Looking for MULTIPLE advises... and some tech stuff plz... :D

[GostDog]

Hi guys! first off i want to say that im new to this forum so if my post isnt at the right spot... let me know!!


So, vaping for me was fine for a while but now it seems I cant taste the flavor anymore and its arch to my throat.

Im running 70/30 stuff, 5mg of nic.

The current setup it a Itaste CLK1280 + Nautilus mini 1.8Ohm. (coils are changed every now and then quite often...)

Im a lung direct inhaler. but from time to time use mouth to lung... as I feel I can taste more...


Right now I run Max air flow or +1 restriction @ 8.88W sometimes @ 13W



Now... I just bough a couple goodies that I will try in the next 2 weeks and wanted your advise....

Sigelei 30W mod
Ifest IMR 3100mah 20A 18650
Kayfun 3.1 RBA
Kraken RBA
Helio RDA
Tugboat RDA

Some 70/30 juice in 6mg nic
some 87-90% VG 6mg nic

Kanthal A1 28-30-32ga


-------------------------------

1:... the nautilus mini... Ill build a coil myself instead of using the OEM one... now for a sweet tastefull vape should I go warmer or cooler ??? I would have a tendency to say hotter??? at the end would you guys recommend using lower Ohm or higher?? How about ga used with Kanthal A1 ??

Im kinda missing some basic know how... some explanation that compare low Ohm with small ga and big ga vs high ohm with low ga and high ga...


2:... RDA... why are they used typically? for a better taste compared to RBA or bigger clouds?

3: as a lung direct inhaler... that is looking for a dense tastefull vape.. without or close to no throat hit... giving the material I have... why and how would someone choose running single coil... dual... quad series... quad parallel...

4: RDA and RBA rebuildable... so how often do you guys change coils??? what are the sign its time to dryfire or change them? how about the wick... when and how often? Do you guys ''mix'' juice when you want to switch of just change the wick or just all personal preff?

5: Any comments on the material I just bough???

6: Wattage... how to know what is the optimal wattage knowing what im looking for is tasteful sweet mellow no throat hit.. and im taking long puff... and sometimes only giving it maybe 1-2sec in between hits for 4-5 in a row... why go high W compared to low W ???

7: PG/VG... describing the type of vape I was looking for... I was under the impression the kind of vape I was looking would be acheived using a very high VG juice... however taste is not there right??? Can someone explain me how using Watt and Ohm and wire ga and coil setup... how I would obtain a vape that looks like a high VG... but taste low VG... all that either using high VG or 70/30...



Now I know im asking allot... I know E-cig is all about doing search and all that... im just looking for an experienced someone to guide me there... because the first 1-2 weeks of vaping were awesome I quite smoking within 1day... I was at a pack a day... and now... I feel like I'm not enjoying it anymore... and want to achieve ''my best vape'' and stop smoking for ever... just need some guide line before giving up on the vape (winch I dont want to).


I will fill this part of my post soon as I get more info to those question:


Tank: Nautilus mini (home maid rebuildable coil)
Coil setup:
Wire ga:
Ohm per coil:
total ohm:

Tank: Kayfun 3.1 RBA
Coil setup:
Wire ga:
Ohm per coil:
total ohm:

Tank: Kraken RBA
Coil setup:
Wire ga:
Ohm per coil:
total ohm:

Tank: Helio RDA
Coil setup:
Wire ga:
Ohm per coil:
total ohm:

Tank: Tugboat RDA
Coil setup:
Wire ga:
Ohm per coil:
total ohm:

 

[Baditude]

The questions about gauge of wire used, why use rebuildable drippers, number of coils used, etc, etc, is all based on "personal preference" gained from personal experience. Just as not everyone likes the same juice flavors, not everyone is going to agree on the gauge of wire used, whether to use a drip atomizer or a tank atomizer, on the number of coils they prefer, etc, etc.

