Mech Mod, the safe OHM...

[DoubleDecker]

Hey all,

Not new to building coils... New to using a mechanical mod. Just ordered my first one.

As of now, I'm not interested in "sub ohm" coils. So here's the question.

Normally I keep my coils in the 1.2 to 2 ohm range. Would this ohm level be safe enough to use with most, if not all batteries?

Additionally, what's a good site (preferably explained in layman's terms) that explains how to safely build coils ETC.

Thank you!

 

[Double Helix]

Normally I keep my coils in the 1.2 to 2 ohm range. Would this ohm level be safe enough to use with most, if not all batteries?

Take a couple moments to learn and understand Ohm's Law. There's plenty of resources available. If you understand the variables then the rest is basic math. This site also helps you with all the calculations you need to perform.
Ohm's law | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

Alternatively this pdf will provide you with an answer, but I always prefer to trust my calculations. *I haven't verified all the info on this pdf, use at your own risk*
http://www.utahvapers.com/resources/SubOhmChart.pdf

Don't forget about the rest of battery safety regarding charging, discharging, and picking the correct batteries to use on a mech mod.

Additionally, what's a good site (preferably explained in layman's terms) that explains how to safely build coils ETC.

Youtube! As for what wire gauge, size and quantity of wraps, and other information can be found on this site.

 

[thismat]

You'll learn a lot about building to the ohms you want simply by doing. Once you've been doing it for a while you can estimate pretty accurately what you'll end up at with a certain number of wraps.

The links Double Helix provided are good. Definitely learn Ohm's law, and do buy a multimeter to track your builds and your batteries while you learn.

General rule of thumb is anything above 1 ohm is pretty safe, but you NEED to know your batteries anyways and be very comfortable with them. There are lots of flashlight forums out there with a lot of good information on batteries as well. Google is your friend when it comes to battery specs.

 

[Baditude]

Battery Basics for Mods

Information Resources for Your First RBA

Ohm's Law for Dummies

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

 

[readmermaid]

Baditude,

You don't know me but I am ever so grateful you're here & actively responding to so many noob questions. I am often frightened & perturbed by sub-ohm, cloud-chasing young-uns who started vaping yesterday & haven't a clue. Many times the answers to their questions are provided by new vapors who started day BEFORE yesterday.

I worry for their safety & also, selfishly for the future of vaping should something awful occur.

I've been around a long time but am full well aware that I have much to learn.

Vape on, darlings. But please, please, please do some homework first.....

 

[Baditude]

Baditude,

You don't know me but I am ever so grateful you're here & actively responding to so many noob questions. I am often frightened & perturbed by sub-ohm, cloud-chasing young-uns who started vaping yesterday & haven't a clue. Many times the answers to their questions are provided by new vapors who started day BEFORE yesterday.

I worry for their safety & also, selfishly for the future of vaping should something awful occur.

Thanks. I too am often afraid of new vapors jumping right into sub-ohm vaping. They don't realize that they are taking dangerous risks if they don't know what they are doing. There's much more to sub-ohms than just throwing any kind of battery into a mechanical mod, throwing a coil together and hoping it doesn't have a short, and then not knowing what to do if their mod gets hot or they vent a battery. It's why I try to add some voice of reason to all the madness. A catastrophe doesn't just affect them, it affects the entire vaping community.

 

[MrPlink]

A mechanical is only as safe as its user.
There is no magical resistance you can set and be negligent with.

Last month I had a friend nearly set his wife's purse on fire
because he put his mech in it without locking it. It had a kayfun with a 1.8ohm coil.

A knowledgeable and responsible user with a .15 ohm coil willbe much safer than an ignorant and careless user with a 3 ohm coil

 

[Shootist]

If you are using a Mech Mod, NO battery protection at all, you should only use High Drain, High Amp batteries like the Sony VTC 4 or 5.

IMHO it doesn't matter what resistance coil you are using. With NO battery protection you could over draw the standard IMR type batteries.

Again IMHO this is something you should of investigated long before you ordered your first Mech Mod.

If you aren't new to coil building then you have all the knowledge needed. There is only one way to safely wrap and use a APV coil.
The only difference is in the ohms of the coil you wrap.

