Making your Protank / Tumbler (Any BCC) coil last for months

[names]

I've done this with Nova coils, too, but instead of tossing out these BCC coils, I rebuild them with SS mesh. After my vaper friends use them for 6-10 days, they start to collect too much carbon and taste burnt. Once burnt, we either dry burn them with a torch lighter (most effective) or let them soak in (rum/vodka/whiskey) for a day or so to dissolve most of the gunk on the heating element (coil).

There are good youtube videos on how to build SS wicks, so I won't belabor that. Here's the parts list for rebuilding BCC coils:
- 1.75" x 0.375" (45mm x 10mm) of #400 stainless steel mesh
- 2" (50mm) of 30ga Kanthal or Nickel-Chromium resistance wire

First, roll the mesh tightly, but it's OK to have it hollow, as fluid won't leak as a result

Second, oxidize the wick (to prevent shorting) by heating it with a torch (hold it with pliers) and then dousing it in water. Repeat a couple times.

Then, make a coil with the resistance wire on a round toothpick with 5-6 wraps

Finally, push the mesh wick through the coil. It should be snug, not too loose in the coil. If it's too tight to thread through, you need a tighter coil or bigger toothpick.

When you test, you may have a sub-ohm coil from shorting. What I usually do is season the coil by putting some VG or e-juice on the wick/coil (out of the tank) and then firing it on an cheap battery / MOD that doesn't care about low loads. Once you season the wick, the short-circuit through the SS wick should be gone, and the coil back up to 1.5 - 2.0 ohms.

So far, these are indestructible. Remove the silicone (rubber) seals / plugs from your coil assembly and you can dry burn these back to new. Both the 30ga wire will take all the fire you can throw at them, and just repeat the oxidizing / juice seasoning and you've got a fresh coil with fresh flavor.

 

[happydave]

interesting, i will try that next time i rebuild.

 

[p0rnst4r]

Thanks for sharing

 

[zazzlefrazz]

I've watched videos on SS wicks and it interests me due to the fibres of silica breaking off. Do you find that the juice has any metal taste or adverse effects from the SS? Also how do they not flood ?

 

[abstractcousin]

cool! ill show this to my friend who likes the protank style clearos on his vamo

 

[madqatter]

And more recently, this.

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

It is high time that Kanger up their game with regard to their coils. They have a terrific product but the Achilles Heel is, without question, the coils. Good post, well done.

 

[dice57]

Was going to try this a month ago, but then the Russian arrived. lol. That's what's so great about this forum, always something to do. I've been busy making dual micro coil vertical mounted builds for the Russian and Term-C rba's. Now I guess I should play with my genesis rba. Always something to do.

Good job on getting the PT an overhaul.

 

[Enoch777]

400? Interesting. According to this guide the 400 is too thin and people were reporting leaking. The OP stressed several times to use 500 SS.

I've been planning on trying this but am very happy with my RDA at the moment. Your positive results make me want to try though!

I've watched videos on SS wicks and it interests me due to the fibres of silica breaking off. Do you find that the juice has any metal taste or adverse effects from the SS? Also how do they not flood ?

Yes! Worst thing about silica. I think maybe some people don't have enough macro vision to notice it, but man, I see it and that crap gets everywhere. When I handle fresh/untorched silica I handle it like it's caustic. Rubber gloves and tissues to prevent skin contact rofl. I much prefer Ekowool, which doesn't seem to have this problem nearly as much as regular silica. But it has prompted me to look into alternate wicks.

If you take a look at the guide I posted, the OP was asked the same question and reported no metal taste at all. He seems to have good experience using SS mesh as well. Very particular about good oxidation, tight rolls, and getting a very snug fit into the Protank heads for best results.

 

[names]

And more recently, this.[/URL]

Great video. Though the hollow center is not necessary.

zazzlefrazz, the reason we did this is because silica fibers look mighty dangerous. Flooding is caused by gaps larger than the surface tension will allow, so as long as the mesh is fairly tight to the channel in the replaceable metal bit, you won't get leakage. Sometimes they do leak down the 510 / ego connector, but we just re-form the mesh to be more square between the bottom and rubber cap.

The hole through the center might guarantee better wicking, and you can use less SS mesh. If sealed properly, the Kanger tank should regularly have neutral to negative pressure when vaping. If you let them sit for hours, though, they may leak. Always keep a BCC on its side or inverted when not in use.

 

[names]

Do you find that the juice has any metal taste or adverse effects from the SS?

The flavor is better than silica, they say, and more consistent for longer. (I don't vape) The most foul flavor (and smell) comes from the cheap rubber plug in the bottom of the Kanger coils. I see some on Fasttech are more clear silicon than white rubber. We need to order some and see if they are less likely to give off that foul rubber taste and smell.