I will comment on the battery that you chose (Ifest IMR 3100mah 20A 18650). Not all Efest batteries are as they are advertised. Efest often uses other manufacturer's cells and re-brands them, and often exaggerates the specifications of those batteries. Your particular battery is NOT a 20 amp battery, but a re-branded Panasonic NCR18650BE, which has ONLY 4 amps continuous discharge rate. This is totally inadequate for your high wattage circuit board, which requires an IMR battery with a minimum 12 amps continuous discharge rating.

Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised


You need to choose among the 20 - 30 amp batteries listed in the below link:

Battery Basics for Mods

 

[GostDog]

oh!!!! well thanks for catching that!!! 4amp cont... thats way too low!!!

damn!!!... ill have to wait an extra week before to use my mod

thanks!!!


Keep it up with the comments guys

 

[AndriaD]

Also -- it looks like you're asking about how the wire gauge corresponds to resistance -- the lower numbers are fatter, and lower resistance -- the higher numbers are thinner, and higher resistance. *Most* folks seem to use 28 to 30 gauge wire, though a lot of the sub-ohm vapers prefer lower resistance obviously, and may use 24 to 26 gauge wire. For the very small tanks, T3S, protank, hypertank (ok not a small tank but uses a small coil in a small space) you're kinda stuck with 30-32 gauge, just for the small space the coil has to fit into.

I personally use 29ga, 7 wraps around 7/64, which gives me about 1.8 ohms -- I use it in a kayfun lite plus clone, and it's great (to me!).

But if you need more info about batteries, definitely listen up to Baditude, and read his blogs about that subject -- also JeremyR has been a real fount of knowledge about batteries, to me.

Andria

 

[eyerhere]

Sounds to me like you ordered a lot of nice toys. Now you need to spend the time you will have waiting for your battery to learn all you need to know to get started. Start with battery safety then ohms law then coil building then battery saftey again! Yea it is that important. You dont need my opinion you will form your own. Experimenting and finding what is best for you is half the fun.
Stay safe and enjoy the ride.

 

[GostDog]

Thank you all for your constructive comments.

That is pretty much what I will do... study study study...


As for low-high ohm... vs ga size... against vape/taste... ill do trial and error I guess.

just 2 thing...

Coils surface... the more the surface... the more the vape or taste??
Now for sure... if I have more surface it would be more Ohm and taking more time to heat up... OR reduce wire ga for lower res right?

Im just trying to find the corolation between ga, coil surface, low or high ohm, more then one coil VS taste and vape qty...

I think I pretty much figured it out... the only one thing that I do not understand the effect is coil inner diameter... what does it changes?! bigger the more surface ?

Thanks

 

[Susan~S]

I don't see an ohm reader on your list. You cannot build a coil without one. You also need a decent charger (not a no-name or one with Fire in it's name).

Battery safety, ohms law and amp limitations are all topics you need to research and learn BEFORE you start rebuilding and operating a mechanical mod.

 

[readeuler]

The inner diameter of the coil plays a big role in how well your wick works.

I started using my Kayfun with 28ga wire, wrapped around a 2mm screwdriver, achieving about 1.3 ohms, compressed coils, all that. It worked great, first build and all, it could easily handle 12+ watts. I heard a "true microcoil" is 1.6mm or smaller, so I wrapped one around a 1.6mm screwdriver.

I personally couldn't get the wick to keep up; it wanted to dry out too much, even at 8watts. Using the same wire gauge and overall resistance,

Smaller inner diameter makes the coil skinnier and wider: there's less room for wick in there, and less room for heat to dissipate. The vape might be a bit warmer, but I found it to give me wicking problems with regular organic cotton (still new to building, might easily be overcame in the future).

With the larger inner diameter, the overall coil is a fatter, and more narrow. The liquid doesn't have as far to travel to the center of the coil, and it has a wider route to make the short travel. I don't think the heat is as condensed with a wider diameter.

