Looking for something small and durable I can fit in my pocket. I work construction so durability is key. Just need some input
Need help choosing a new setup
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People here will be happy to help but need a lot more info than that to give you direction.
How do you vape now? What do you like/dislike about it? What do you imagine to be the perfect vape? Do you rebuild and, if so, do you enjoy it?
Good news is there are many, many, many options right now so I'm sure you can get what you are looking for. Bad news is there are many, many, many options out there so wading through the decision takes time.
I suggest doing a lot of research here and on youtube before you buy anything but this is absolutely the right place to start.
How do you vape now? What do you like/dislike about it? What do you imagine to be the perfect vape? Do you rebuild and, if so, do you enjoy it?
Good news is there are many, many, many options right now so I'm sure you can get what you are looking for. Bad news is there are many, many, many options out there so wading through the decision takes time.
I suggest doing a lot of research here and on youtube before you buy anything but this is absolutely the right place to start.
When I'm home I do the hole drip thing but at work I usually have my provari and mini nautilus but it's big and clunky and I was just looking to maybe keep a mini nautilus but downsize my battery
Istick 30w and Subtank mini. This gear fits most people and most pockets. It's tough, not too expensive and lasts all work day. Small mod and small tank. Good price for reliability. 
SMPL mechanical in media blasted stainless. You could use it as a hammer and not damage it. If you feel like using an RTA or sub ohm tank on it, you couldn't beat the size and durability with anything.
Aspire CF Maxx with an Atlantis Mega. Durability!!!
In all seriousness, I second WonderDude32. Maybe even the iStick 50 watt (though most here will disagree for a reason lol).
In all seriousness, I second WonderDude32. Maybe even the iStick 50 watt (though most here will disagree for a reason lol).
I have a mini nautilaus on an Eleaf istick 20 not sure if they make 20s anymore but they do make 30 it is vv/vw and mine seems to be working like a charm there is a 50 but it is bigger and I have heard rumour regarding auto firing etc Istick is slippery so I would be sure to get a silicone sleeve I am sure there are many others mine has great all day battery life it is a small box mod style
you really dont want to keep mech mods in pockets or near other metal stuff. also that whole fiasco with the smpl (hybrid style) not being compatible with older style clearomizers/rdas (not sure if nautilus is one of them) and leading to explosions due to center pin not protruding.
just make sure you understand it if you get one, the smpl isnt your run of the mill mech mod you should be suggesting to people willy nilly
but seing as you use a nautilus mini or if u want to upgrade to subtank style later on down the road, eleaf istick 30w seems like its enough power and portable enough for you, even if u break it, it's still cheap and u could just pick up another one.
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OK then, easy decision. Reo Grand LP no doubt. Can pocket it, indestructible, dripping on the go via squonking, best of all worlds.
If you think you can use a subohm tank on a SMPL mod I suggest you research this page for the one about a SMPL damn near exploding! You should be EXTREMELY careful about using tanks on any direct connect mod!!!
you really dont want to keep mech mods in pockets or near other metal stuff. also that whole fiasco with the smpl (hybrid style) not being compatible with older style clearomizers/rdas (not sure if nautilus is one of them) and leading to explosions due to center pin not protruding.
just make sure you understand it if you get one, the smpl isnt your run of the mill mech mod you should be suggesting to people willy nilly
but seing as you use a nautilus mini or if u want to upgrade to subtank style later on down the road, eleaf istick 30w seems like its enough power and portable enough for you, even if u break it, it's still cheap and u could just pick up another one.
Recessed button. That your question. It is a magnetic switch. I'm a mechanic, I keep my SMPL in my pocket all day, and have no issues. If you have to pay a little attention to what you are buying, welcome to the world of mechanical mods. A recessed, or flush pin on your atty, is a bad idea. By the way, EXPLODING? Yeah, no. a SMPL has 6, count them SIX, large vent holes on the switch. This mech does not explode, and anyone that managed to have a battery vent, did something incredibly stupid. I run my batteries at or above their limit, something I would not recommend to another vaper. But if you use tanks that are rebuild-able (sorry kids, this isn't for Kanger or Ego products) you are just fine. You can easily run an orchid or other RTA at .8 ohms without any issues. If you take special care with your RBA, I've gone as low as .12 ohm.
