hey all. Been vaping for a while now. prolly bout 3-4 years. Ive been thinking bout getting a mech mod and have been reading lots about battery safety. My question is..... It seems like the batteries become unsafe as they drain and get to the end of there charge. So how do you know when to stop vapeing on them and give them a charge. Are you taking a volt meter to the batteries every 4-5 hours to make sure they are still ok? Thanks for your help!!
mech mod help
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It becomes quite clear that the intensity and vapor production has dropped off. On a fresh charge the batteries hit really hard, then they drop to their avg 3.7V range and the vape mellows some but simply vapes great. Then as the battery gets low vapor production goes way down and you have to start compensating by taking longer puffs. I can tell just by the 'feel' of the vapor, but I know for sure because of the extra long hits I have to take to get the same vapor that I did from a very short puff on a fully charged battery, if that makes sense.
yes that does make sense. thanks for the reply. my next question when it comes to these mechanicals is..... other then looks and quality of the build, will they pretty much all hit the same? ive been looking at some on fasttech for 18 bucks. Would you recommend imr batteries to start? what brand batteries are most preferred? thanks
Different mech mods do hit differently. You'll find the material that the contact pins and the mod itself make a huge difference. Stainless steel is the most durable, but has the least conductivity, and therefore hits not as hard. Next comes brass, which is a happy medium between durability and conductivity. You'll find a lot of stainless steel tubes using brass contacts. Copper is one of the best conductors, but is a softer metal that oxidizes quickly. Finally, silver is the best conductor, but very expensive, so you'll usually only see silver plating, not pure silver itself.
Other factors play, as well. The positive contact is usually a pin or a direct connect to the 510 connection through a hybrid mod. The negative contact is actually the tube itself, when the button is pressed, completing the circuit. As a result, springs for floating pins reduce conductivity, since it takes the current up a narrow winding channel. One piece designs normally hit harder than sectional mods, that have different sections for different battery lengths. This again goes back to less obstacles for the current to pass through.
Most clones from the well known clone makers hit just as hard as the authentic's. This includes companies like EhPro, Hcigar, Infinite, Cigreen, and a slew of others. You can usually find a review of the clone you're looking at. Fasttech has those companies' products, as well as unknown brands. But the reviews are usually there, if you search "xyz fasttech clone."
For batteries, it depends on what you're doing. If you vape regular resistance only, like 1.0 ohm or more, you can use most IMR 18350's, 18490/500's, and 18650's. If you vape or plan to vape sub-ohm, stick to 30 amp 18650 IMR batteries, like Sony VTC3/4/5 or purple Efest batteries. Personally, I do sub-ohm and only trust Sony VTC's because of their proven track record.
Other factors play, as well. The positive contact is usually a pin or a direct connect to the 510 connection through a hybrid mod. The negative contact is actually the tube itself, when the button is pressed, completing the circuit. As a result, springs for floating pins reduce conductivity, since it takes the current up a narrow winding channel. One piece designs normally hit harder than sectional mods, that have different sections for different battery lengths. This again goes back to less obstacles for the current to pass through.
Most clones from the well known clone makers hit just as hard as the authentic's. This includes companies like EhPro, Hcigar, Infinite, Cigreen, and a slew of others. You can usually find a review of the clone you're looking at. Fasttech has those companies' products, as well as unknown brands. But the reviews are usually there, if you search "xyz fasttech clone."
For batteries, it depends on what you're doing. If you vape regular resistance only, like 1.0 ohm or more, you can use most IMR 18350's, 18490/500's, and 18650's. If you vape or plan to vape sub-ohm, stick to 30 amp 18650 IMR batteries, like Sony VTC3/4/5 or purple Efest batteries. Personally, I do sub-ohm and only trust Sony VTC's because of their proven track record.
^^^ Great post.
AW IMRs and Sony VTCs are the most used and recommended batteries for mechanical mods. AW IMRs have been around for a long time and most modders use them as reference when designing and building their mods. Both are safe chemistry IMR batteries and will vent in case of a short. Sony VTC5s go up to 30amps and are a great choice for even they lowest sub-ohm builds, but are only available in 18650 size. AW IMRs come in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes and can also handle very heavy loads.
I understand that people buy cloned mods to save money, but I would strongly suggest that people not try to save a few bucks on batteries and instead purchase them from a reputable vendor (like RTD Vapor). The Chinese are cloning AW and Sony batteries and lots of US and Overseas vendors are carrying them. The battery is the most important component of your setup and it doesn't make sense to me to save a few dollars to risk your safety.
AW IMRs and Sony VTCs are the most used and recommended batteries for mechanical mods. AW IMRs have been around for a long time and most modders use them as reference when designing and building their mods. Both are safe chemistry IMR batteries and will vent in case of a short. Sony VTC5s go up to 30amps and are a great choice for even they lowest sub-ohm builds, but are only available in 18650 size. AW IMRs come in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes and can also handle very heavy loads.
I understand that people buy cloned mods to save money, but I would strongly suggest that people not try to save a few bucks on batteries and instead purchase them from a reputable vendor (like RTD Vapor). The Chinese are cloning AW and Sony batteries and lots of US and Overseas vendors are carrying them. The battery is the most important component of your setup and it doesn't make sense to me to save a few dollars to risk your safety.
I use vtc 5s religiously, I vape at .5 on all my drippers with massive airflow and on my rbas and gennies I vape at .8ish. I can always tell when I need a new battery or a charge because the vape production and flavor virtually vanish when comparing to a fully charged battery. I try not to ever let my batteries fall below 3.7 and vtc 5s hold up pretty good for me. I can use 1 battery all day at work and for about an hour or 2 when I get home before needing to be switched out.
I quoted myself. I forgot to mention I only vape through copper and brass tubes.
I'd recommend sony vtc 4 or 5. Since they got 30A if you decide to try out the lower ohm builds.
And they also cost about the same as AW (in sweden atleast)
As for the battery drop of. I was realy "anxious" about that aswell in the beginning. But i started to notice the dropof immedietly when i started to use mechs. When they reach 3.7-3.8V i've to recharge due the poor performance. (For my preferences)
A good starter mech is nemesis, it's my first and i've already ordered more nemesises due i like them so much.
Another great one is Stingray.
And they also cost about the same as AW (in sweden atleast)
As for the battery drop of. I was realy "anxious" about that aswell in the beginning. But i started to notice the dropof immedietly when i started to use mechs. When they reach 3.7-3.8V i've to recharge due the poor performance. (For my preferences)
A good starter mech is nemesis, it's my first and i've already ordered more nemesises due i like them so much.
Another great one is Stingray.
actually its very subjective; its like a feeling inside that cant be expressed with words but This is the best explanation..you will know if your battery are drained..less cloud and taste..
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