Mech mods
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What are the best 18650 batteries to use? - Depends on how you vape, resistance and power
How do they work? Similar to flashlight.. quite frankly they are a flashlight except there is an atomizer instead of a lightbulb(led)
Should they be used with only RDA's? -Depends again on how you use it. If you use a mech at low power RTAs and carts are fine. I use carts and rtas with a mech.
What do they perform like with sub ohm tanks - Mechs start at 4.2V then lose power as the battery drains. Basically they perform the same as a regulated device. You just need to know how to build for your taste.
How do they work? Similar to flashlight.. quite frankly they are a flashlight except there is an atomizer instead of a lightbulb(led)
Should they be used with only RDA's? -Depends again on how you use it. If you use a mech at low power RTAs and carts are fine. I use carts and rtas with a mech.
What do they perform like with sub ohm tanks - Mechs start at 4.2V then lose power as the battery drains. Basically they perform the same as a regulated device. You just need to know how to build for your taste.
Err, that's the exact opposite of a regulated device, though. A regulated device starts at whatever setting you have chosen, and then delivers that same power until the battery dies.
1: best batteries: I guess that would be 'sony vtc4' from illum
2: how do mechs work? Well they don't exactly 'work'; they just are; a mech is basically just a container for the battery.
3: should mechs be used with only rda's? you can use a mech with anything.
4: performance is more about the battery than the container.
You can use them with tanks, for the most part. A hybrid connector won't work with all tanks, and should probably be avoided for a first mech.
Batteries depend on your build. The lower your ohms are, the more power it will draw. Make sure you are familiar with ohms law, even download an app for calculating the power used. Check out Mooch's battery tests to see what will work for your intended builds. Batteries that support more amp draw will have less mAh, and won't hold a charge as long. But higher mAh batteries will not handle the amp draw of lower ohm builds. Sony VTC4's are a popular battery, they are a 20amp battery that can safely handle 30amps, and have higher mAh ratings than other 30amp batteries. If you don't need the extra amps, Samsung 25R's are a good choice.
Batteries depend on your build. The lower your ohms are, the more power it will draw. Make sure you are familiar with ohms law, even download an app for calculating the power used. Check out Mooch's battery tests to see what will work for your intended builds. Batteries that support more amp draw will have less mAh, and won't hold a charge as long. But higher mAh batteries will not handle the amp draw of lower ohm builds. Sony VTC4's are a popular battery, they are a 20amp battery that can safely handle 30amps, and have higher mAh ratings than other 30amp batteries. If you don't need the extra amps, Samsung 25R's are a good choice.
Maybe I could have worded it better.. meh. Sub Ohm tanks still perform about the same unless of course you are running at 3.2V with a double twisting parallel clapton build quad coil. It all depends on how far you run the battery down.
Thanks guys gives me an insight
I own only 25r's and vtc4's currently so batteries are good
I generally vape on RDA's around 0.25 to .4 and never really vape over 80w unless using stock tfv4 coils I generally vape around 40-55w
Is there any particular rule on which tube to purchase? There are so many and lots are clones are they safe?
I own only 25r's and vtc4's currently so batteries are good
I generally vape on RDA's around 0.25 to .4 and never really vape over 80w unless using stock tfv4 coils I generally vape around 40-55w
Is there any particular rule on which tube to purchase? There are so many and lots are clones are they safe?
.25 puts you at 16.8 amps and about 71 watts, at that point I would stick with the VTC4's for the extra headroom. .4 is 10.5 amps at 44 watts so the 25R's would be great. That is a single battery mod.
I don't think there is anything wrong with clones as long as the machining is good and the switch works well. Read reviews and see what people that own that exact mod think before you buy. What you buy comes down to what you like and what you want to spend. With prices from $10 to hundreds, I'm sure you can find something that catches your fancy.
I don't think there is anything wrong with clones as long as the machining is good and the switch works well. Read reviews and see what people that own that exact mod think before you buy. What you buy comes down to what you like and what you want to spend. With prices from $10 to hundreds, I'm sure you can find something that catches your fancy.
The only rule I adhere to is it must have a delrin (or other insulator) on the switch (I don't do barebacks) . The clones sort themselves as good or bad over time. I just planted my brass nemi clone in the yard for a second time. After a year of being planted, it came working like it did prior.
My favorite is the Gus Lord device. I just won't throw the cash at them for it.
My favorite is the Gus Lord device. I just won't throw the cash at them for it.
Get a Reo. They are known to cure shinyitis though, I haven't had a flare up in almost 8 months. 
One I'd look for a mech that has a locking ring instead of a recessed button your first mech, when not in use, lock the switch. I'll second @bluecat on delrin insulators at the bottom point of contact, this reduces chances of an autofire due to the battery inadvertently making contact at the bottom. Third, for a first mech stay away from the SMPL, four nine, and other direct to battery/atomizer connection top caps on a mech, especially with the fact you are looking to run a sub-ohm tank on it, make sure the mech you decide to get has an adjustable positive pin at the top. Batteries, personally in all my mechs I run solely 30amp CDR batteries, Sony VTC3/VTC4 and LG HB6.
My favorite mechanical mods are those with recessed switches and locking rings (like the GP Paps v4, GP Piccolo v4, and Kuro Concepts GT-2).
My mod of choice is a Reo which is a mechanical mech mod box squonker. For me, I use the button top AW 1600mah batteries. They are usually good to 24 amps, but I build my attys no lower than 0.4 ohms.
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