In all honesty if you have to ask these question maybe you shouldn't be wrapping your own coils or using a Mech Mod. At least not until you are more knowledgeable.

 

[DoubleDecker]

The reason I am asking these questions of people in this community is to become more knowledgeable. I have been wrapping my own coils for over a year. I am ready to move on to a new challenge.

I understand there are MANY sources for learning about how to safely build a mech mod.

Understanding the basics is easy. Don't buy a cheap battery, don't jump in to sub ohm coils right off the bat, test your coils, and use the lock ring when not in use.

The complicated questions come in to play when calculating correct resistance for particular batteries.

Mainly I a searching every resource I can to ensure I don't blow my face off and in turn give a bad name to the vaping community.

Remember, everyone was a noob once.

 

[440BB]

Most any battery will support your resistances in a mechanical device. The issue comes down to safety.

First - safer chemistry. I only use IMR batteries, and name brand ones from reliable sources. AW is still my first choice, but the Efest batteries I've used have held up almost as well.

Second - protection circuitry. Regulated mods have that built in for the most part, while mechanical mods do not. Adding a fuse device will give you additional protection in your mechanical mod, so the safest possibility is combining them with good quality safe chemistry batteries. Most protection circuits will not be triggered by the resistances you are using.

I typically use IMR batteries, without an additional circuit, at 1.5 - 2.2 ohms in my mechanical mods. I feel pretty safe, but whenever I put in a new battery off the charger, the first test fire is away from my face as a simple precaution.

 

[v1k1ng1001]

Once you understand Ohm's law and get to know your batteries and equipment there are several nifty apps for mobile devices that will do the calculations for you.

When I'm building with mechs I give myself plenty of cushion. I'm not going to push a crappy Efest battery, or even a nicer vtc 4, to the limit. It's just not worth it.

 

[Stevie Simpson]

Hi doubledecker, as said by all above, safety first, learn ohms law, get the apps, calculate, check, calculate again, and use a multimeter, I've been using mech's for 6 months, couple of days ago I screwed in a tank slightly too hard to the mech, shorted it, mech heated up so fast (think holding the iron after switching it on by the plate) nearly .... myself, thank god my vtc4's are as safe as you could get, I had never felt a full hard short before, hope you never have too.. Be safe fella.

 

[LowryTheKing]

Okay, I don't see this spelled out enough, but know your amps! Not just your ohms. Know the specs on your batteries, so you know how many amps they can handle. Everyone is correct in recommending green sony's, as they safely handle 30 amps. Red LG's are another good option claiming 35 amps Orange MNKE's are also great, but understand that they're only rated for 20 amps, so I won't vape under .22 ohm coil with that battery. I'll explain why.

First off, ALWAYS test your coils before firing, use a multimeter or resistance tester to know your ohms. Anything at or below .1 is a dead short! If your mod is getting hot, you probably have a short, stop vaping and test it. Also, don't over drain your batteries, this can cause a failure.

Once you know your resistance, it's simple to calculate your amps: take your VOLTS and DIVIDE it by your RESISTANCE.

So, a fully charged battery should be pushing 4.2 volts. Let's say you build a .3 ohm coil; 4.2 / .3 = 14 amps. if your battery is rated above that, you're good.

Now, I personally think it's unsafe to vape below .15 ohms, which is 28 amps. My personal preference is between .22 and .28 ohms. But even that is lower than many people prefer. Between .3 and .4 ohms is a solid level to shoot for.

To recap:

- Know your batteries and their amperage rating
- Own a multimeter to test your volts and your resistance habitually
- Know YOUR AMPS! Not just resistance.

- Don't over-drain batteries
- NEVER FIRE A SHORT!

Hope that helps, go hang out at your local brick and mortar, build coils with them and ask questions. Also, do your own research, understand that there are a lot of people out there that don't know what they're doing and claim to. So it's awesome that asking these questions and being safe! Vape safe brother and have fun.



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[LowryTheKing]

Haha, I just re-read original post. The answer is yes, most all batteries are fine at 1.2.


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[dice57]

Thing is, no matter what ohms you build at, one is going to obtain the best performance with something like a Sony VTC5 30 amp. Just more usable power. And, once one does dip it down to the sub zone, they have one of the best batts to do so.

