Need help!! Having a problem with no draw on my rebuilt Pro Tank 2's

[roonies]

Help!! I am having a problem with my pro tank 2's after rebuilding them. I am rebuilding them correctly and they register the correct ohm's when I test them on my Provari. However, when I reassemble everything and put it back on the Provari I get no draw on it! This is driving me crazy! I have no idea what could be causing this. The device is on, the reassemble on the tank is correct. I screw it down finger tight, not too tight. I've checked and double checked and still it's like sucking an orange through a straw....nothing! Any ideas?? This happens on all of my pro tanks but not the Evod's. I really don't want to have to order stock heads when I'm perfectly able to build a decent head. arghhh....frustrated in NJ!!

 

[ElConquistador]

I've had that problem with rebuilds and removed the flavor wicks, guess I had too much wick packed in there.

 

[roonies]

Oh, I did forget to mention that I use 3mm silica and 32 Kanthal, and no flavor wicks at all.

 

[Jawden]

nah, i think this was an issue with the protank 2's. hold on. let me get you a link.

 

[Jawden]

hope this helps. he had a vamo in this video. ive never owned a provari so i wouldnt be able to assess a good fix. but maybe you can figure something out.

 

[pufZeppelin]

Oh, I did forget to mention that I use 3mm silica and 32 Kanthal, and no flavor wicks at all.

evod on provari requires a 510/ego adapter ??

just for giggles -- have you tried protank with adapter ?

 

[roonies]

Thanks, Jawden, for the link. I'm not sure how this will work on a Provari if I don't have a beauty ring. I do have an air flow adjuster though, and maybe I'll give that a try. I'm just glad to know it's not something I'm doing wrong. I wonder if the mini pro tank is better....anyone know?

 

[roonies]

Yep, I've used the adaptor with evods, not with the pro tank though, as it fits without it. I don't really like using the adaptor on the Provari and save my evods for my spinners or pass through for driving mostly. The adaptor just doesn't seem to thread easily on the Provari for me, and I did get it from Provape. Maybe I got a wonky one.

evod on provari requires a 510/ego adapter ??

just for giggles -- have you tried protank with adapter ?

 

[Rickajho]

If the airflow is completely blocked - total vacuum - chances are you have a problem with the positive post insulator.

Did you use a replacement insulator or the original? Some of the replacements out there are a tiny bit large and this contributes to the problem.

Check that bit of the insulator that sticks out at the bottom, between the coil base and the positive post. If it's at all mashed it will stick out like a donut. It shouldn't be overhanging compared to the metal center post or the base of the coil. If it is, when you screw it in to the PT base that blocks air from getting in from the two holes in the PT base to the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Over-tightening the PT base onto a device can cause the problem as well.

I have heard rumor that Kanger is now using a softer material for the center post insulator. If that's true it can make the problem easier to create.

 

[roonies]

I'm using the original insulators. Wouldn't it not register the ohms on my Provari if I had a problem with the insulator though? I do get some air flow when I loosen the base, as shown in the above video, but it's not a great vapor producer.
I am actually going to order a couple dozen positive post insulators that are made of silicone. They are said to be compatible with the Kanger products. Mine are starting to look a little worn. Thanks for this info. It is good stuff to know for sure.

If the airflow is completely blocked - total vacuum - chances are you have a problem with the positive post insulator.

Did you use a replacement insulator or the original? Some of the replacements out there are a tiny bit large and this contributes to the problem.

Check that bit of the insulator that sticks out at the bottom, between the coil base and the positive post. If it's at all mashed it will stick out like a donut. It shouldn't be overhanging compared to the metal center post or the base of the coil. If it is, when you screw it in to the PT base that blocks air from getting in from the two holes in the PT base to the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Over-tightening the PT base onto a device can cause the problem as well.

I have heard rumor that Kanger is now using a softer material for the center post insulator. If that's true it can make the problem easier to create.

 

[Rickajho]

I'm using the original insulators. Wouldn't it not register the ohms on my Provari if I had a problem with the insulator though? I do get some air flow when I loosen the base, as shown in the above video, but it's not a great vapor producer.
I am actually going to order a couple dozen positive post insulators that are made of silicone. They are said to be compatible with the Kanger products. Mine are starting to look a little worn. Thanks for this info. It is good stuff to know for sure.

Nope - has nothing to do with electrical contact. The insulator getting mashed is an entirely mechanical problem. There isn't a lot of room for tolerance going on here. The post insulator doesn't have to be squashed a lot to block air flow. It takes very little for it to become a problem and stop air from getting down between the the outside wall of the PT base and the interior wall - if you will - of the coil itself.

