Hi, I got into vaping about 2 months ago. I have some trouble with my mech mod and my RDA. My mech mod is a fuhatten skyline clone. My battery is a LG HG2. My RDA is a big dripper clone and my build reads out to about .23 ohms. My problem is that recently my mech mod has not been producing very good clouds with my build, and I make sure to line up the air holes with the coils. When I place my RDA on my coil master tab and use it the vapor production seems to be bigger compared to when it is on my mech mod. My mech mod also sometimes miss hits, or does not fire. I think I may need to clean my mech mod, but am not sure. Also, the battery in my coil master tab is also a LG HG2
I am not sure if you got your issues resolved yet, but thought I might have a positive contribution(s) to share.
Firstly would like to say; pretty nice first setup you got there (fuhatten skyline clone + RDA big dripper clone).
Secondly, someone knowledgeable with mech-mods that have adjustable top-caps would probably be quick to troubleshoot your issue in person. Many good suggestions already in this thread, but it seems the adjustable top-cap may have been overlooked so far, and/or possibly an issue inside the switch (comments below) ...?
As you may or may not know, "clones" can vary drastically in their overall quality!! Clones from one manufacturer to another that is. I would suggest that you attempt to determine the actual manufacturer of clone devices before purchase so as to understand their specific potential issues. One example: I have (2) Velocity RDA by Tobeco, and (2) by FastTech (Velocity clones are made by a number of other manufactures as well). The quality overall on the Tobeco clones is far superior (screws, threading, 510 screw, etc., etc.). I am not saying Tobeco is always gonna be better, just one example.
I believe I have read that the Coil Master is regulated to fire at between 35w - 40w. So, if it is firing your atty better than your mech there's an issue to resolve. You only mentioned one battery, I believe, so assume the battery is a constant (not the issue), and that you are not experiencing any issues charging the battery fully (4.2v), and that the wrapper is in good condition.
Specific to your comments in this thread, two things seem to pop out.
1) You believe when it fires, it fires weak (compared to your Coil Master, which should be less).
2) Sometimes is does not fire (your mod).
Both of these issues I would assume related to the electrical conductivity of either your device (Fuhatten) or the connection between the device and the atty (you stated the atty fires good on the Coil Master. So, rebuilding your coils is most likely not a solution (as you seem to have already stated you attempted ..., to no positive resolve, I think ...?). Making sure your post fasteners are secure is always a good idea.
Cleaning of the electrical contacts (as suggest by others already) is a typical first trouble-shooting option (and typical maintenance procedure). The physical construction materials will dictate cleaning cycle times (example: copper & brass oxidize much faster than stainless & therefore will need a bit more maintenance). Maintenance includes checking all electrical contacts and fasteners. (Cleaning contacts references below.)
When I read your original post, the first couple things that came to mind include the fact that the Fuhatten uses multiple contacts both at the top AND bottom of the device (an adjustable multi-piece top-cap AND multi-piece bottom switch). I would guess that your conductivity issue(s) in one of these two locations. Reduction in electrical contact points (and overall simplicity) is why I prefer hybrid top-cap tube mod's (SMPL mod for example in my case). Knowing if your mech-clone switch uses a spring or opposing magnets would be good to know and understand with regard to the electrical contacts, maintenance, and troubleshooting (clones use various options, even if they "say" they are 1:1 clone they may not be the same as the original device). If you have a magnet controlled switch, it could simply be a bit of debris getting between the contacts (magnetic switches use opposing magnetic force to keep the contacts separated, typically two round donut magnets inside the switch). Keep this in mind if you disassemble to find magnets (they must be installed so the magnets oppose each-other keep the switch open until pressed).
Using your Coil Master (assuming it's a 521 Tab), you can test fire your mod (with AND without atty) to test the output of the mod (using that black "voltage checker" plug in device with 510 male thread). This is what makes the Coil Master 521 unique. It can help isolate problems AND answer your other question (later in your thread) related to voltage drop of a mech-mod. Example: I connect my SMPL Mech to Coil Master with a freshly charged battery (4.2v resting state) and fire the mod to a reading of say 4.1v - 4.2v (very minimal drop, indicating electrical contacts are good (this is effectively a no-load test of the battery and mod). Now I attach an atty with a .2ohm build (to the 521) and fire the mod to a reading of say 3.4v on the Coil Master (indicating that under load my batteries are only pushing 3.4v to my atty when the atty is firing consuming power). If I were to put this same atty onto a regulated mod, I would expect it to perform similarly at 3.4v to the mech on a fully charged battery. I have yet to visit a vape-shop that understood these types of tests can be done on the 521, but it is interesting to see the looks on their faces when they see it (surprisingly they still really don't understand how, what, why this may be of use to them ... ;-) For me though, I was lucky enough to have a vape shop locally that allowed me to "test" their 521 with my mech and batteries as a way of checking the firing condition of my mech (votage drop, etc.) and battery performance (a brand new charged battery performed the same as my used battery, saving me the expense of buying new batteries in hopes I just had a battery going bad). What I learned was ..., not to expect a single-mech firing a fully charged battery to hit as hard a reg-device firing at a preset 4.2v (the reg-device compensates for the voltage drop of the coil). This happen to be contrary to what everybody "who knew what they are talking about" told me. Hopefully makes sense to you though as you have an issue that this type of trouble shooting could be of use, AND you already own a 521 ;-)
As for cleaning contacts (oxidation/corrosion), I have found a simple, cheap product available at most hardware and or kitchen supply stores called Bars-Keepers-Friend. It's been around for decades. It's only about $2 for a 15oz can of dry powder at my local hardware store. To clean contacts I use a damp Q-tip or my fingertip, lightly touched into the powder and rub till clean/dry (about 10-15 seconds MAX), then wipe with clean, dry rag. This product also works well for the outside of a mech, the inner threading(s), battery contacts, etc., etc. (works really nice on the stainless kitchen sink as well, as that is what it was engineered for ...). Be aware, it is a little abrasive, so rub in a direction that matches surface finish or expect to use a polishing compound after for a high gloss finish. A 12oz can at Walmart:
Bar Keeper's Friend 12 Oz Cleaner and Polish - Walmart.com
I am pretty new here, but assume there is PM functionality in this site that you could message me if you want to discuss further use of the 521 as I have described.
Regards,
