Looking into mechs

[NathanielFT]

Basically start at 1.5ohm, work your way down if you want more flavour and clouds, but read up how to sub-ohm safely if you want to start getting below 0.8ohm, but all it comes down to is having a high quality battery such as 35A purple efests, Sony VTC4/5's etc. A high quality battery from a reputable vendor is a necessity, if you want cloned mods, kool, cloned attys fine, but do not cut corners with the battery. protected circuit is good, 20A+ IMR batteries better, 30A+ IMR batteries the best

Resistance above 1.5ohm you'll find the vape starts to get a bit weak and you will lose the flavour, vapour and throat hit. 1.5ohm is a good spot, 1.2ohm is my own personal favourite, and 0.8ohm is even better when it works (suicide bunny mothers milk at 0.8ohms is like drinking strawberry milkshake), but that low resistance will make some juices taste like burnt crap (such as goose juice).

 

[edyle]

Basically start at 1.5ohm, work your way down if you want more flavour and clouds, but read up how to sub-ohm safely if you want to start getting below 0.8ohm, but all it comes down to is having a high quality battery such as 35A purple efests, Sony VTC4/5's etc. A high quality battery from a reputable vendor is a necessity, if you want cloned mods, kool, cloned attys fine, but do not cut corners with the battery. protected circuit is good, 20A+ IMR batteries better, 30A+ IMR batteries the best

Resistance above 1.5ohm you'll find the vape starts to get a bit weak and you will lose the flavour, vapour and throat hit. 1.5ohm is a good spot, 1.2ohm is my own personal favourite, and 0.8ohm is even better when it works (suicide bunny mothers milk at 0.8ohms is like drinking strawberry milkshake), but that low resistance will make some juices taste like burnt crap (such as goose juice).

That's at 28 gauge, right?

 

[txfordguy]

Thanks for all the replies! I think im gonna go for it. Maybe get a kayfun clone while I'm at it. (Can't afford real deal right now...)

 

[NathanielFT]

That's at 28 gauge, right?

Nope kanger stock coils cba with rba's anymore, the kanger 0.8ohm coils are defo good enough for me


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[mrclean77]

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but regarding noticing your battery starting to lose the charge --- is it fairly noticeable BEFORE it starts getting into unsafe territory? Like you lose a lot of cloud and have to pull a LOT harder?

TIA

 

[poconojo]

So I'm looking at getting started in the mech mod world. I have a fairly good understanding of how they work, but I am caught up with something. Obviously these aren't VW/VV, so is it basically trial and error on what resistance I like on the mech? Is there a certain resistance I should stick around to get the best performance?

By the way, I'm looking at getting the Magneto to start out with. It's pretty affordable, and if I turn out not to be a huge fan of mechs I'm not out that much money.

When you decide to get into mechanical mods and rebuilding atomizers, make sure you understand ohms law. Make sure you have an ohm reader, a multimeter, good batteries (I recommend AW (safe chemistry)). If you sub ohm make sure you don't use anything smaller than an 18650 battery. Watch plenty of you tube videos to see how the more experienced vapors build their coils. Just do your research and it will be an enjoyable hobby.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

A kayfun clone paired with stingray clone would be a great starter set up. You could start just above 1 ohm and be more than satisfied I think. Like others have said, as you gain experience you can work your way safely down. First, get a mech up and running and get some builds under your belt. It won't take long.

 

[soulcatcher]

Ok, thanks Soulcatcher yea that makes perfect sense. Right now I'm running EH IMR 18650 in my Kamry 101 and it runs great, do you recommend a different battery thats maybe a little better then what I have at the moment? Thanks again

I don't have any first hand experience w/ that specific brand of battery, but if it is the 30amp / 2100mah from EH, then from what I can tell it is a re-branded Sony VTC4 (which is also re-branded as Efest IMR 18650 30amp 2100mah) which is a great battery. The 30amp batteries are safe down to app .18ohms @ 23.33amps. At 0.15ohms you would be at 28amps w/ a fully charged battery so you would be under the max amp draw, but it would be close. To be safe I myself would keep it at 0.18ohms or higher.

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but regarding noticing your battery starting to lose the charge --- is it fairly noticeable BEFORE it starts getting into unsafe territory? Like you lose a lot of cloud and have to pull a LOT harder?

TIA

Fairly quickly I began to notice that when the battery was fresh off the charger my atty would hit hard, really hard and would need to be sure that the coil/wick was wet or I would get a slight burnt taste. After maybe 25-45min of regular use then I could easily tell that the vapor was mellowing out ie. not as hot and more of a crisp full flavor vs a very slight burnt flavor. Then after a few hours of use by the end of the day I can easily tell that the vapor has cooled down some more in addition to overall vapor production which results in me taking longer pulls to attain similar results as when the battery was near full charge. I almost never measure the charge on my batteries as I can clearly tell when they are getting low. I use a Nightcore i2 charger and when I put my batteries in they always show as half-charged via the status lights never fully discharged. I would say that it is a pretty quick learning curve. Simply put, if my device isn't hitting like it normally does at full charge, then I just put that battery in the charger and replace it w/ a fresh one.

 

[txfordguy]

I just saw an hcigar nemesis clone on sale for $30. Anybody have experience with these?

 

[soulcatcher]

A kayfun clone paired with stingray clone would be a great starter set up. You could start just above 1 ohm and be more than satisfied I think. Like others have said, as you gain experience you can work your way safely down. First, get a mech up and running and get some builds under your belt. It won't take long.

This is the same set-up I am using; Stingray FT clone w/ an HCigar Kayfun Lite Plus v2. The flavor is just amazing, and vapor production is good (running 'double-barrel' 30ga x 9 wraps 1.1mm ID (a big paperclip) at .7ohms), not as much vapor as a Kraken or RDA but the flavor is better IMO.

I also have a Caravela clone (Shenmao) but it is longer then the Stingray, has a spring switch vs magnetic, and the locking ring is very small and harder to grab and lock vs the stingray which is a better design and much easier to manipulate. The Stingray is just VERY well designed.

In my experience RDA's are good when you are at home or simply not on the go as dripping can be tedious. Genesis style RBA's work well when you get it right. There is a big learning curve in getting the right amount of wick, as dry hits can be common and problematic while you are learning. Also, they are an open system w/ open wick holes to the top-deck which means that they will leak if left sitting any direction except straight up; they can work while out on the go, but leaking can def be an issue. The Kayfun is a grat design as it gives great flavor and tends to have less wicking issues and less leaking issues which is a BIG plus for daily 'out-and-about' excursions.

That is my experience anyhow. Just another data-point YMMV.

 

[txfordguy]

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the hcigar nemesis. Cant wait!

 

[NathanielFT]

Not trying to beat a dead horse, but regarding noticing your battery starting to lose the charge --- is it fairly noticeable BEFORE it starts getting into unsafe territory? Like you lose a lot of cloud and have to pull a LOT harder?

TIA

As noticeable as your old cassette player playing songs in slow motion as the battery dies. The flavour will drop, the vapour will be much thinner, jus a weak vape overall


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