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I don't know how this can be but it just brought a totally dead 901 atty back to life.
It glowed from the get go. Just won't give me squat for vapor. 4 of 6 of my attys have been like this.
After the dry burn did you drip 2 drops on the atomizer bridge? When the atty is very dry it won't wick. You must get the mesh wet in order to produce vapor. If you just insert a cart it will eventually get moisty and start to wick, but it takes a lot longer.
It will glow regardless of sizzling at 4.97 volts (Bartleby). This is with a 3-ohm TW atomizer (verified on multimeter).
In this scenario I just hold it at a low orange glow for a few seconds to dry, then start the pulse burning process.
Results are the same as when I did it with 2.2-2.4 ohm atomizers from cignot.
I had to write something...
My M401 atty is now better than new!
Had to wait a bit till the juice soaked it completely - it didn't want to give vapor at first, but man what it does now... !!!
I think I am getting dizzy from all that vapor
Once again, thanks to the forum and all the great advices and ideas I got from it!
My M401 atty is now better than new!
Had to wait a bit till the juice soaked it completely - it didn't want to give vapor at first, but man what it does now... !!!
I think I am getting dizzy from all that vapor
Once again, thanks to the forum and all the great advices and ideas I got from it!
I encountered a problem.
I was doing the process for a 901 atty. The first burn seemed to go well, so I took the atty back to the sink for the second rinse.
Now the atty is well dried out but seems completely dead- nothing happens at all when I engage the battery. I tried my 2 current batteries to the same effect.
Anything I can do here?
I was doing the process for a 901 atty. The first burn seemed to go well, so I took the atty back to the sink for the second rinse.
Now the atty is well dried out but seems completely dead- nothing happens at all when I engage the battery. I tried my 2 current batteries to the same effect.
Anything I can do here?
yes buy a new one. they are cheap, buy 6 at a time like I do. Honestly, I tried this method 5 times, and threw out 5 attys. they never worked the same afterward, in fact worked worse. obviously everyone has different results, but best results I've gotten is using the crest mouthwash and even then, its just prolonging the life until the new ones arrive in the mail.
Yes, if i'm sure this is the point of no return i'll just break in a new one.
I just want to be sure it is the point of no return.
Sorry to hear the technique never works for you- this is the second time of 5 times it didnt go well for me, but I had success on 3 burnt tasting attys.
Not sure about the construction of the 901 atty, but mine (M401) after the burnout had to use something sharp to lift a bit the inside contact. It seems the high temperature causes the inside contact to fall a bit deep and doesn't reach the battery afterward.
Just use a paper clip or something else sharp to lift the inside contact a little bit, being careful not to damage the atty completely.
Thats what happened to me and how I solved the issue, hope it helps.
wow!!! thought i'd give this a shot and a dead 801 came back to life!!! one thing that i learned when re-priming is to keep adding drops and checking that the glow is still happening till you start to hear that familiar sizzle. then it's good to go from there.
thanks!
thanks!
I have had good luck, with Peroxide, leave the atty soaking for a few hours, rinse well, and drain, then blow with canned air that can be purchased at Wal-Mart, blow through both ends. When I am going to retire the att for a bit, I blow out with canned air, cap it. So far I stay in the game with this method. I do use blue foam, seems to work well on all my diff. attys.
Since the idea here is to loosen and dissolve the solids impacted on the atomizer coil with a liquid soak, to then burn off whatever is left and to finally dissolve these remnants with another soak, what if we place the atomizers in a ceramic container filled with water or possibly PG and microwave the container?
We all know not to microwave anything made of metal because there will be arcing and heating of the metal, especially thin pieces of metal like our atomizer coils are made from. Isn't this precisely what we want to do to the atomizer coils? I believe the atomizer coils will get hot and radiate the heat to the liquid. If this doesn't break the coil wires or destroy the oven's magnetron I would expect this to be an ideal scenario for cleaning the coils.
We all know not to microwave anything made of metal because there will be arcing and heating of the metal, especially thin pieces of metal like our atomizer coils are made from. Isn't this precisely what we want to do to the atomizer coils? I believe the atomizer coils will get hot and radiate the heat to the liquid. If this doesn't break the coil wires or destroy the oven's magnetron I would expect this to be an ideal scenario for cleaning the coils.
Great guide. This is pretty close to how I do it. I would however add one step.
