Mechanical mod for newbies

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kerby82mex

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Jan 28, 2016
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I'm not new in general. I'm new in mech mod.

I already build coil, I already understand how much wattage or volt to use with a mod box. And i do understand the concept behind battery ampers and the risk that can be involved.

For example to me if I use a battery that can provide up to 35 amper with a mech mod using 4.2 volt and .5 ohm resistance I should be ok.

I just want to investigate before starting this new world.

The rebuildable world and box mod are also in my skill.
 

Susan~S

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Couple of things worth noting.
  • There are no batteries/cells with a CDR higher than 30A.
  • Dual claptions will perform much better on a regulated mod due to the chips ability to "boost" the battery voltage and maintain it until the battery needs recharging.
  • With a mech, as the battery drains (i.e. each time you fire it), so does the performance of your build.
When considering how low you can build you need to give yourself some headroom. I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A battery (like the Sony VTC4/5), that would be 10A. This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a 0.4Ω build is as low as I would want to use.

The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, a 20A battery may only be a 10A battery."

With a 30A battery (like the LG HB6), 0.28Ω is the lowest I would build.

======

I highly recommend you spend some time with @Baditude & @Mooch (two of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit their blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Here are some of his blog links I often post for others:
And below are several links to Baditude's blogs. The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

#9. Battery Basics for Mods: The Definitive Battery Guide for Vaping
  • A popular and essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.
#17. Purple Efest Batteries Not As Advertised
  • A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes an important commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.
OHM'S LAW

#14. Ohm's Law Explained for Vapers
  • My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in simple layman terms and how it relates to vaping.
#16. Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
  • As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.
BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
 
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Chips177

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Definitely keep the claptons in a vv/vw device. At .4Ω you'll be pushing about 42w with no voltage drop (and there will be voltage drop). That's basically 21w per coil, and with claptons, that's next to nothing. I would personally stick to twisted or parallel builds.

As to your question, what type are you looking for? You said box mods are "in your skill," does that mean you want a box mech? They are generally safer if using a parallel battery box, so that's a plus.
 

suprtrkr

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+1. Claptons will be hard to tolerate on a one battery tube mech because the ramp time is long. You'll do better with slick wire or twists using 28 or 30ga wire. On the Lush, if building for flavor, you'll probably find the sweet spot in the .7-.8 range; for cloud-- as much cloud as you can get out of a mech-- .5ish is where you want to be. You start running into voltage drop problems much lower. As to mechs, let me suggest you avoid "faux hybrid" top caps at all cost. This is one where the atomizer 510 makes direct battery contact. Safe(r) mechs have a 510 center pin. If you're just starting, let me suggest you start with a clone. I am partial to the Nemesis clones, myself. A lot of people Like the King V2. For a decent authentic mech that won't break the bank, look at a Wotofo Phanton, but be sure to use the center pin cap. It's easy to spend hundreds of dollars on a top quality authentic mech. I own several, and I think they're worth the money. But I don't suggest you start there. First make sure you really want to. Mechs are a lot of fun, but they're also finicky, hard to build well, and easily out-performed by regulateds.
 

suprtrkr

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A photo of the top caps, center pin cap to the left. Those happen to be from a Wotofo Phantom.
20160128_123051[1].jpg

20160129_151013[1].jpg
 
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petrotech

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Looks like you have lots of good info to go over from the posts above mine, I'll just add a little:

Claptons are no fun on mech mods. WAY too much ramp up time. Like...literally it takes 30 seconds to get any kind of vapor.

My "go to" build is a dual 26 gauge contact coil. 7 wraps around a 2.5 mm screwdriver. Comes out to about .5 ohms.

Good luck!
 

sofarsogood

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Mechs were on my road map until about 4 months ago when I decided it isn't worth the risks. How about a mech with a kick in the tube that protects against shorts, reverse battery, etc. You don't have to tell anybody it's protected. Let em think you're daring but you really aren't.

A couple of times a week I find a news story about somebody getting injured by an ecig. 99% of the time it's a mech mod being used by a young male. I'm not so young but I don't want to join that club.
 

bwh79

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Mechs were on my road map until about 4 months ago when I decided it isn't worth the risks. How about a mech with a kick in the tube that protects against shorts, reverse battery, etc. You don't have to tell anybody it's protected. Let em think you're daring but you really aren't.

A couple of times a week I find a news story about somebody getting injured by an ecig. 99% of the time it's a mech mod being used by a young male. I'm not so young but I don't want to join that club.
Mechs are safe enough if you understand the risks and how to minimize them. It's really about treating your battery right, which is important with any device be it a mech, regulated mod, a cell-phone/laptop, a self-balancing scooter, or an RC helicopter.
 

kerby82mex

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Jan 28, 2016
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Thanks for the precious information.

I was looking for this suggestions. The first one was about where to buy authentic batteries, I was trying amazon but reading the reviews I was a bit doubtful. I will look into the website you provided.

I understand the ohm law and I have an ohmmeter, I don't want to go with too low resistance. I'm a flavor chaser so I will go with a .8-.9 resistance. I do like clapton coils for flavors in that case I guess a two batteries mech mod is better, i was thinking about a tugboat.

Do you have any list of famous mod that can be bought for under 40 dollars?
 

Gabe the Vaper

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Feb 17, 2016
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Hi,

I would like to buy a mechanical mod and use sony batteries vtc4/vtc5.

I would use a lush RDA with a double clapton coil at .4-.8.

Before trying and buying I would like to know which are the best practice for security and any guideline to start.
A single 18650 mech mod would be fine for you. I started vaping using a mech mod and it was amazing. A Rune mod by beyond vape is a great mod to start off with or a KSS or CAM mod from kryptonite vapor
 

Cacique

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A single battery mech isn't gonna cut it for claptons. I run dual claptons, ~.3 ohm resistance. 24g single core, 32g wrap, 5 wraps at 3mm. I have to push over 70w for these coils to shine, and I usually vape them between 85-100w. IMO a regulated is a must for claptons as I have to push around 5v to my coils to fire like they should.
 
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