Mechanical Mod-Newbie Questions

[newvap4me]

Hi,
I am looking at getting a mechanical mod, but I am hoping to have more clarification on how they work. I did look at the safe vaping ohm chart, watched a few videos related to ecigs and ohms law, and read a few articles about the basic understanding of mods.
I was looking at getting a mod device using an 18350 battery and tatroe tank 2.2 ohm atty.

1) Mechanical mods are not regulated so should I be worried about injuring myself, other than matching the right voltage with the right resistance?
2) Do I need to worry about blowing up the atty?
3) Is the battery size standard? For example does any 18350 battery fit on any mod that says to use an 18350 battery?
4) What exactly does top firing mod mean? Does it mean I have the drip tip in mouth and push down on the top of the mod?
5) Is there any way to lock the mod so it does not accidentally start when in my pocket?
6) Is there anything else I need to consider?
7) Any recommendations for a specific mod and a tank? I am looking to get one no longer than 4 inches, but preferably 3-3.5 inches, not including the tank.

Thanks for all of your responses.

 

[JohnnyPrimus]

1) Mechanical mods are not regulated so should I be worried about injuring myself, other than matching the right voltage with the right resistance?

As long as the voltage and resistance is correct you should be fine.

2) Do I need to worry about blowing up the atty?

See above

3) Is the battery size standard? For example does any 18350 battery fit on any mod that says to use an 18350 battery?

18xxx is a size standard, so anything wanting an 18350 should be able to use any 18350. There are some high drain batteries more suited to vaping, IE an AW IMR 18350/18650

5) Is there any way to lock the mod so it does not accidentally start when in my pocket?

I know some mods do this. K100s have a threaded locking ring that you can lower to prevent accidental firing.

7) Any recommendations for a specific mod and a tank? I am looking to get one no longer than 4 inches, but preferably 3-3.5 inches, not including the tank.

I'm a huge fan of K100s and K101 for the price. Fasttech has them for about 20 bucks. They also have some other clones people seem to like. The size of the mod will also be dependent on the battery you use with it. Look for something that fits 18350s.

 

[Moogle]

You can get mini-mech mods from some vendors. There are also drop in devices to regulate voltage/wattage and to provide short/overheat/overdrain protection. I vape a Puresmoker Legacy with a Kick. The Kick 2 just came out. There is also a cheaper knockoof of the Kick by Sigelei. Also you can get basic "disk" fuses that drop in the tube above the battery for minimal protection that does not regulate the battery output if you are looking for full mech, sub-ohm vaping.

Do your research and spend your money wisely. I haven't delved into the cheaper mech mods but for the price you probably can't go wrong. I can see my Legacy lasting for many, many years. No LCD screen or wiring/electronics to break. If the Kick goes out, oh well, I'm out $45 but my mod lives on.... Good luck.

 

[patnmel458]

K101 is not a bad mod for the price!

 

[GrandSam]

I'm fairly new to mechs as well, but so far I prefer them over VV/VW

1. Use protected batteries for mechs, that is the best way to avoid an injury (yes, some atomizers, etc. may give off a burnt taste, but that's the tradeoff you make with a mechanical mod)
2. I would worry more about blowing up the battery due to over drainage...use protected batteries. As for the atty, if it tastes burnt stop using it and save it for your VV/VW device
3. Typically yes, if it says "18350" it should run any 18350. Apparently some will only work with flat tops but I have yet to encounter an issue in any of my mechs, using button tops. Some mods telescope and can accept almost any battery
4. Not quite sure, maybe this refers to something like the Omega where the top cap also acts as a plunger. Depressing it down causes the pin to come in contact with the positive end of your battery, which in turn fires it.
5. Most mechanical mods offer some sort of locking feature whether it be a lock ring or "turn to lock" button. Most mods also come with fairly stiff springs so it should not be an issue even if they are left unlocked
6. Use protected batteries...I can not stress that enough. In the future you may want to consider a "Kick" which allows you to adjust wattage just like a VW device
7. I always recommend starting cheap and working your way up. For many, mech's are a love or hate thing. Get a cheap chinese clone and if you like it, upgrade. Check out Fasttech they have many of them. I can recommend a few such as the V3, Sentinel (the one on FT is a clone but hits just as hard), k100/k101

 

[State O' Flux]

7) Any recommendations for a specific mod and a tank? I am looking to get one no longer than 4 inches, but preferably 3-3.5 inches, not including the tank.

Thanks for all of your responses.

As your first questions have been very well covered by previous posters, I'll run with the last question because I notice the mod I'm currently in love with has yet to be mentioned. The Kamry K101 IMO, is one of the nicest, low buck mods out there... but I need to toss another relatively new, but great mech into the conversation... the Smoktech "Magneto".
Yes, another tube mod and yes, the lowest price is around $35 - but the magnetic firing button separates it from all the spring loaded button mods by providing a button "feel" that, by itself warrants buying one.
The feel of the mag button cannot be described - the soft yet firm, consistent magnetic draw has to be felt to be appreciated. With a Kick, it's an absolute joy to use.