I find that often times the problem is that the wick gets crusted up with old dried up juice. I've seen many people pull the wick out and diagnose it at being burnt. The fact is that the "burnt" look is actually crusted juice and not a burnt wick. The wick is silica and does not actually burn. I find that you cant really clean a wick with a rinse, but just soaking overnight in water will loosen the gunk up enough that it will rinse out. I usually do an overnight soak, then fill the large end up with hot water like a cup and blow it through a few times. This gets the wick back to %100. I then move on to the dry burns and you know the rest.
I find that often times the problem is that the wick gets crusted up with old dried up juice. I've seen many people pull the wick out and diagnose it at being burnt. The fact is that the "burnt" look is actually crusted juice and not a burnt wick. The wick is silica and does not actually burn. I find that you cant really clean a wick with a rinse, but just soaking overnight in water will loosen the gunk up enough that it will rinse out. I usually do an overnight soak, then fill the large end up with hot water like a cup and blow it through a few times. This gets the wick back to %100. I then move on to the dry burns and you know the rest.
Is this a "sticky"? cause it should be. Now, first of all I want to thank highping for this one. Maybe a lot of people have already said this, but here it is:
I've tried several methods before (not going to tell which ones cause I don't want to "attack" them) but this method is THE ONE.
C'mon people, just follow the steps, they are very simple and it really helps. Today I was in the middle of this process with a three months old 510 when a couple of new ones came to my door. I finished cleaning the old one and then compared it with the new ones, I just couldn't see any difference, both the coil and the wick were all clean, just as the new ones (you know that white color) they really look the same, beautiful!!!
And when I used them the new ones were worst than the old one (you know that new ones have to break in), but as soon as they started to break in, I couldn't tell any difference between new and old attys.
And you don't need to deal with other messy ingredientes, I just use a little glass with some distilled water and use a syringe to run the water through the atty with a help from an O ring from an old cartomizer. And instead of blowing through the atty to get rid of excess juice/water, I use the "taryn spin" method. I just put a condom from a cartomizer but leaving enough space to "catch" the excess.
Beautiful!!!
Thanks again highping
I've tried several methods before (not going to tell which ones cause I don't want to "attack" them) but this method is THE ONE.
C'mon people, just follow the steps, they are very simple and it really helps. Today I was in the middle of this process with a three months old 510 when a couple of new ones came to my door. I finished cleaning the old one and then compared it with the new ones, I just couldn't see any difference, both the coil and the wick were all clean, just as the new ones (you know that white color) they really look the same, beautiful!!!
And when I used them the new ones were worst than the old one (you know that new ones have to break in), but as soon as they started to break in, I couldn't tell any difference between new and old attys.
And you don't need to deal with other messy ingredientes, I just use a little glass with some distilled water and use a syringe to run the water through the atty with a help from an O ring from an old cartomizer. And instead of blowing through the atty to get rid of excess juice/water, I use the "taryn spin" method. I just put a condom from a cartomizer but leaving enough space to "catch" the excess.
Beautiful!!!
Thanks again highping
Damn right it works.
Highping gets my vote for best innovation of the year in the Vapy Awards.
Not that he was the first person to think of this, but he was the one to put it out there.
Yes, the method is exact. I have my own and it's slightly different. I'm also giving an explanation of what's happening during the process
The method should be used just when the atomizer is not performing so well or when you can feel that damn bad taste even after washing it.
Ok so let's also have some atomizer basics. The resistance is wrapped around some fibreglass which, when the atty is new, appears white and has either the function to hold e-juice on the resistance and to cool it down. After just few milliliters of vaped juice these liquid getting heated get burned and clolour the fibres in black or dark colour. Most people think the fibres are burned but they are wrong. Is the liquid that is burned, since the fibres should melt at around 2000 °C, temperature not reachable by the resistance which usually runs at 500/600°C. I even tried burning the fibres whith a lighter.. They don't! They get black just because of the gas coming form the flame.
So! Let's get into business.
I'll take a 510 model for the explanation but can be done with every atomizer.
1 Remove cartridge or drip tip, and take out the excess liquid by blowing on the side where you'd attach the cartridge until no more comes out.
2 Put the atomizer under hot water for a minute ( water must flow directly on the bridge side), then you let the atomizer chamber fill with water and quickly blow from that side letting water come out from the battery side at a higher pressure. This will clear the bridge too. Blow on a paper again like step 1 until water stops coming out.
