I've read all the previous threads about the AGR v2 tank leaking but none offered an explanation on how to fix it. Am I stuck with an expensive paper weight? Here's what my tank is doing: after I fill it, I get about 3 to 5 good hits, then the hits taste burnt. At that point, if I start slowly unscrewing the top cap, the hole in the carto bubbles away sucking in juice big time. After all the bubbling of course it's leaking out the side air holes and the bottom. Has anyone solved this problem? If so, what's the solution? I love the way the tank looks and would buy more. Did I just get a bad one? I got it from Discount Vapors. Thanks for any help given.
New AGR V2 Carto Tank Leaking
- Thread starter clippergear
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Hi Clippergear! 
I just got one of these and it leaked too.
My totally uneducated guess is that it has something to do with air displacement in the tank during/after filling.
What proportion of PG/VG juice are you using?
What I have found is that the higher the PG the smaller the hole on the carto (like 1mm).
Also, try priming the carto from the top and after you fill your tank, let it sit for a bit so it will fill from the bottom, that way you don't have so much juice already in your carto that when you fill you tank it floods your carto.
Last night I was running a XXL boge carto with a 1mm hole in the smaller tank so my drip tip seated properly in my carto. How I refilled this - I unscrewed the entire top cap (with the fill screw still screwed in) and slid it up to the bottom of the drip tip, refilled and screwed the top cap back down
Today I am running a Regular size Kanger BC carto with the smaller tank and a hole that is a little over 1mm (i punch my own cartos so individual results will vary from carto to carto). I am using a 50/50 juice.
I went to refill and got a little leakage, so what I did this time is I took off the drip tip, unscrewed the fill screw, unscrewed the top cap, refilled to just over the hole in the carto (as a test), screwed the top cap back on and then the fill screw, then reinserted the drip tip and I have not gotten any leakage as yet.
Like I said I think there is something about air displacement here..it's a fantastic design but seems just a bit fiddly.
Also make sure your carto is fully pushed down into the bottom disc, you should actually hear in snap in when it is fully seated (at least that's how mine is), before you screw it into the second bottom piece that screws into your connection on you mod/eGo/etc.
I hope this helps.
I think we need to start an AGR Tank tips, tricks and techniques thread.
I like this tank because I don't have to worry about accidently pulling out a carto and getting juice all over all over the place..perhaps if all of us AGR tank users put our heads together we can figure out what the magic spell is, lol
I tell you though, once it works it works very well..great TH and clouds of vapor.
I just got one of these and it leaked too.
My totally uneducated guess is that it has something to do with air displacement in the tank during/after filling.
What proportion of PG/VG juice are you using?
What I have found is that the higher the PG the smaller the hole on the carto (like 1mm).
Also, try priming the carto from the top and after you fill your tank, let it sit for a bit so it will fill from the bottom, that way you don't have so much juice already in your carto that when you fill you tank it floods your carto.
Last night I was running a XXL boge carto with a 1mm hole in the smaller tank so my drip tip seated properly in my carto. How I refilled this - I unscrewed the entire top cap (with the fill screw still screwed in) and slid it up to the bottom of the drip tip, refilled and screwed the top cap back down
Today I am running a Regular size Kanger BC carto with the smaller tank and a hole that is a little over 1mm (i punch my own cartos so individual results will vary from carto to carto). I am using a 50/50 juice.
I went to refill and got a little leakage, so what I did this time is I took off the drip tip, unscrewed the fill screw, unscrewed the top cap, refilled to just over the hole in the carto (as a test), screwed the top cap back on and then the fill screw, then reinserted the drip tip and I have not gotten any leakage as yet.
Like I said I think there is something about air displacement here..it's a fantastic design but seems just a bit fiddly.
Also make sure your carto is fully pushed down into the bottom disc, you should actually hear in snap in when it is fully seated (at least that's how mine is), before you screw it into the second bottom piece that screws into your connection on you mod/eGo/etc.
I hope this helps.
I think we need to start an AGR Tank tips, tricks and techniques thread.
I like this tank because I don't have to worry about accidently pulling out a carto and getting juice all over all over the place..perhaps if all of us AGR tank users put our heads together we can figure out what the magic spell is, lol
I tell you though, once it works it works very well..great TH and clouds of vapor.
I'm new to carto tanks, and I just got a couple AGR tanks in the mail this week, filled one how you described it, and it's been working flawlessly for days. I picked up my filling method from a YouTube video I found. The key is to take the small screw out, take the top cap off and fill, put the top cap back, and THEN put the small screw back, in that order.
AGR TANK HOW TO FILL - YouTube
I love these things. My only wish is that they weren't plastic, but I placed an IBTanked order so I'll have some of those too.
