I'm considering buying my first mechanical mod. I've been using an iTaste MVP 2 for a few months now but I want to start to build my collection. I've had my eyes on the Smoktech Magneto, but I need to know one thing. I'm looking at starting rebuilding eventually, but for now I'm greatly enjoying using a simple protank 2 or cartotank from ibtanked. Would I still be able to use these tanks with a mechanical mod? I particularly love my cartotank (2.0 Ohm smoktech cartos) and I just need to know if using a mechanical mod would overload either of these tanks. Thanks!
Mechanical Mod Confusion
- Thread starter Hammerzeit
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I have the Magneto as well. In my opinion you will not recieve a satisfactory vape from a 2 ohm Carto. If you can drop it down to a 1.5 ohm it will be OK.... same with the protank, go to the 1.5 ohm or 1.8 ohm and it would be acceptable, but in my opinion lacking.
If it works on your MVP it'll work on your mechanical. Like hvfracingwilly said, with a 2 ohm coil on your carto or protank though, your vape might start to get bad after a little while.
Where your MVP mantains the current output until the battery is too low (and stops), a mechanical mod will start at 4.1-4.2V (fully charged battery), and then as the voltage of the battery dwindles, so does your performance.
for a lower resistance carto (for your IBTanked tank) I use the boge f16 LR (usually between 1.6 and 1.8 ohms). You might want to look for something a little lower though.
Hope this helps =]
Where your MVP mantains the current output until the battery is too low (and stops), a mechanical mod will start at 4.1-4.2V (fully charged battery), and then as the voltage of the battery dwindles, so does your performance.
for a lower resistance carto (for your IBTanked tank) I use the boge f16 LR (usually between 1.6 and 1.8 ohms). You might want to look for something a little lower though.
Hope this helps =]
In a mechanical mod, voltage is unregulated, so it starts at approx 4.2 volts, then drops over time to 3.7 volts and below. I find that voltage is good with 1.6 - 2.0 ohm cartos and clearos. If you want to later make it variable wattage/voltage, you can add a Kick type device for about $15 that works with a smaller 18490 battery in an 18650 tube mod. I think you'll be fine, unless you're looking for really strong throat hits. Good luck!
I vape 6mg and throat hit isn't hugely important to me. I'm all about flavor and a decent amount of vapor production.
In reality, you'll probably be better off with a VV/VW device. The only reason people really use mech mods is because they can fire sub ohm coils, and I know i'm going to catch a lot of flack for this (Because some people like to argue about this) but I don't really understand the point of a mech mod (other than the sub ohm coils).
A Lot of people put kick's in their mechs anyways, so why not just use a device that has that functionality already built in.
A Lot of people put kick's in their mechs anyways, so why not just use a device that has that functionality already built in.
Mechanical mods don't fail as easily without wires and solder. They work great with typical low resistance cartos, CE4 clearos, Vivi Novas and Kanger top and bottom coil tanks, and are most likely to be working after you drop 'em. They have been popular for years before RBA's existed, but recent RBA interest and possible ecig restrictions made their power handling and durability more attractive. VV is fine too, just a matter of preference. Many of us enjoy both.
i have a magneto and protank 2's that i rebuild between 1.8-2.3 ohms and it works great
For me it was more about learning HOW to use whatever I was using than anything else. I learned fairly quickly what I wanted my vape to be like, and the question became HOW many different ways can I make that same vape happen, and what are the most efficient ways to do it.
As a result mechanical, VV, or VW, it simply doesn't matter, I know how to get the vape I want either way.
As a result mechanical, VV, or VW, it simply doesn't matter, I know how to get the vape I want either way.
I've been vaping mech mods long before sub ohm became the "thing to do". Mechanicals were around long before any VV/VW device and a good mechanical will last you years longer than any VV/VW device especially if it came out of asia.
You're overthinking this...
Honestly I've done the same in the past so don't feel bad. A mechanical is nothing more than a tube with a switch and generally a 510 connection on top, if you can use an eGO you can certainly use a Mechanical. If you like consistency like that if a regulated vape you can also purchase a kick which can give you that regulated vape in any mechanical housing you like.
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Just to offer my .02, I used a Protank with 1.8 ohm coils on my mech, for a while. It's prolly just my chain vaping style, but I went through those pretty quick, and found myself rewinding Protank coils a lot. Still have a big collection of them. It might work for you depending on how you vape, and how much you vape, I got very nice clouds out of my Protank on my mech, but eventually it was time for an RBA. My Protank hasn't been used in a long time now.
You might want to consider just ordering a Vamo or something like it. It's a practical mod for many types of atomizers and will serve you well.
BTW, I have a Magneto, which I used for 1 day and put it on craigslist. Didn't like the button.
You might want to consider just ordering a Vamo or something like it. It's a practical mod for many types of atomizers and will serve you well.
BTW, I have a Magneto, which I used for 1 day and put it on craigslist. Didn't like the button.
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I have a magneto and I used my K3's on it until I got my agga-t now it lives on my magneto permanently. I personally like mods for tanks and my vv/vw for dripping.
I went back to my trusty old Sigelei 24, and it's working just fine for me.
I hear ya I've got my 13a right next to me. I think I paid 23 dollars for it, it hasn't misfired once since I got it, feels great in the hand.
Why am I overthinking this? Because I can get the vape I want from almost anything?
Give me a PV ... any PV, and I will make it work the way I want.
If it uses a 3.7V batt, that's all your going to get without circuitry to boost amperage, a mod without circuitry is just a mod.
NO-NO-NO the circuitry boosts VOLTAGE, the amperage the battery is capable of is the amperage you have to work with. That's why "high drain" (IMR) batteries are suggested for regulated (VV VW) PV's.
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