Then there is always the locked in firing mode scenario to consider. Cause if you vape long enough you are going to experience a locked firing mod, occasionally. Whether mechanical or regulated. This does happen. Like riding a motorcycle, one is going to fall down.

When this happens, I want to wake up to a cloudy room and a dead batt, maybe a hot mod, don't want to wake up to a fire or chemical venting situation. Oh, and when this happens on a 0.18 ohm build, be very, very, careful, everything is very, very, Fraking HOT!!!, I mean, really fraking hot. Can melt a derlin drip tip HOT. But the VTC4 lived to vape another day.

Oh, and hey, did anyone else see the new Black Vamped 40 amp & Copper Vamped 40 amp Batts that are listed on 101Vape?? 40 amp continuous with 2000 mah's in an 18650 batt!! Hmm, will keep these in mind if I ever want to go .15 or lower.

 

[Tinkiegrrl]

Make sure you have the proper equipment to stay safe. Either a multimeter, or a volt and ohm meter. Always test the resistance of your coils before firing them on a mech mod.

Next, don't skimp on cheap batteries. You want high drain batteries with a reputation on being safe. The green Sony VTC 4 and 5 are great, as are the red AW IMR's. Be on the look out for clone AW's though. All the genuine new ones have a hologram sticker now, rather them the black and silver ones. Oh, and the purple Efests were good as well I think.

A 1.2 ohm coil should be fine on a mech mod. I coil all my RTAs at around 1.2 - 1.3 ohms so I can use them on my mech mods and my Provari. I almost always use AW IMR'S because anything else voids the warranty on the Provari, however I recently picked up a couple of green Sony batteries for my mech mods. If you are nervous about a mech mod without protection, you can always get an Evolv Kick To use in it as you learn. This turns the mech into a regulated device that will not allow you to over drain your batteries (this is why you need a volt meter. Better for battery health to not over drain them), and a Kick will adjust depending on your build. When you are ready, remove the kick and you have a mech mod again.

 

[imsoenthused]

Oh, and hey, did anyone else see the new Black Vamped 40 amp & Copper Vamped 40 amp Batts that are listed on 101Vape?? 40 amp continuous with 2000 mah's in an 18650 batt!! Hmm, will keep these in mind if I ever want to go .15 or lower.

They're not 40 amp continuous, they're 20 amp continuous, that plasters their burst rate all over the side and acts like they're the "FIRST 40 AMP BATTERY MADE FOR VAPERS!" I wouldn't trust them. Not after BS marketing like that.

 

[SleeZy]

They're not 40 amp continuous, they're 20 amp continuous, that plasters their burst rate all over the side and acts like they're the "FIRST 40 AMP BATTERY MADE FOR VAPERS!" I wouldn't trust them. Not after BS marketing like that.

My tought aswell.

 

[Necrotic]

Baditude,

You don't know me but I am ever so grateful you're here & actively responding to so many noob questions. I am often frightened & perturbed by sub-ohm, cloud-chasing young-uns who started vaping yesterday & haven't a clue. Many times the answers to their questions are provided by new vapors who started day BEFORE yesterday.

I worry for their safety & also, selfishly for the future of vaping should something awful occur.

I've been around a long time but am full well aware that I have much to learn.

Vape on, darlings. But please, please, please do some homework first.....

This is why I recommend to anybody saying "new to mech mods" I recommend they first read Baditude's blogs.

 

[asvaldr]

Know your battery amp limit.
1 ohm above is considered safe for most imr and hybrid battery and icr is no longer recommended
Just a simple equation for that, 4.2v is a fully charged battery / resistance:
4.2/1=4.2 a
4.2/.9=4.67 a
4.2/.8=5.25 a
4.2/.7=6 a
4.2/.6=7 a
4.2/.5=8.4 a
4.2/.4=10.5 a
4.2/.3=14 a
4.2/.2=21 a
4.2/.1=42 a

Ex: using efest purple 18350 with 10.5 amp limit you can go to .4 ohm but i strongly suggest that DON'T PUSH YOUR BATTERY TO ITS LIMIT, i think you are safer with .6 or above cause i never go beyond 3/4 of my battery amp limit
And make sure there is no short