3 Connect the atomizer to your battery, and possibly charged at its maximum.
4 ( Don't insert cartridge or drip tip yet)Now put your mouth on the atomizer again, press the activation button and blow like step 2 for 10 seconds. do this 5 times. This because there might be some resiues of water, you should see them coming out from the atty's air valves. Remove the atomizer and dry the battery and atomizer contact if there's some water on it.
5 Drying: Now press the button and look inside the atomizer away from outside lights until you don't see the resistance turning to orange for two seconds then stop pressing the button and blow in the atty to cool it down and helping drying it.
6 Repeat step 5 from 8 to 10 times. The first times you'll notice it takes more time for the resistance to turn to orange ( don't worry, keep pressing on the button until it gets orange), it will be faster after each activation. It is possible that the first times the resistance will get orange only on the side, but doing it more will let it turn to the colour on the whole length. when the resistance get to orange in 1-2 seconds the drying procedure is complete.
7 Now it comes the REAL DRYBURN which will dissolve all the incrustations of liquid from the resistance and from the fibres.
Now press the button until the resistance get orange and keep it like that from 2 to 5 seconds or ( even less with a LR atty), then wait for the atomizer to cool down. You'll smell some burned stink, that is the incrustation dissolving. Do this 2 times.
8 Repeat from step 2 to step 7. Repeating is part of the method IT MUST BE DONE, this will take away all the reisidues of the incrustations deriving from dryburning.
Repeating will probably take you atomizer to life again getting away that awful burned flavour or improving the atomizer performance since they can decrease in time and most of the cases is for this phenomenon.
The method should be used just when the atomizer is not performing so well or when you can feel that damn bad taste even after washing it.
Ok so let's also have some atomizer basics. The resistance is wrapped around some fibreglass which, when the atty is new, appears white and has either the function to hold e-juice on the resistance and to cool it down. After just few milliliters of vaped juice these liquid getting heated get burned and clolour the fibres in black or dark colour. Most people think the fibres are burned but they are wrong. Is the liquid that is burned, since the fibres should melt at around 2000 °C, temperature not reachable by the resistance which usually runs at 500/600°C. I even tried burning the fibres whith a lighter.. They don't! They get black just because of the gas coming form the flame.
So! Let's get into business.
I'll take a 510 model for the explanation but can be done with every atomizer.
1 Remove cartridge or drip tip, and take out the excess liquid by blowing on the side where you'd attach the cartridge until no more comes out.
2 Put the atomizer under hot water for a minute ( water must flow directly on the bridge side), then you let the atomizer chamber fill with water and quickly blow from that side letting water come out from the battery side at a higher pressure. This will clear the bridge too. Blow on a paper again like step 1 until water stops coming out.
3 Connect the atomizer to your battery, and possibly charged at its maximum.
4 ( Don't insert cartridge or drip tip yet)Now put your mouth on the atomizer again, press the activation button and blow like step 2 for 10 seconds. do this 5 times. This because there might be some resiues of water, you should see them coming out from the atty's air valves. Remove the atomizer and dry the battery and atomizer contact if there's some water on it.
5 Drying: Now press the button and look inside the atomizer away from outside lights until you don't see the resistance turning to orange for two seconds then stop pressing the button and blow in the atty to cool it down and helping drying it.
6 Repeat step 5 from 8 to 10 times. The first times you'll notice it takes more time for the resistance to turn to orange ( don't worry, keep pressing on the button until it gets orange), it will be faster after each activation. It is possible that the first times the resistance will get orange only on the side, but doing it more will let it turn to the colour on the whole length. when the resistance get to orange in 1-2 seconds the drying procedure is complete.
7 Now it comes the REAL DRYBURN which will dissolve all the incrustations of liquid from the resistance and from the fibres.
Now press the button until the resistance get orange and keep it like that from 2 to 5 seconds or ( even less with a LR atty), then wait for the atomizer to cool down. You'll smell some burned stink, that is the incrustation dissolving. Do this 2 times.
8 Repeat from step 2 to step 7. Repeating is part of the method IT MUST BE DONE, this will take away all the reisidues of the incrustations deriving from dryburning.
Repeating will probably take you atomizer to life again getting away that awful burned flavour or improving the atomizer performance since they can decrease in time and most of the cases is for this phenomenon.
Unless I am looking wrong, my atty bridges are never white or black, but a silver color like the fine wire mesh found as the outer ground casing on some insulated wire.
New or old, they all look silver to me. I cannot see any difference. Must be looking at the wrong thing?
New or old, they all look silver to me. I cannot see any difference. Must be looking at the wrong thing?
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