SMPL mods don't explode. I have gone well beyond the limit of the battery, the worst thing that can happen is a popped coil. 6 vent holes. Buy something compatible with what you are using. THAT is the reason I don't buy clones, or Chinese products anymore. Mechanical mods are by FAR the most durable, and hassle free products. They simply don't fail. User error is 100% of mech mod failure.
SMPL mods don't explode. I have gone well beyond the limit of the battery, the worst thing that can happen is a popped coil. 6 vent holes. Buy something compatible with what you are using. THAT is the reason I don't buy clones, or Chinese products anymore. Mechanical mods are by FAR the most durable, and hassle free products. They simply don't fail. User error is 100% of mech mod failure.[/QUOTE]
OK, I exaggerated. The mod didn't explode but the battery did vent violently due to a dead short caused by using a subtank with the mod. Subtanks are not designed for direct connect as the 510 positive contact cannot be adjusted to protrude a same amount from the 510 sleeve (the barrel with the threading) thus making it possible for both the positive pin AND the sleeve to come in contact with the battery causing a dead short.
No faulting the mod at all, I have one and love it. Just pointing out that suggesting the use of one with a subtank may not be the best advice.
OK, I exaggerated. The mod didn't explode but the battery did vent violently due to a dead short caused by using a subtank with the mod. Subtanks are not designed for direct connect as the 510 positive contact cannot be adjusted to protrude a same amount from the 510 sleeve (the barrel with the threading) thus making it possible for both the positive pin AND the sleeve to come in contact with the battery causing a dead short.
No faulting the mod at all, I have one and love it. Just pointing out that suggesting the use of one with a subtank may not be the best advice.
OK, I exaggerated. The mod didn't explode but the battery did vent violently due to a dead short caused by using a subtank with the mod. Subtanks are not designed for direct connect as the 510 positive contact cannot be adjusted to protrude a same amount from the 510 sleeve (the barrel with the threading) thus making it possible for both the positive pin AND the sleeve to come in contact with the battery causing a dead short.
No faulting the mod at all, I have one and love it. Just pointing out that suggesting the use of one with a subtank may not be the best advice.[/QUOTE]
I guess I will point out, I am NOT referring to a "Subtank", but any SUBOHM RTA or sub ohm compatible tank. Not a brand name (Kanger) but any RTA that is made for the purpose of sub ohm, unless the sub ohm tank atomizer has an adjustable pin, or is made to not have a flush pin.
smpl are spring loaded switch btw not magnetic, duno where u got yours but authentic smpl are spring loaded switches unless they released another version. also mechanical mods are the most hassle free products imo, they are more hassle compared to regulated devices.
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Well I have a few words for my local B&W. I just took apart my switch, and wouldn't you know it... I'll be adding magnets soon.
magnets are bad to run with high current devices fyi. you will damage the magnets running super subohm like you say you do
I guess I will point out, I am NOT referring to a "Subtank", but any SUBOHM RTA or sub ohm compatible tank. Not a brand name (Kanger) but any RTA that is made for the purpose of sub ohm, unless the sub ohm tank atomizer has an adjustable pin, or is made to not have a flush pin.[/QUOTE]
I wasn't referring to a brand either but rather what I would consider a new genre of tanks, the subtanks, which offer prebuilt subohm replaceable heads. Just not worth the risk.
So, back on topic for the OP...lol
There are many choices out there but seriously, if you like to drip but need something portable and durable you can't go wrong with a Reo. If you are looking for fill it and forget it there a several subtanks available that provide pretty good results all in all and you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a small high wattage regulated mod anymore.
What sort of budget are you working with here? That may help lend some direction.
I wasn't referring to a brand either but rather what I would consider a new genre of tanks, the subtanks, which offer prebuilt subohm replaceable heads. Just not worth the risk.
So, back on topic for the OP...lol
There are many choices out there but seriously, if you like to drip but need something portable and durable you can't go wrong with a Reo. If you are looking for fill it and forget it there a several subtanks available that provide pretty good results all in all and you can't swing a dead cat without hitting a small high wattage regulated mod anymore.
What sort of budget are you working with here? That may help lend some direction.
Since when have magnets not gotten along with electricity? Heat is bad but electricity???
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