The wicking is really critical with an RBA, but less so with a dripper. The Kayfun objected when I made my coils too skinny, but my dripper's never really cared about anything (other than taking a while to heat two 28ga coils, with only 15w).

 

[Baditude]

Thank you all for your constructive comments.

That is pretty much what I will do... study study study...

Lots of important information located here: Batteries, Chargers and Multi-Meters Forum


Some selective information here: Baditude's Blogs

 

[GostDog]

I don't see an ohm reader on your list. You cannot build a coil without one. You also need a decent charger (not a no-name or one with Fire in it's name).

Battery safety, ohms law and amp limitations are all topics you need to research and learn BEFORE you start rebuilding and operating a mechanical mod.

Hi Susan, and thanks for participating.

My ohm meter will be either a Fluke 789 process meter OR my mod itself that as Ohm reading.

I work with Ohm law pretty much everyday so I should be good on that side.

Amp limitation... I pretty much figured the following :
With my mod... Im maxed out at .65Ohm 50W 5.7X Volt 8.77Amp... that why I selected the 20A draw battery... but then again... I didnt know those were not as advertized...


BTW, the mod I selected is a regulated mod not a mech one.

thx again.

As for charger... this is what I selected:
http://coolvape.ca/collections/accessory/products/efest-bio-v2-intelligent-charger

I would of selected another brand now that I know what I know about Efest... but it seems legit...

The inner diameter of the coil plays a big role in how well your wick works.

I started using my Kayfun with 28ga wire, wrapped around a 2mm screwdriver, achieving about 1.3 ohms, compressed coils, all that. It worked great, first build and all, it could easily handle 12+ watts. I heard a "true microcoil" is 1.6mm or smaller, so I wrapped one around a 1.6mm screwdriver.

I personally couldn't get the wick to keep up; it wanted to dry out too much, even at 8watts. Using the same wire gauge and overall resistance,

Smaller inner diameter makes the coil skinnier and wider: there's less room for wick in there, and less room for heat to dissipate. The vape might be a bit warmer, but I found it to give me wicking problems with regular organic cotton (still new to building, might easily be overcame in the future).

With the larger inner diameter, the overall coil is a fatter, and more narrow. The liquid doesn't have as far to travel to the center of the coil, and it has a wider route to make the short travel. I don't think the heat is as condensed with a wider diameter.

The wicking is really critical with an RBA, but less so with a dripper. The Kayfun objected when I made my coils too skinny, but my dripper's never really cared about anything (other than taking a while to heat two 28ga coils, with only 15w).

Awsome!!!! this is great info right there!!!
It all make sense now...!!! just FYI, i heard Japanese cotton have some awesome wicking attribute... you might want to try it out...
I think it costed me 33$ for 80 pads...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...tems/560391-japanese-organic-cotton-pads.html

Lots of important information located here: Batteries, Chargers and Multi-Meters Forum


Some selective information here: Baditude's Blogs

Thanks I will for sure have a blast reading on your blog!!!

 

[AndriaD]

I think I pretty much figured it out... the only one thing that I do not understand the effect is coil inner diameter... what does it changes?! bigger the more surface ?

Thanks

I don't see an ohm reader on your list. You cannot build a coil without one. You also need a decent charger (not a no-name or one with Fire in it's name).

If you use Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators you will see how the inner diameter affects the coil -- basically, the larger the inner diameter, the fewer wraps you will need to hit a target resistance.

And what Susan said is absolutely without question the best advice given so far -- you REQUIRE a REAL ohm meter before you start building coils, and if you have a mod with removable batteries, you REQUIRE a charger that won't set your house on fire, which means don't buy one with "fire" in its name. My first one was a Nitecore i4 (4 bay) Intellicharger, which is reliable but less expensive than some of the top of the line ones. My 2nd one, which I got because I needed a digital readout to know exactly the charge in batteries intended for a mech mod, is an Efest Luc v2 (2 bay). That Efest also has a really cool feature; you can change its setting from .5 amp (500 mA) to 1 amp, for charging 18650s or larger batteries, and that charges those big ones REALLY fast. I got mine on Ebay for $25; it even comes with a car-charging adapter.