C

 

[Steam Turbine]

I'm fairly new to mechs as well, but so far I prefer them over VV/VW

1. Use protected batteries for mechs, that is the best way to avoid an injury (yes, some atomizers, etc. may give off a burnt taste, but that's the tradeoff you make with a mechanical mod)

The standard in mech vaping is not to use protected batteries but safer chemistry battery. IMR Batteries is a safe chem battery and does not need protection. If the taste is burnt it is due to user error and it is not a trade off that anyone as to live with. I seriously doupt that a 3.7 volt unregulated device can burn any kind of liquid if used with a regular atomizer... Quite the contrary, the vape should be extremely weak.

2. I would worry more about blowing up the battery due to over drainage...use protected batteries. As for the atty, if it tastes burnt stop using it and save it for your VV/VW device

Again, safe chemistry batteries dont blow up, they get burning hot if they fail and then died but they wont blow up. Li ion batteries on the other hand could blow up if the protection fails

3. Typically yes, if it says "18350" it should run any 18350. Apparently some will only work with flat tops but I have yet to encounter an issue in any of my mechs, using button tops. Some mods telescope and can accept almost any battery

Thats right

6. Use protected batteries...I can not stress that enough. In the future you may want to consider a "Kick" which allows you to adjust wattage just like a VW device

again... AW IMR unprotected batteries are the norm. Do not use ANY li-ions unprotected batteries but IMR are fine.

If you are going to use a mech to run regular atomizers, clearomizer, cartos and so one, a Kick will give you the most out of your atomizer. An unkicked mech mod using regular atomizers actually kinda sucks.

 

[LadyVaper]

As your first questions have been very well covered by previous posters, I'll run with the last question because I notice the mod I'm currently in love with has yet to be mentioned. The Kamry K101 IMO, is one of the nicest, low buck mods out there... but I need to toss another relatively new, but great mech into the conversation... the Smoktech "Magneto".
Yes, another tube mod and yes, the lowest price is around $35 - but the magnetic firing button separates it from all the spring loaded button mods by providing a button "feel" that, by itself warrants buying one.
The feel of the mag button cannot be described - the soft yet firm, consistent magnetic draw has to be felt to be appreciated. With a Kick, it's an absolute joy to use.

C

I am sending you a PM

 

[GrandSam]

The standard in mech vaping is not to use protected batteries but safer chemistry battery. IMR Batteries is a safe chem battery and does not need protection. If the taste is burnt it is due to user error and it is not a trade off that anyone as to live with. I seriously doupt that a 3.7 volt unregulated device can burn any kind of liquid if used with a regular atomizer... Quite the contrary, the vape should be extremely weak.

Again, safe chemistry batteries dont blow up, they get burning hot if they fail and then died but they wont blow up. Li ion batteries on the other hand could blow up if the protection fails

Thats right

again... AW IMR unprotected batteries are the norm. Do not use ANY li-ions unprotected batteries but IMR are fine.

If you are going to use a mech to run regular atomizers, clearomizer, cartos and so one, a Kick will give you the most out of your atomizer. An unkicked mech mod using regular atomizers actually kinda sucks.

Thank you, I should have clarified. When I say "Protected" I mean use batteries with some form of protection, whether it be a protection board or safe chemistry batteries.

 

[newvap4me]

Thanks everybody for your recommendations.
I just received a Sigelei 8w, 18350 and kick clone. Now I just need to wait for my battery charger and then figure out how it all works together. I also got a 7amp fuse and K100. I will post again once I start using it.

 

[newvap4me]

Well Thank you everybody that replied to this post. Both the 8w and the K100 are great devices, the 8W with it polished look and excellent kick when using it, the kick clone won't fit in it. The K100 kicks hard also and does fit the 7amp fuse and the kick clone, but doesn't look as nice as the 8w.

 

[truckingirrl]

i am glad you asked that question about batteries i am waiting on some i ordered unprotected and was second guessing myself now that i read all the posts im ok thanks everyone

 

[Baditude]

There is a common misconception about the meaning of "unprotected" in batteries.

• This can mean a safe chemistry IMR (Li Mn), which requires no further protection because of its safer chemistry. It may vent gas, but not flame or blow up.

• This can also mean an unprotected Li Ion, whose chemistry can become unstable and volatile when hard-shorted, resulting in flames and possibly an explosion. These are never safe to use in any mod. Some of these have Li Cr or Li Ni chemistries and not meant for mod use. I've seen these for sale on FastTech.

Before you purchase any battery for a mod, make sure it is either an IMR Li Mn, a protected Li Ion, or a hybrid/IMR.

Do not assume an ICR/NCR Li Ion battery is protected if it does not specifically say so in the product description.