Mark Bugs Titanium Wizard Help

[Cloud_Generator]

I just purchased this mod and I guess I don't know how to use it properly or I if I am not using the right tank.
Just a little bit of info on the mod, it is the 18490 model, I am using AW IMR 18490 3.7v 1100mah batteries and I am using a nautilus mini with a 1.8 ohm coil.
With this tank and coil on my D2 I get good warmish vapor and good flavor when it is set on 13.5 watts. When I put the tank on the wizard I get some vapor that is very cool and no flavor.
This is my first mod of this kind. I have a xcube2, ipv d2, and an aspire cf sub ohm mod. and about 8 different tanks.
I don't know the limitations of the wizard and I could not find any info on this site that helps me.
So I am hoping that someone can give me some pointers on how to get the most out of the Wizard because I really like everything about the mod except how it vapes and that is the most important part of its job.
I bought it used from a seller on this site. He included the batteries so I don't know how old they are. He did send them with a full charge and they read 4.13v so I don't think its a problem with the batteries.
Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Cloud_Generator]

I probably should have posted this in Mech Mods. I wasn't sure where to post it.
I would appreciate any help

 

[Layzee Vaper]

Hi Cloud_Generator,

Before using this mod you really need to do some groundwork. Most mechanical mods have limited safety features, get things wrong and you may injure yourself and or other people. Make sure you have a good understanding of battery safety and ohms law BEFORE you run the mod.

To get the best out of an unregulated mod you really need to be building your own coils. In a regulated device you can adjust the power up and down to get the vape you want from pretty much any coil. In an unregulated device to adjust the power you need to change the resistance. Reducing the resistance will increase the amount of current drawn from the battery and increase the wattage.

If you have not built your own coils before I would stick to a single coil build on an RDA. I would recommend starting with either a coil made from 30AWG Kanthal in the 1.5 to 2 Ohm range or a coil made from 28AWG Kanthal in the 0.8 to 1.4 ohm range.

I use Coil wrapping To plan my builds.
and more importantly Battery drain to work out the current draw from the battery to remain safe I generally give myself 50% headroom so if I was using a 20A battery I would build to a maximum of 10A draw.

Good luck.

 

[Asbestos4004]

1.8 ohms on a mechanical mod at 4 volts would come out to about 8 watts. You might want to try a coil with lower ohms. A 1.2 ohm coil will be closer to 13 watts.

 

[Cloud_Generator]

Hi Cloud_Generator,

Before using this mod you really need to do some groundwork. Most mechanical mods have limited safety features, get things wrong and you may injure yourself and or other people. Make sure you have a good understanding of battery safety and ohms law BEFORE you run the mod.

To get the best out of an unregulated mod you really need to be building your own coils. In a regulated device you can adjust the power up and down to get the vape you want from pretty much any coil. In an unregulated device to adjust the power you need to change the resistance. Reducing the resistance will increase the amount of current drawn from the battery and increase the wattage.

If you have not built your own coils before I would stick to a single coil build on an RDA. I would recommend starting with either a coil made from 30AWG Kanthal in the 1.5 to 2 Ohm range or a coil made from 28AWG Kanthal in the 0.8 to 1.4 ohm range.

I use Coil wrapping To plan my builds.
and more importantly Battery drain to work out the current draw from the battery to remain safe I generally give myself 50% headroom so if I was using a 20A battery I would build to a maximum of 10A draw.

Good luck.

Thank you for the response!
I have built numerous coils now and I always check them with my volt ohm meter.
I have never ran into any problems using my D2 and my xcube2. My only problem is with the wizard. It wont fire anything below 1 ohm and with the 1.8 ohm nautilus its like vaping air, I cant figure out why this is.

 

[Cloud_Generator]

1.8 ohms on a mechanical mod at 4 volts would come out to about 8 watts. You might want to try a coil with lower ohms. A 1.2 ohm coil will be closer to 13 watts.

I Installed my cubis with a 1 ohm and it is better but its not like it is on my xcube at 13.6 watts. I thinks its about the same if I set my xcube around 9.5 watts.
I also installed my Atlantis with a .5 coil and it wouldn't fire it at all

 

[Asbestos4004]

admittedly, I know next to nothing about the Wizard. Wizard Evolved? I can do that but the Wizard seems to be basically a really nice EGO battery. Is that right? It's not a mech...a mech fires anything and it wouldn't have a touch sensor switch. I know folks use to run cartos on them back in the day....

