my first mod, having difficulties. please help!

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Zander_47

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Nov 12, 2013
23
6
California
Ok. So my first mod has officially been built! Technically its my second, because I hooked a 510 up to a battery box to run it off AAs a couple weeks ago, but this is my first full build. My idea was very similar to the Fog Log which I've seen posted about on these forums. I hadn't heard of said device until I had began purchasing materials, but when I found it (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/thag-built-chuck/22961-fog-log.html) I decided to just follow the same layout since it had been used and proven before.

Everything went smoothly, I started by mounting a 510 connector into a copper pipe cap, then I drilled a brass flathead screw into a plastic circle to use as my positive connection. I then proceeded to connected the positive terminal to the switch and the switch to the heating element. So far, so good. Everything was looking clean, so I glued in the positive terminal and moved on to the final steps. I drilled a hole for the switch in the body (which is solid copper) and closed everything up. I placed a spring on the bottom cap (also copper) and popped in the battery, only to have my hopes and dreams core gaping bliss crushed... no vapor.

Luckily for me, I hadn't fully sealed it up yet! So I took it apart and began trying to trouble shoot it. I started off with the battery. I wired it straight to the heating element, and sure enough it works fine. I moved on to the switch, connecting it to the battery directly, and yep it works! So then my final thought is dang, I must have messed something up with the brass screw in that stupid plastic circle! But I decided to try one more thing. I thought to myself, there's no chance that I need to ground the negative end. Its connected to the bottom cap, and everything is made of copper! But I tried anyways. Opened up the bottom, slid in the battery, and connected everything as I did normally. Positive terminal to switch, switch to heating element.. but this time I had a wire from the negative on the battery to the heating element and I grounded it there. Bam! Its alive! Problem? If I ground it to the copper cap which the 510 connection is mounted in, I get nothing. I thought that was weird. I tried another idea... instead of having the grounding wire run from the battery to the heating element, I used an alligator clip to clamp it to the top of the device, on the opposite end from the battery, and ran the wire from the 510 connection to the body of the device. Still works fine. So what I can deduce is that the body is conducting just fine, but there is something wrong with the cap that the 510 connection is seated in. For the life of me, I can't figure it out. I even thought that perhaps I used too much glue or something, so I decided to glob a good chunk of solder in the gap between the heating element and the side of the cap, thinking that would be a good enough conductor. Well, it didn't work. It only worked when I attached an alligator clip to the solder itself, but even attaching it to the copper right next to the solder, it doesn't work. So there it is! My predicament. Sorry for the novel! And my apologies if I misused any terminology, I am new to this after all! Anyways, thanks to anyone brave enough to read through that whole thing. I appreciate it!
 

Visus

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Woot I love the copper pipe mods.

Copper oxidation is legendary it needs some sort of mechanical connection-- either soldered or those screws in the fog log wll help but eventually will oxidize as well.

Did you polish the copper? That would make a huge difference. Check out Breaktru, click his link in his signature (post #48in fog log post) he has made a few copper pipe mods..
 

Zander_47

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Nov 12, 2013
23
6
California
I cleaned out the tubing with warm water and mild dish soap, then immediately dried and buffed it lightly with a cotton towel. That count as polishing? Hmm so copper loses its conductivity as it oxidizes? I didn't know that! I looked into Breaktru and the posts he has and definitely something I will be reading up on quite a bit, thanks a ton
 

Visus

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I cleaned out the tubing with warm water and mild dish soap, then immediately dried and buffed it lightly with a cotton towel. That count as polishing? Hmm so copper loses its conductivity as it oxidizes? I didn't know that! I looked into Breaktru and the posts he has and definitely something I will be reading up on quite a bit, thanks a ton

Yeah he redid it and blew the brains out of it wih a 50w vv mod its awesome..

You have to sandpaper the copper in order to make it conduct the electrons soap and water made it worse lol...

