love stainless steel coils. And you don't have to have a temp control mod to use ss. You can also use ti mode if you want for ss. When building with ss though don't make the coils glow like you do with kanthal
In a regulated mod, most are series because the buck chip is more efficient than the boost chip(as was previously mentioned in the thread)
When they are going through a buck, boost, or buck/boost chip, series and parallel becomes mostly irrelevant.
Let's assume we have a pair of batteries that are 3.7v, 2500mah, and rated for 20 amps continuous discharge. If we wire them in series, they will act as a single unit capable of providing 7.4v with a capacity of 2500mah. When we calculate the overall watt hours, you get 18.5 watt hours. If we wire them in parallel, they will act as a single unit capable of providing 3.7v with a capacity of 5000mah. When we calculate the overall watt hours, we get 18.5 watt hours. As you can see, in either configuration, you have 18.5 watt hours.
The advantages of parallel are that the unit will work if only one battery is inserted, but the battery will have its standard amp limit(20 amps). As soon as you add another to it, it will be capable of delivering twice as many amps(40 amps), as there are twice as many batteries. If you added a third, you could go to 60 amps. You could keep adding all the batteries you want, but it will only increase the amp limit, not the voltage.
With the batteries in series, it will not fire if only one battery is inserted. When both batteries are inserted, they will provide 7.4 volts at 20 amps. If you added a third battery in series, it would become 11.1 volts at 20 amps. Each additional battery would continue to add to the volts, but not to the amps.
When you do the math, 3.7 volts at 40 amps is 148 watts. 7.4 volts at 20 amps is 148 watts. Either configuration will result in the same maximum wattage.
NOTE: This does not take into account the fact that 3.7v is the nominal voltage, and a battery can actually begin giving 20 amps at the 4.2v it is at when fully charged. The 3.7v is just the nominal voltage. The same as the battery could give 20 amps at a full charge of 4.2 volts(84 watts per cell before any voltage sag under load), it can still only give 20 amps at 3.2 volts when it is nearly drained(64 watts per cell before any voltage sag under load). I am just using 3.7 volts as that is what the nominal voltage is typically considered.
In the end, you will get slightly more run time from a mod wired in series simply due to the added efficiency of a buck controller over a boost controller, but even that may not be enough to notice. Personally, I would just go with a mod that is series, as there are far more options.
Hopefully this explains the series/parallel idea in a somewhat easy to understand way.
Also, if you plan on running any regulated dual battery mod(series or parallel) at over 110-120 watts, please use 30 amp batteries to be sure you do not exceed the cell's rating. While the batteries can give 148 watts at the nominal voltage, they would only be able to deliver 128 watts when they are at the 3.2 volt cutoff voltage most mods use. Using them at 120 watts leaves nearly no safety margin when they are nearly drained, and anything over 128 watts puts them outside of their rated amp limit. When the mod is saying that it is providing 120 watts to the atomizer, it is not counting in the overhead the mod itself needs to operate the electronics inside. Assuming it only takes 8 watts, running your atomizer at 120 watts would be at the very edge of the limit for a drained 20 amp battery.
When they are going through a buck, boost, or buck/boost chip, series and parallel becomes mostly irrelevant.
Let's assume we have a pair of batteries that are 3.7v, 2500mah, and rated for 20 amps continuous discharge. If we wire them in series, they will act as a single unit capable of providing 7.4v with a capacity of 2500mah. When we calculate the overall watt hours, you get 18.5 watt hours. If we wire them in parallel, they will act as a single unit capable of providing 3.7v with a capacity of 5000mah. When we calculate the overall watt hours, we get 18.5 watt hours. As you can see, in either configuration, you have 18.5 watt hours.
The advantages of parallel are that the unit will work if only one battery is inserted, but the battery will have its standard amp limit(20 amps). As soon as you add another to it, it will be capable of delivering twice as many amps(40 amps), as there are twice as many batteries. If you added a third, you could go to 60 amps. You could keep adding all the batteries you want, but it will only increase the amp limit, not the voltage.
With the batteries in series, it will not fire if only one battery is inserted. When both batteries are inserted, they will provide 7.4 volts at 20 amps. If you added a third battery in series, it would become 11.1 volts at 20 amps. Each additional battery would continue to add to the volts, but not to the amps.
When you do the math, 3.7 volts at 40 amps is 148 watts. 7.4 volts at 20 amps is 148 watts. Either configuration will result in the same maximum wattage.
NOTE: This does not take into account the fact that 3.7v is the nominal voltage, and a battery can actually begin giving 20 amps at the 4.2v it is at when fully charged. The 3.7v is just the nominal voltage. The same as the battery could give 20 amps at a full charge of 4.2 volts(84 watts per cell before any voltage sag under load), it can still only give 20 amps at 3.2 volts when it is nearly drained(64 watts per cell before any voltage sag under load). I am just using 3.7 volts as that is what the nominal voltage is typically considered.
In the end, you will get slightly more run time from a mod wired in series simply due to the added efficiency of a buck controller over a boost controller, but even that may not be enough to notice. Personally, I would just go with a mod that is series, as there are far more options.
Hopefully this explains the series/parallel idea in a somewhat easy to understand way.
Also, if you plan on running any regulated dual battery mod(series or parallel) at over 110-120 watts, please use 30 amp batteries to be sure you do not exceed the cell's rating. While the batteries can give 148 watts at the nominal voltage, they would only be able to deliver 128 watts when they are at the 3.2 volt cutoff voltage most mods use. Using them at 120 watts leaves nearly no safety margin when they are nearly drained, and anything over 128 watts puts them outside of their rated amp limit. When the mod is saying that it is providing 120 watts to the atomizer, it is not counting in the overhead the mod itself needs to operate the electronics inside. Assuming it only takes 8 watts, running your atomizer at 120 watts would be at the very edge of the limit for a drained 20 amp battery.
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