My first Magnum, and a useful discovery

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duncantiv

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Apr 9, 2009
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Hey folks, just wanted to toot my own horn here (but there is some useful info too!)

First off, with many thanks to Madog for his instructional video, my first Magnum!
Picture413.jpg


I used one of the flashlights I got from this pack:
DealExtreme: $13.02 9 White LED Flashlight (Multicolored 7-pack)

I modded this for my BE112 atomizer using an audio jack for the connector:
1/4" mono Panel-Mount Audio Jack (2-Pack) - RadioShack.com

With a #6 brass screw and some insulative tubing, it made a pretty decent connector, though I had to grind most of the bottom part off to get it to fit.

For reference, I built this mod with this batt in mind:
Ultrafire 18500 1600mah 3.7v PROTECTED BUTTON TOP Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery Li-Ion UF18500

but eventually I'm going to mod it to use this batt:
Ultrafire 18650 3000mah BUTTON TOP Protected Rechargeable Lithium Battery Li-Ion UF18650-BRC

Given the greater length of the 18650, I'll be using a trick I found here:
Convert a 3xAAA flashlight to a Lithium 18650 cell

Unfortunately, I had been planning on using a 2 LED setup, using one as an indicator for the clicky switch on the end, so I'd know if it was on or off, but the space was too tight, so I had to abandon that plan. That's why there's an extra hole between the tactile switch and the LED. For a first attempt, I'm willing to live with it.

Now, on to the interesting thing I discovered. To replace the lens, I was using a piece of sheet aluminum I bought at HomeDepot, and hand grinding it down to the appropriate size. My second attempt:
Picture419.jpg


Halfway through the process, I got REALLY sick of it, and started brainstorming for an easier way. Then my eyes fell on a beer bottle cap laying on my coffee table. Out of frustration, I started checking the size to see if it could be easily modified to fit, when I discovered that it fit the end of my flashlight perfectly! No modding necessary (other than making a hole for the connector), it just forces on, and holds REALLY well!

To me, one of the bonuses of using these is that the cap can be pried off without too much trouble, so you can still get inside if you ever need to make a repair!

So, needless to say, I immediately started drilling, and PRESTO!
Picture416.jpg

Picture415.jpg


I don't know how well this will work with other flashlights, but it definitely works with the ones I got from DealExtreme. (It doesn't work with the cheapy $5 flashlight I got at a local convenience store)

Oh, and one other small item. If you use the jack I linked to, solder doesn't adhere too well to the metal. It does stick, but not much force is needed to break it off. I would suggest only grinding off what you absolutely need to, then (if you have access to a small dremel or a really small drill bit) make a hole in the side to run your wire through. Forgive the blurriness, but here's a pic I took to illustrate:
Picture.jpg


Of course, I got a couple of my neighbours hooked on vaping, so now they ALL want one! :oops: :lol:

Happy modding, folks!
 

duncantiv

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Apr 9, 2009
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Neat freak? *surveys the health hazard that is his apartment and the mess of parts and tools arrayed on his coffee table* No, definitely not one of those.

Actually, it's really funny, because I'm not much of a drinker, either. My almost-mother-in-law gave me that beer a month or two ago, and I just barely got around to drinking it last night. Funny how life works out, eh? ;)
 

Kewtsquirrel

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May 21, 2009
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moddersupply.com
You'll find when soldering onto the connectors you need to get them pretty hot duncan, if you can find a workaround like drilling a hole that'll work, but you *can* solder to them, it'll just take awhile to heat up and if you're using a hacked connector any bits of plastic might melt off.

A hotter soldering iron might help too, you can get decent adjustable ones that'll go up to 450*C for $20 or so.

You also may find that you need to sand down the lip a bit where your bottlecap is hanging over, the black anodizing will interfere with your ground connection and you may find spotty and/or lackluster performance. A quick dremel on both the body and your bottlecap to remove anything in the way would probably do wonders for ya :)

Theres a few other tricks, but if I spill em all here noone will watch my tutorials!
 

duncantiv

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Apr 9, 2009
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You'll find when soldering onto the connectors you need to get them pretty hot duncan, if you can find a workaround like drilling a hole that'll work, but you *can* solder to them, it'll just take awhile to heat up and if you're using a hacked connector any bits of plastic might melt off.
Ahhh, thanks for the tips. Luckily, to make the connector fit in the limited space I had, I already Dremmel-ed off all the plastic bits anyway, so melting wasn't an issue. As for the insulation between the outer connector and the screw I use for the positive connection, I used a bit of hose that was intended for use in a car engine, so I'd be surprised if I could make that melt!

A hotter soldering iron might help too, you can get decent adjustable ones that'll go up to 450*C for $20 or so.
Money's been way too tight recently, so I've been trying to avoid buying new tools where possible. Right now, I'm using a 25W that I got at RadioShack a few years ago, which manages to do the job, but I'm glad to hear that an adjustable is that cheap. A friend has been trying to talk me into making these mods for sale, so if I try that route, I'll definitely look to invest!

You also may find that you need to sand down the lip a bit where your bottlecap is hanging over, the black anodizing will interfere with your ground connection and you may find spotty and/or lackluster performance. A quick dremel on both the body and your bottlecap to remove anything in the way would probably do wonders for ya :)
I'll keep that in mind. I don't think I'll have to worry too much about any cap-tube connection issues, though. Per Madog's video, I'm using the circuit board that formerly held the LEDs for the flashlight. My connector (both positive and negative) is wired to that, and the board has solder bits that directly contact the inside of the tube for the negative. Also per his instructions, I added a bit of solder to each contact point to ensure good contact. In theory, the cap is irrelevant to the circuit. (I hope!)

Theres a few other tricks, but if I spill em all here noone will watch my tutorials!
Hmmmm.... *starts looking for nerf's tutorials*

Oh, one other small advantage of the caps that I almost forgot to mention. It actually give you a tiny bit of extra room to work with, so I may revisit the 2 LED setup again. Given my crappy memory, I keep forgetting to turn on the kill switch before I start trying to vape! :lol:
 
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seven

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Mar 28, 2009
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Very clever, seven. What did you use for insulation? I have a ton of those things lying around, so it'd be nice to make use of them. :D


i used a the plastic lower portion of the terminal like this below:

Female-Disconnect-Terminal.jpg

i cut off the lower portion, wire for around the stand-off (thanks nerf) and stuck the stand off into the plastic portion and it fit perfectly in the 1/4 phono jack.

for the red one i used a bullet terminal, hammered it down so it is flush with the plactic at the bottom and kinda flat at the tip, then i put i layer of heat shrink tubing and stuck it in the 1/4 phono jack and then crimped the positive wire. i found this one is easier to do but it is uglier.

095-326_t.jpg
 
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