My mechanical mod vibrates, please help.

[venomwolf]

hello everyone, im new here, this is my first thread and I really need a help quick.

so ive been vaping for about a year now. and been using multiple mods. so yesterday i bought a clone subzero shorty mechanical mod. I feel safe because Ive been using 2 subzero clones before this and they have no problems at all. however this one scared me.

its a full copper tube mech. I use dual parallel coils, 24g kanthal A1 wrapped 3x around the 30 rod easy coiler. not sure what the resistance is but Ive been rocking this build a couple of times before and its safe its supposed to be around 0.1ohms. I know its dangerous to not know what the resistance are in my coils but my ohmmeter been faulty.

anyway, today i fired the mod to show my friend how hard this mod hits (it hits very hard). However for some reason my mod vibrates like a phone notification when i fired the mod. then i tried it again and it vibrates again. it has vibrated 3 times now and im very scared. At the same time my friend and I noticed there was a little glowing thing in the airflow thing in the subzero rda. very near the copper contact screw. what could be the problem? Im very scared to vape now, please help out. thanks

 

[retired1]

Stop. Do not use ANY mechanical mod until you obtain a new meter and are able to check your builds.

Building new coils without checking them and then putting them into use is a very dangerous practice and should never, ever be done.

Not to mention, you are most likely exceeding the maximum CDR of your batteries with those builds. Another dangerous practice.

 

[440BB]

If nothing else, go back to where you bought the mod and buy a regulated mod that can check resistance. Not knowing coil resistance on a mechanical mod is a good way to end up in the hospital.

 

[Dieseler]

Ditto get a regulated mod and for those that cannot figure out there res have should not be using one.
It is very very dangerous.
Be safe.

 

[Zutankhamun]

Yep. That doesn't sound good.
Please either buy a new ohm reader, a regulated device, or perhaps use an existing regulated device to check your build.

Have you tried other batteries. It could be this particular cell that vibrates.

Even so, don't do it. Who cares how hard a mod hits when you're eating your dinner through a straw for the foreseeable future?

 

[Ablonz]

Please, please, PLEASE listen to the above mentioned. It is for your safety!!!!!

 

[venomwolf]

Yep. That doesn't sound good.
Please either buy a new ohm reader, a regulated device, or perhaps use an existing regulated device to check your build.

Have you tried other batteries. It could be this particular cell that vibrates.

Even so, don't do it. Who cares how hard a mod hits when you eating your dinner through a straw for the foreseeable future?

thanks, noted. i only have a cell which is the samsung 25R.

If its not the cell what could be other problems to this?
can the resistance being too low cause the vibration?

because the battery was used in my authentic rig mod and it was fine so i supposed its not the problem.

 

[rob33]

I expect you will get 100s of hits telling you to get an ohm meter and some knowledge. Hey the aftermath is what makes TV news.

 

[suprtrkr]

Im very scared to vape now

Good, you most certainly should be. I haven't got any idea why your mod is vibrating-- unless your battery is about to explode and you missed it by a hair-- but it is not a good sign.

FYI, a .1Ω build on a single 18650 tube mod is not a safe build. It doesn't even resemble one. At full charge battery you're drawing 42 amps; there's no battery in the world capable of withstanding that.

Don't even think of putting any build at all on a mech mod without measuring the coil first. Ever.

If you still have your face, congratulations. And good luck.

 

[rob33]

thanks, noted. i only have a cell which is the samsung 25R.

If its not the cell what could be other problems to this?
can the resistance being too low cause the vibration?

because the battery was used in my authentic rig mod and it was fine so i supposed its not the problem.

I can tell we're gonna have trouble out this guy. WE CAN NOT TELL YOU ANYTHING TILL WE KNOW WHAT OHM YOU ARE RUNNING!!

 

[venomwolf]

Good, you most certainly should be. I haven't got any idea why your mod is vibrating-- unless your battery is about to explode and you missed it by a hair-- but it is not a good sign.

FYI, a .1Ω build on a single 18650 tube mod is not a safe build. It doesn't even resemble one. At full charge battery you're drawing 42 amps; there's no battery in the world capable of withstanding that.

Don't even think of putting any build at all on a mech mod without measuring the coil first. Ever.

If you still have your face, congratulations. And good luck.

thank you for the reply, Im aware of mech safety, I know im running across the safety, and yes thats my part to blame obviously.

However I have just one question, this vibration doesnt happen everytime i pressed the button. which if it was a sign of the battery going to explode, shouldn't the battery be vibrating everytime I fired the mod?

 

[venomwolf]

Alright, everyone thank you for the replies. I have taken your advice and hence decided I will get my friend's regulated mod to check my resistance.

However Im still looking for the reason it vibrates and what the little glowing could be. Im sure its not the resistance that caused it, so what could it be?

 

[retired1]

You are stressing your battery. No single 18650 battery can be safely used with a low build such as you're using. Doesn't matter why the mod is buzzing. Until you have a safe build that is within the safe limits of your battery, you shouldn't even be firing it.

 

[Hightech Redneck]

Checking the resistance is a must, and making sure the coils fire evenly.
From your statement it sounds like they are not and you have a hot leg on a coil.
This is very bad as well, it can overheat then flex and short your deck causing a thermal runaway.
I am betting you have seen hundreds of videos where folks are building and firing immediately on a mech. This is a no no. The ones doing it have thousands of builds under their belt and know what to look for. This gives newer builders the wrong idea, always safety first.