 

[Cloud_Generator]

admittedly, I know next to nothing about the Wizard. Wizard Evolved? I can do that but the Wizard seems to be basically a really nice EGO battery. Is that right? It's not a mech...a mech fires anything and it wouldn't have a touch sensor switch. I know folks use to run cartos on them back in the day....

mine is the titanium wizard that has the touch sensor.
I just built a .78ohm build in my haze and that seems to have helped a lot. It hits harder on my d2 which is set at 20 watts so I still don't understand that because at 4 volts and .78 ohms eguals 20.5 watts so to me it should be about the same on both devices.
I would like a stronger throat hit so I may try a higher nicotine level to see if that helps

 

[Asbestos4004]

mine is the titanium wizard that has the touch sensor.
I just built a .78ohm build in my haze and that seems to have helped a lot. It hits harder on my d2 which is set at 20 watts so I still don't understand that because at 4 volts and .78 ohms eguals 20.5 watts so to me it should be about the same on both devices.
I would like a stronger throat hit so I may try a higher nicotine level to see if that helps

So it WILL fire under a 1 ohm....OK, making more sense

 

[Layzee Vaper]

mine is the titanium wizard that has the touch sensor.
I just built a .78ohm build in my haze and that seems to have helped a lot. It hits harder on my d2 which is set at 20 watts so I still don't understand that because at 4 volts and .78 ohms eguals 20.5 watts so to me it should be about the same on both devices.
I would like a stronger throat hit so I may try a higher nicotine level to see if that helps

OK. You will get some sag in the battery voltage when it is placed under load. The amount of sag is variable and dependent on the build, the resistance of the atomizer, battery and Mod. As a battery ages you will also see a larger voltage drop, especially if the battery has been abused . So if you started with 4 volts on a unloaded battery and had a voltage drop across the battery and mod of 0.4V you would end up with 3.6V at the coil. So your 20W would be actually much closer to 16W. You can measure the actual voltage across the coil with a multimeter and this will give you the actual wattage.

The blurb on Mark Bugs website says the mod can handle 4A for about 4 seconds so you might be pushing it with your build.

Check out the heat flux value on the coil building tab on steam engine. This will give you an idea of how hot your coil is at any given wattage. Its worth knowing that the temperature will be dependent on the wire type and thickness as well as the resistance and the applied voltage.
If you have a build that works on a regulated mod use that as a starting point.
Play around with different wire sizes, resistance and power levels using steam engine and see what works and what does not. Its much easier to use the tool than to keep trying random builds until you happen across the right one.

It looks like this mod is getting on a bit, when it was popular a Low Resistance atty was about 1.5 ohms you may find that running a thinner wire size at a higher resistance and lower power will give you the heat that you need in the coil.

Like I said before, good luck!

 

[Cloud_Generator]

OK. You will get some sag in the battery voltage when it is placed under load. The amount of sag is variable and dependent on the build, the resistance of the atomizer, battery and Mod. As a battery ages you will also see a larger voltage drop, especially if the battery has been abused . So if you started with 4 volts on a unloaded battery and had a voltage drop across the battery and mod of 0.4V you would end up with 3.6V at the coil. So your 20W would be actually much closer to 16W. You can measure the actual voltage across the coil with a multimeter and this will give you the actual wattage.

The blurb on Mark Bugs website says the mod can handle 4A for about 4 seconds so you might be pushing it with your build.

Check out the heat flux value on the coil building tab on steam engine. This will give you an idea of how hot your coil is at any given wattage. Its worth knowing that the temperature will be dependent on the wire type and thickness as well as the resistance and the applied voltage.
If you have a build that works on a regulated mod use that as a starting point.
Play around with different wire sizes, resistance and power levels using steam engine and see what works and what does not. Its much easier to use the tool than to keep trying random builds until you happen across the right one.

It looks like this mod is getting on a bit, when it was popular a Low Resistance atty was about 1.5 ohms you may find that running a thinner wire size at a higher resistance and lower power will give you the heat that you need in the coil.

Like I said before, good luck!

Thanks for the info. I am going to play around on steam engine later tonight. I am getting close to where I want to be with this particular mod I just want to get the heat up a little more so its like you said play around with different wire until I get what I want