Andria

 

[GostDog]

If you use Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators you will see how the inner diameter affects the coil -- basically, the larger the inner diameter, the fewer wraps you will need to hit a target resistance.

And what Susan said is absolutely without question the best advice given so far -- you REQUIRE a REAL ohm meter before you start building coils, and if you have a mod with removable batteries, you REQUIRE a charger that won't set your house on fire, which means don't buy one with "fire" in its name. My first one was a Nitecore i4 (4 bay) Intellicharger, which is reliable but less expensive than some of the top of the line ones. My 2nd one, which I got because I needed a digital readout to know exactly the charge in batteries intended for a mech mod, is an Efest Luc v2 (2 bay). That Efest also has a really cool feature; you can change its setting from .5 amp (500 mA) to 1 amp, for charging 18650s or larger batteries, and that charges those big ones REALLY fast. I got mine on Ebay for $25; it even comes with a car-charging adapter.

Andria

That I understand, as I said im using a process meter for Ohm meter... should be way more then capable.

Fluke 789 ProcessMeter



As for the inner diameter of coils, yeah I figures that for sure. I didn't think about wicking too which would make a difference for sure especially when playing with viscosity or juice.

I guess what I was more waiting on as far as explanation are concern would be flavor wise and vape density wise...
If doing lets say a 1 Ohm build... what would be the affect on vape taste and density if reducing or going bigger inner diameter.

Keeping in mind that we would be at the same Watt power on both setup and taking a long 3-7sec draw.


As for the Efest charger I understand you are using it right?
Have you notice the battery performance changing when charging at high rate?? (assuming you are charging at high rate)

So my choice of charger is not bad even if its an Efest??


Thanks once again to everyone!!!

 

[AndriaD]

That I understand, as I said im using a process meter for Ohm meter... should be way more then capable.

Fluke 789 ProcessMeter



As for the inner diameter of coils, yeah I figures that for sure. I didn't think about wicking too which would make a difference for sure especially when playing with viscosity or juice.

I guess what I was more waiting on as far as explanation are concern would be flavor wise and vape density wise...
If doing lets say a 1 Ohm build... what would be the affect on vape taste and density if reducing or going bigger inner diameter.

Keeping in mind that we would be at the same Watt power on both setup and taking a long 3-7sec draw.


As for the Efest charger I understand you are using it right?
Have you notice the battery performance changing when charging at high rate?? (assuming you are charging at high rate)

So my choice of charger is not bad even if its an Efest??


Thanks once again to everyone!!!

I don't notice any difference in my 18650s charged fast, from when I used to charge them on the Nitecore.

I started making my coils fatter, usually on a 7/64 bit, when I was having difficulties with cotton as a wick; because the coil is so fat, not only is it much easier to get wicking into it, but it's much easier for the wick to work correctly and not "plug" up and give a dry hit. Now, I use rayon, and since rayon actually shrinks when saturated rather than expanding as cotton does, this means I need a pretty fat chunk of rayon to start with -- but, even with rayon's properties (shrinking) and the fat-ness of the coil, it's still possible to get a dry hit, as I proved yesterday with a really fat wick -- and a dry hit from rayon tastes even worse than one from cotton, if you can even imagine that. However the fix with rayon is easier -- because it tends to shrink when saturated, I didn't need to remove that wick and start over; I just rinsed it with water, blotted it, and re-primed with my ejuice; because of the shrinkage when it's fully saturated, the wick then worked just fine.

A lot of people use much smaller bits for their wicks, even 5/64 or 1/16, with no ill effects, but I always seem to have a lot of dry hit issues if my coil is too skinny.

That's really all I can tell you about the taste/hit, re: the fatness or skinniness of the coil. Coil builders with more experience may be able to contribute more.

Andria