Anyway, let us know what it ohms out at, and while checking it on the mod pulse it to check to see if the build is even.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Remove the battery, do not use any coils with a mechanical that have not been tested for shorts & resistance has been measured accurately.

The 'glow' could be the coil touching something it shouldn't, arching, hot leg, wicking smoldering, insulator cracked, melted or fubar, loose 510 pin or trap screws.
Vibration might be, spring or magnets in fire button, battery tension not adjusted properly, coil arching etc...

As batteries are used & age they lose capacity, when pushed to extremes
( past CDR) this takes place more rapidly. With a .1 coil every time you press the fire button you are damaging the cell internally.
If this cell has been used / abused in the same manner in other devices most likely it is near or at its end of useful life.


In other words, things a mechanical user should already know before pressing the fire button for the very first time.

 

[venomwolf]

Checking the resistance is a must, and making sure the coils fire evenly.
From your statement it sounds like they are not and you have a hot leg on a coil.
This is very bad as well, it can overheat then flex and short your deck causing a thermal runaway.
I am betting you have seen hundreds of videos where folks are building and firing immediately on a mech. This is a no no. The ones doing it have thousands of builds under their belt and know what to look for. This gives newer builders the wrong idea, always safety first.

Anyway, let us know what it ohms out at, and while checking it on the mod pulse it to check to see if the build is even.

hey thanks for the reply, but no there is no hotleg or hotspots in the build. yes it is very" low resistance. but other than that its a decent coil and ive been coiling since my first day vaping. so i doubt that any hotspots are there since ive checked my build and they fired evenly.

about the glowing spot, it is not in the coil, which is the reason why im concerned. I dont know if you are familiar with the subzero RDA or not but, the subzero is unique, below the actual building deck there is another compartment, its basically a huge open space for the airflow to go through. and this is also where the copper contact screw screws on. During the firing, I saw a small glowing in this compartment. Its almost as if there is a small wire piece stuck there, shorting the circuit. well its gone now and i stopped using the mod until I measure the resistance.
thanks anyway

 

[venomwolf]

Remove the battery, do not use any coils with a mechanical that have not been tested for shorts & resistance has been measured accurately.

The 'glow' could be the coil touching something it shouldn't, arching, hot leg, wicking smoldering, insulator cracked, melted or fubar, loose 510 pin or trap screws.
Vibration might be, spring or magnets in fire button, battery tension not adjusted properly, coil arching etc...

As batteries are used & age they lose capacity, when pushed to extremes
( past CDR) this takes place more rapidly. With a .1 coil every time you press the fire button you are damaging the cell internally.
If this cell has been used / abused in the same manner in other devices most likely it is near or at its end of useful life.


In other words, things a mechanical user should already know before pressing the fire button for the very first time.

hey, thanks for the suggestions on what the issues may be. Im quite aware of the things you have mentioned, except the coil arching and smoldering. would you mind explaining this? I couldnt find a clear description on google.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Wicking material smoldering - so much heat being produced & retained the wicking attempts to catch on fire but can't because it is saturated, so it smolders in extreme instances glows.
May or may not produce smoke not vapor.

Arcing / arching = auto correct misunderstanding.

When the path of least resistance isn't flowing through the coil, too close to any other metal part of the deck, cap, post, cracked / melted insulator, lose pin etc.
the current arcs across points instead of flowing through coil.

Even though arching / arcing may have thrown you off, stuff anyone should already know before pressing the fire button on a mechanical for the very first time.

I'm not trying to be rude,
your issues & questions about them show a fairly limited understanding of the equipment you're using.
Most importantly, basic battery safety.

Best to remove battery, put away the mech & use a regulated power device until you understand what you're doing & how to do it safely.

 

[venomwolf]

Wicking material smoldering - so much heat being produced & retained the wicking attempts to catch on fire but can't because it is saturated, so it smolders in extreme instances glows.
May or may not produce smoke not vapor.

Arcing / arching = auto correct misunderstanding.

When the path of least resistance isn't flowing through the coil, too close to any other metal part of the deck, cap, post, cracked / melted insulator, lose pin etc.
the current arcs across points instead of flowing through coil.

Even though arching / arcing may have thrown you off, stuff anyone should already know before pressing the fire button on a mechanical for the very first time.

I'm not trying to be rude,
your issues & questions about them show a fairly limited understanding of the equipment you're using.
Most importantly, basic battery safety.

Best to remove battery, put away the mech & use a regulated power device until you understand what you're doing & how to do it safely.

thank you for the help

Im pretty sure i know enough but I may be wrong. After all it seems like I still have things to learn. Been using mech for almost a year safely, however recently I have been pushing limits which may have been ignoring safety.
I very much respects your opinion especially since you seemed to know much more than i do so thank you very much sir.

 

[Bunnykiller]

is the switch magnetic? Im thinking that the switch is arcing and causing minor EMPs to be produced and is causing the magnet to vibrate... and as far as glowing.... not a good sign at all... only time you should see "glow" is when you are dry burning the coil to clean it.... and get a new ohm meter please. not knowing your ohms is like not knowing how long the fuse is on a stick of dynamite