MOD Help: Kylin Clone with a hot button

[Dontyaknow]

Recently got a Kylin mod Clone and after 4 days the button started getting hot when pressed.

Using a SonyVTC4 on a .28build in a Raiju rda - the Raiju is fine, using it in one of my other mods now, same with the battery.

The battery remains cool, while the button gets really hot. I have tried doing some research, and I fear I have exhausted all my options. Tried it with a different spring, and without a spring all-together. Gave all the contacts a real clean, adjusted all the threading tolerances...still nothing. If anything it seems like its now even hotter than before I tried to fix it.

Would greatly appreciate any help and advice that anyone may have!

 

[Pattycakusu]

I've always wondered this too. Before i sold it to my friend, i've always put a patriot or nimbus on it and it worked fine. When my friend used it with his igo-w, the button got hot. I immediately put my patriot on and it fired fine. So i'm clueless too! Hope someone knows what's up.

 

[Dontyaknow]

I have tried my two different IGOs and my Raiju, all are getting the same hot button. Cant say for sure though if its the same with all of them

 

[Ryedan]

Recently got a Kylin Mod Clone and after 4 days the button started getting hot when pressed.

Using a SonyVTC4 on a .28build in a Raiju RDA - the Raiju is fine, using it in one of my other mods now, same with the battery.

The battery remains cool, while the button gets really hot. I have tried doing some research, and I fear I have exhausted all my options. Tried it with a different spring, and without a spring all-together. Gave all the contacts a real clean, adjusted all the threading tolerances...still nothing. If anything it seems like its now even hotter than before I tried to fix it.

Would greatly appreciate any help and advice that anyone may have!

I don't have one Dontyaknow, but if the switch is getting hot, you have resistance between two contact surfaces somewhere in that switch. There is nothing else it can be.

I did a quick Google on 'Kylin e cig hot switch' and got nothing. I have never had a hot switch in any of my mech mods, but I take apart the switch assemblies monthly and give everything a good clean. The Nemesis has silver plated contacts and the K100 has chrome or nickel plate. They all need only a wipe with paper towel or cloth wet with alcohol. I never use anything abrasive because I don't want to wear off the plating.

So make sure you have taken that switch apart all the way and that all contact surfaces are clean. The threads are contact surfaces also. Every mating surface in the electric pathway counts here.

Sorry I can't help more than that.

 

[happydave]

could be an electrical arc. had this happen to the switch on a mech once. the switch did not make a solid connection but it was close enough for the electricity to jump through the air. made the switch really really hot after 1 or 2 drags and the battery was not hot at all.

look for little black dots on the contact points of the switch...

 

[smokinwheels]

One of the two possible explanations above is almost certainly correct. When I took my kylin switch apart, I noticed what looked like machine oil down inside the female side of the threading that captures the contact screw. Ran all parts through ultrasonic to clean them out.

As to the possibility of an arc to the contact screw, given the way the kylin is designed, that seems likely, too. Try loosening the contact screw a turn or two so that when the button is pressed, the screw clearly protrudes beyond the delrin insulator. If that solves the issue for you, then disassemble, add a *small* o-ring to the screw, and re-assemble. This will shorten the throw and keep the contact screw head closer to the bottom of your battery. Alternatively, you could (carefully) sand down the delrin insulator just a hair or two.

Hope one of these solutions helps. I *love* this little mod. Huge bang for the buck and so tiny!

--Steve

PS: Anyone have any bead on where we might find magnets for this switch?