Mad at all of my toppers.

[Nodnerb]

What is everyone having success with these days? I'd been a single coil carto tank guy for over a year. They're not perfect that's for sure. Tries out an aspire bdc. While the vape was good, I was having a horrible failure rate right out of the box. 2-3 heads would be dead right out of the box. Have two pro tanks. Finding I get flooding within a day on most heads. Sometimes it's just dripping out of the 510 connection. Technically, I am using them in a hypertank which is just a bigger 5ml tank built for the protank heads. Have an iclear 30 which just always tasted crappy and didn't get a great vape off it. Have only tried the head that came with it with my vtr kit though.

Not too keen on wrapping my own coils. I love the simplicity of replacing a head, just not the reliability.

So what is everyone having success with? I have a provari on the way to me, but right now I am using mostly my vtr, sid and sigelei zmax. I usually use 50/50 to 30vg 70 pg juice. I need a tank that holds at least 5 ml ideally so it lasts a whole work day. But if not I'd fill at work for something that works. I use anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 ohms and never more than 6.5 watts on any of it.

Thanks.

 

[Ca Ike]

I've been using protanks/minis and a smoketech carto tank. I've never had the leaking issues on any of my protanks except when I forget to tighten the coil all the way. I do have some aerotanks coming this week sometime as well to try. The aspire tank I loved for the capacity and the vape when it worked but hated having all the DOA coils at $3 avg a coil. My protanks have been the most reliable clearo I have had yet. I do have an Iclear 30S (supposed to be better than the 30)but have never used it. Give your protanks another shot but take a bit of time to check the heads before using them. Pretty much all leaking issues I have fixed for people I know have been due to the coils rotating inside (from cranking the tank too hard on the batt) the base pulling the wick from the slot or the vent cap not being on all the way. Ocasionally a flavor wick was missing but that was rare. They are also easy to rewick after a cleaning and tend to work better after a rewick.

 

[serenity21899]

On my VTRs I use either a ProTank2 or an IBTanked 19mm XL carto tank. No issues with the ProTank. On my ProVari in my carto tank I have a Sophia, which is a rebuildable.

 

[Rat2chat2]

I have tried many atomizers but I just keep going back to the ProTank and the ProTank Minis. I get the clones from Fasttech and have been using them for around 9 months and love them. I do rebuild because it is so easy and cheap but you can even buy replacements or even coils at Fasttech and do it yourself. I take off the flavor wick and I never have any flooding issues. Good luck to you, I know it can be a bit aggravating.

 

[Credo]

If you don't mind tossing a couple bucks at a new carto at least once a week (sometimes less, sometimes more depending on the liquid being used), try a Carto tank.

For off the shelf clearo type tanks: I still like the Vivi Nova Rev 2.5 single top coil with low heat. I had picked up several of them back when it was about the only choice out there, and still use them in my rotation to this day, especially when I'm putting together a rig intended to be light, go easy on liquid consumption, and extend battery life. They're 'ok' stock out of the box but I've stuck with them mainly because I can rewind them easily (and my custom coils are much better than the stock ones) and save $$$. Note, I do like the top coil stuff but I choose or tune liquids/flavors to work well with them...alot of people don't like the top coils...so be aware it's much a personal taste thing that you might or might not like with your favorite liquids/flavors. For me the secret to making a 'stock' top coil tank like this work well is to keep the heat low, go with a slightly higher nic level than I would in a bottom coil design, and sometimes go with an extended drip tip (if the flavor is muted on a Vivi Nova, I find that using a long drip tip and upping the heat a tiny bit will bring it right back to life).

To date my favorite all around Tank performance wise is the HCigar KayFun 3.1 1:1 Clone.

The con side of these is that they can cost more up front, are pretty heavy compared to a typical clearo tank, and of course you have to wrap coils for them. Since they work so well, you might find yourself going through a little more liquid as well (but even that can be tuned by making a low heat, small wick set-up). Also expect that when new out of the box...you'll most likely want to break it down into pieces and give it a really good cleaning before use (I soak mine in cola for an hour or so, then wash the heck out of it with a tooth brush and paste...then season it all good with whatever eliquid I'll be using on first fill using a q-tip).

On the pro side...the air flow is adjustable (Kayfun 3.1, Plus, or Russian models) so they flat out work and can take a wide variety of coil and wick types. These days you can also find that general design in smaller platforms (Closer to Ego or 12/14mm mod sized stuff). They can take simple low heat builds with a tighter draw, or you can really open them up and even do radical sub-ohm builds in them. Winding a coil takes a few minutes, but it's not difficult at all and should save dozens of dollars a month. One of the easiest types to master is the micro coil. You just wind around 14 wraps of AWG 28 Kanthal on a 1/16 drill bit (for cotton, or 5/16 if you'd rather go with a 2mm silica) and pop it in...then string some wick through it. It's easy to change out the wick after a few tanks vaped if need be.

All in all...the Kayfun style tanks are worth the sort learning curve and few minutes it takes to throw together a coil and wick to your liking. Where I live leaks have never been a problem for me with these tanks. Unless you live at a high elevation or constantly drive up and down high mountains...or fly alot with your PV...leaking and/or flooding shouldn't be an issue.

If you do need to make pretty radical elevation changes (or constantly move about with pretty extreme environmental temperature changes) all the time with a PV...carto tanks are probably the way to go.

 

[Garemlin]

I always loved the Triton Tanks (Kanger T2 clone) on my Volt and Halo batteries. Also really liked the Aspire BDC Mini Nova and ET. Also tried the iClear 16, T3, T3 mini and didn;t care for them. The T3 mini was good sometimes but were hit and miss. The full size t3 was a gusher.

Since picking up my MVP2 I have tried the iclear 30, 30S, Vision Mini and Vivi Nova top coil, Aspire Mini and Vivi Nova BDC. I just received an order of Kanger T2 and remember why I love them so much. Long wicks, lots of flavor and warm vapor. Still like the BDC Mini Nova as a close second. But I am getting rid of the rest. They just don't cut it for me. The 3.5ml tanks just give a muted and watery flavor no matter what juice I use. The only ones I have left on my "things to try" are the Aspire Nautilus, Kumiho i-Tank and the Aspire ET BDC. and Vision VT. But my go-to will always be the T2. Heads are cheap and last well over a month and get even more use after a good cleaning.

I have tossed around the idea of a carto/tank but I just prefer the buy, install and vape approach.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

I like the protank II. The primary reason is that replacement heads are cheap and easy to find. Here are some tips:

1. Get the aero base that allows you to adjust airflow.

2. Replace the flavor wicks daily. The stock flavor wicks are garbage. You can pick up some kanthal for pennies and just cut new wicks. Add just enough flavor wicking to keep the tank from flooding. If you're adventurous you can rebuild the coil but I find that more trouble than it's worth.

3. To clean the heads, remove the flavor wicking, soak in everclear, dry burn at super low wattage, clear any and all ash, resoak the head in everclear, dry and add flavor wicking. I've gotten a lot of life out of doing this at the end of every tank. Just keep a couple heads rotating through.

4. Vape on low wattage/voltage and keep your tank on the fuller side to avoid burning the wicks.

If this sounds like too much hassle, it might be time for a IBtanked carto tank (more money but less hassle) or a kayfun (if you don't mind rebuilding). Heck, I would say that most folks that have a desk job could probably be happy with a simple RDA.