Try this: Unscrew the PT from your PV and draw. That's air getting straight into the coil assembly through the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Put the PT back on your PV and draw. That's air passing through the two holes at the top of the 510 threads on the base, down between the outer threads of the base and the coil inserted into it, and now through the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Or not if there is a problem and the post insulator is blocking the air flow between the coil assembly and the base it's screwed into.

 

[roonies]

Ok, thanks. That really helps me visualize what's going on. I'll bet that's what is blocking my air flow. Those insulators are rather large and have to be kind of finessed in there. I'll recheck mine and see if I can't fix the problem. I wonder if the silicone ones from Kidney Puncher will be better. I need to replace mine anyway so guess I'll find out. Thanks again!!

Nope - has nothing to do with electrical contact. The insulator getting mashed is an entirely mechanical problem. There isn't a lot of room for tolerance going on here. The post insulator doesn't have to be squashed a lot to block air flow. It takes very little for it to become a problem and stop air from getting down between the the outside wall of the PT base and the interior wall - if you will - of the coil itself.

Try this: Unscrew the PT from your PV and draw. That's air getting straight into the coil assembly through the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Put the PT back on your PV and draw. That's air passing through the two holes at the top of the 510 threads on the base, down between the outer threads of the base and the coil inserted into it, and now through the hole in the very bottom of the coil. Or not if there is a problem and the post insulator is blocking the air flow between the coil assembly and the base it's screwed into.

 

[Rickajho]

Ok, thanks. That really helps me visualize what's going on. I'll bet that's what is blocking my air flow. Those insulators are rather large and have to be kind of finessed in there. I'll recheck mine and see if I can't fix the problem. I wonder if the silicone ones from Kidney Puncher will be better. I need to replace mine anyway so guess I'll find out. Thanks again!!

If you put the post insulator in upside down - guaranteed problem. The edge with the extra rim on it goes in toward the coil, not toward the base of the assembly.

 

[roonies]

thanks, yeah, I knew that. I've probably watched dozens of videos and done as many rebuilds....not all pro tank heads, but plenty of BCC's. The rimmed edge stays on the outside on the pro tank head. It's worth double checking though....not saying I can't screw up every now and then...lol
edited to say: I double checked a few videos. The rimmed edge is definitely on the outside.

If you put the post insulator in upside down - guaranteed problem. The edge with the extra rim on it goes in toward the coil, not toward the base of the assembly.

 

[beckdg]

completely agree with rickajho. kanger should buy the OP from this thread and include it with their instructions in every tank they make... http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/482938-kanger-protank-airflow-fix.html

 

[Rickajho]

thanks, yeah, I knew that. I've probably watched dozens of videos and done as many rebuilds....not all pro tank heads, but plenty of BCC's. The rimmed edge stays on the outside on the pro tank head. It's worth double checking though....not saying I can't screw up every now and then...lol
edited to say: I double checked a few videos. The rimmed edge is definitely on the outside.

I sorry. I had brain fartz. Been staring at too many rebuild threads.

There are actually two rims on the OEM insulator. You is right - the end with the "skinny" rim goes toward the coil, the end with the "fat" rim goes toward the base. Some people are trimming off the "skinny" rim. Either because it gets a bit burned from use, or just to make the things less of a royal pain to get in there.

There is also a thread around here, somewhere... showing a knockoff coil that was causing airflow problems and had a fatter than standard rim on the bottom of the insulator too,

 

[roonies]

trimming off the skinny rim on that insulator is a damn fine idea!! I may just have to try that.....and btw.....I actually prefer my IBTanked carto tanks.....less issues and great flavor. I won't be buying anymore pro tanks for now....unless someone steps up and tells me they love the mini.

I sorry. I had brain fartz. Been staring at too many rebuild threads.

There are actually two rims on the OEM insulator. You is right - the end with the "skinny" rim goes toward the coil, the end with the "fat" rim goes toward the base. Some people are trimming off the "skinny" rim. Either because it gets a bit burned from use, or just to make the things less of a royal pain to get in there.

There is also a thread around here, somewhere... showing a knockoff coil that was causing airflow problems and had a fatter than standard rim on the bottom of the insulator too,

 

[Rickajho]

trimming off the skinny rim on that insulator is a damn fine idea!! I may just have to try that.....and btw.....I actually prefer my IBTanked carto tanks.....less issues and great flavor. I won't be buying anymore pro tanks for now....unless someone steps up and tells me they love the mini.

Why the hell are we even discussing ProTanks? lol - I just fired up a Vmod XL liquid feed system tonight. All my ProTanks are about to go in my "later" box.

 

[retired1]

Moved to Clearomizers.