Just recently I bought a jeweled king mechanical mod and while using it the other day the button started getting hot. I took the entire thing apart switch and all, cleaned it, and tested the atty and mod with DMM and came up with no shorts. I have no idea why it could be heating up but I'm a little disappointed because i have been really looking forward to using this mod but haven't been able to really use it without fear of battery failure.
Mod body and button getting hot!
- Thread starter KingApollo
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It's a .2 build and the battery is heating up. I haven't let it get hot but it's definitely heating up
What battery(s) are you using? brand name / mah / cdr.
What are you using to measure resistance?
Inexpensive dmm / dvom/ box type can be as inaccurate as .2 (normal) or as accurate as .015 (rare).
What are you using to measure resistance?
Inexpensive dmm / dvom/ box type can be as inaccurate as .2 (normal) or as accurate as .015 (rare).
It is admittedly an inexpensive dmm but I have verified it with an ohm reader. The battery is 2600 mAH 38 amp imren.
There are no, none, zero, zip, nada 18650 batteries on the market with a CDR greater than 30a verified by manufacturer spec sheets and accurate reliable interdependent testing.
Here is the only thing Ive been able to find on Imren 18650 so called 38amp.
As you can see it is a very good 5a CDR battery and is a horrible battery at their other rating points.
Bottom line, you are severely over stressing the battery.
Either build a much higher resistance coil or buy good batteries with the appropriate CDR for your intended use from reputable suppliers / vendors.
Here is the only thing Ive been able to find on Imren 18650 so called 38amp.
As you can see it is a very good 5a CDR battery and is a horrible battery at their other rating points.
Bottom line, you are severely over stressing the battery.
Either build a much higher resistance coil or buy good batteries with the appropriate CDR for your intended use from reputable suppliers / vendors.
Well, there is no 18650 battery with a CDR higher than 30A that anyone can verify.
Looks like it's time to purchase a new battery with known specs from a respected vendor. Check out Baditudes blog for a list of batteries. Forget about finding a Sony VTC5, they are not around.
Battery Basics for Mods
- choose the safest and right battery for your applications here. Includes a list of name brand, high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries with mAh & amp ratings in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes.
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
Looks like it's time to purchase a new battery with known specs from a respected vendor. Check out Baditudes blog for a list of batteries. Forget about finding a Sony VTC5, they are not around.
Battery Basics for Mods
- choose the safest and right battery for your applications here. Includes a list of name brand, high-drain, safe-chemistry batteries with mAh & amp ratings in 18350, 18490/18500, and 18650 sizes.
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
the Imren 33A actually does better on tests that the 38A and can nearly do 40A unlike the 38A, these batteries look good from what I can see so can't imagine it's the battery. You might have a lot of loss though and this could be causing the problem. Try a 0,3 ohm or higher coil
Depends on your intended use,
Orbtronic sx30 2100mah 30a CDR.
Sony VTC4 2100mah 30a CDR.
Xtar 2100mah 30a CDR - re wrapped vtc4.
AW 1600mah 24a CDR.
Orbtronic sx22 2000mah 22a CDR
AW 2200mah 20A CDR.
LG he2 2500mah 20a cdr
Samsung 25r 2500mah 20a CDR.
I'll go one step further. Since you're building 0.2 Ohm resistance (or there about) you'll be pulling 21 amps on a freshly charged 4.2V battery. If you are going to do this you need a battery with continuous discharge rate of higher than 21 amps. The Sony VTC4, VTC5, or equivalent will do it. It looks like the battery you have currently has a CDR of somewhere near 5 amps. Like many have said, you're over taxing your battery and wading into very dangerous territory.
Assuming you bought an authentic Jeweled King, I would not be too concerned about that mod getting hot. Mine does the same thing because there is nothing insulting the RDA from the tube. I have no idea about the clone (I hate clones) but it stands to reason that it probably has the same quirks. If it was my mod, I would put a voltage drop tester on it and see what your voltage loss is. If that checks out fine and your RDA build is ohmed out where you want it, vape on.
I tried to give you the benefit of the doubt when others were knocking you, but now you're giving bad advice. Clone or not, it's already been shown that the battery is betting over taxed. Checking the voltage drop and then "vaping on" is great way to end up with a hole in the head. These situations are always best approached from the side of caution, especially when you're already teetering on the edge.
Like others have said, imren batteries aren't a trusted source and I believe they aren't anywhere near 38a continuous. I'd just go buy a new trusted battery ASAP like a Sony vtc(30a) or a Samsung 25r (20 a) or lg he2 (20 a). I wouldn't use that battery at all anymore since there aren't any results on it showing the true CDR on it. Just my 2c.
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