I use a tens unit for my back with copper electrodes if I dont scuff them up every few days it doesn't work at all; Oxidation happens really fast..
 

Zander_47

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Nov 12, 2013
23
6
California
Damn.. hahaha I read somewhere ( I don't remember where) saying that the mild dishsoap would help prevent oxidation.. maybe it was lying to me though hahaha alright well I'm definitely going to try scuffing it up then, I'm taking it apart this weekend. Oh, also as an update, I think the wire I used was a bit too small? I thought I was using 18 gauge but I must have gotten the wrong gauge because I looked at my receipt and it was actually 22 gauge. I'm not familiar enough with wires to be able to tell the difference without comparing the two gauges side by side, so I just didn't realize it. Would this make a big difference? Either way, I'm changing the wires to 18 gauge this weekend as well. And as for how I secured the 510, I drilled the hole barely big enough for it, so it was a snug fit. Then just to be sure it would hold long term, I put some glue on the inside to hold it in place.
 

Zander_47

Full Member
Nov 12, 2013
23
6
California
i used this as the positive connection
this is where the battery slides in
<br>
it looks dirty because after I pushed the 510 into the cap (it was a snug fit) I put a bit of glue on the inside to make sure it would stay sturdy long term. Then I sanded some of the copper down (for the cutout) without realizing it hadn't fully dried and the shavings stuck to the glue
<br>
 

asdaq

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poland, and the brassy lands of google
Zander, if you check for resistance with a DMM, make sure that there is still good conductivity between the cap and the 510. Some glue may have seeped in between and you would see some resistance on the readout. You can check other points in the mod and make sure you are not getting any resistance anywhere else too.

If that all checks out, I wonder if the switch contacts are not shorting to either the 510 or the body somewhere in the cap. Having the extra wire in place for the negative is then working not so much as electrically completing the circuit, but by mechanically isolating the positive side of the circuit (the insulation on the wire is getting in between the spot that is shorting.)

That might not be it but it would be good to insulate the switch contacts no matter what as there is lot of potential to short on those.
 

Visus

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Damn.. hahaha I read somewhere ( I don't remember where) saying that the mild dishsoap would help prevent oxidation.. maybe it was lying to me though hahaha alright well I'm definitely going to try scuffing it up then, I'm taking it apart this weekend. Oh, also as an update, I think the wire I used was a bit too small? I thought I was using 18 gauge but I must have gotten the wrong gauge because I looked at my receipt and it was actually 22 gauge. I'm not familiar enough with wires to be able to tell the difference without comparing the two gauges side by side, so I just didn't realize it. Would this make a big difference? Either way, I'm changing the wires to 18 gauge this weekend as well. And as for how I secured the 510, I drilled the hole barely big enough for it, so it was a snug fit. Then just to be sure it would hold long term, I put some glue on the inside to hold it in place.

Lol
It was not lying to ya, thats without the water but then the thin film of soap will make a thin film resistance.
Your trying to get all the resistance out, we want mucho continuity 1st, then a soap film -- but when it oxidizes the soap makes the oxidation nastier ewww..
Best bet is a polishing cloth taken to it every couple of days or so at least once a month after you get all the continuity..
 

Zander_47

Full Member
Nov 12, 2013
23
6
California
SUCCESS! I'm not sure what exactly did it.. but I took a lot of it apart, put a new switch on (the contacts on the original broke when I took it apart) took the 510 out of the cap, cleaned everything with steel wool and re-mounted it with flux, solder, and a blowtorch. Then I used flux to clean the cap up nicely, along with where it meets the body (and inside the body a bit as well. I read it helps prevent oxidation?), and I insulated the contact points on the switch with electrical tape. Its hitting solid, but I haven't used a DMM yet, ill test that in the morning and see how everything reads. As for now, I'm quite happy with it! Thank you very much for all the wonderful advice, it definitely helped!

I almost forgot! I also changed out all the wiring and replaced the 22 gauge with 18 gauge. Not sure if that was necessary, but oh well!
 
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