Oh, and I'm using a Boge LR carto that I punched 2 holes in. No major leaks at all, I just have to dab at the air holes on the tank's base with a paper towel maybe once a day.
I have been having somewhat of a problem with this tank as well. I have both the plastic and pyrex version (AGR+), and both seem to just want to leak the whole tank out of the bottom of the carto. I love the design, the idea, but this thing wicks like a MONSTER or something. Now the video Machinetastic posted above gave me a good clue of one important thing to do with the PLASTIC tank. Taking the fill screw out as you screw the cap back on, so the air being displaced as you screw the cap back into the tank has somewhere with less resistance to go (and not the bottom through the wicking holes in your carto). However, this does nothing for the pyrex version, as you pretty much have to use the fill hole, with a smaller gauge needle for air to slip past it. Even after having tried this "new" method shown in the youtube video above, I will leak about half my tank through the bottom, before it almost stops. So my idea is this, which I will test on my next paycheck... I am going to try punching my own cartos, but instead of a "full-on" hole being punched, I will just go the SLIGHTEST bit into punching a hole into the carto. The thing that works with this tank so very well, is also the downside I believe. Every time you take a draw, I believe with such monstrous holes in the carto, you are aiding in the wicking by sucking in some of your juice. I only draw this conclusion, because I have tried just putting a carto in without priming it, let it sit for about 10 minutes, and start taking some draws.. As soon as I start taking draws, BAM, it starts leaking. So maybe even a 1mm hole is a little too much... *shrug*... But like I said, I will be testing this on my next paycheck, buying some non-punched cartos and testing it out. Love the tank, love that it wicks so well, but not that it leaks SO WELL! On that note, I will get back to you all in a couple weeks..
Okay, I have come back with an update sooner than expected, and without having to make my wallet a couple grams lighter. I took cues from the video posted above in an earlier post, but added my own little twist, based on how I believe the design and dynamics of this tank work. As far as the original, plastic tank version, of the AGR, I followed what the gent in the video above did. Albeit, I added my own little twist that seems to work with the pyrex version as well.
I primed my Boge 45mm cartos a little bit, not as much as I normally would though. About 20-30 drops. You may want to use less if you are working with a 35mm, more near 20 drops. On to the twist... Instead of having a rag below like the video suggests, I just put my finger over the bottom of the 510 connection. By that, I mean the 510 connection of the locking device after it has been locked down onto the 510 connection of the carto. Fully assembled basically!
In my mind, I see the leak occurring because it is creating a "siphon" effect. Once that liquid starts heading down the 510 connection, the liquid just wants to keep travelling that way since it has already started, and it is the path of least resistance. By putting your finger over the 510 connection, the path of LEAST resistance now becomes the fill hole without the screw in it, as you tighten the main top down. I still progress slowly with the top going down, and kept everything the same as the video.
For the AGR+ tank, you pretty much have to use the fill hole to fill up your tank. I used an 18 gauge needle, and filled very slowly, almost as slow as liquid going through an 18 gauge will allow, just a little slower to be safe. We aren't trying to win a race or anything, right? I made sure to keep the needle up against the side of the fill hole, not going diagonal into the hole or anything, as to allow space for the air to flow past unhindered. I still used a finger over the 510 connection at the bottom. I also put the fill screw in (for both styles of tanks) very slowly, and with a finger over the connection. You can, almost imperceptibly, feel the pressure of air going against your finger as you do this. I believe this was the "sucking" force you would use with a siphon, but this was just working in the opposite direction, and that may be what causes the tanks to start leaking.
Anyway, I am no fluid dynamics major, or anything of the sort... But so far I have tried this with my Boge cartos I bought just for these tanks, and I did not even have to blow fluid out like the gentleman in the video did! They now work perfect, and I swear these tanks get me better hits and flavor than others I have used... That could be the Boge cartos though, as I normally use Ikenvape Platinums.. That will be my next test, with those monstrous laser punched holes they have. Originally I believed the leaking to be due to those large holes, and got the Boge's, but it happened with Boge's too... No longer with Boge's! I will update after I have had a chance to test those monsters out..
Sorry for the long winded post, but I try to be as descriptive and detailed as possible, so others may recreate the process! I sure hope this helps my fellow Vapers out with their AGR's, and maybe this could even be stickied for those having trouble with their AGR's someday. This post sure pointed me in the right direction to start off on my own experimenting! Good luck, and good vaping my comrades!
I primed my Boge 45mm cartos a little bit, not as much as I normally would though. About 20-30 drops. You may want to use less if you are working with a 35mm, more near 20 drops. On to the twist... Instead of having a rag below like the video suggests, I just put my finger over the bottom of the 510 connection. By that, I mean the 510 connection of the locking device after it has been locked down onto the 510 connection of the carto. Fully assembled basically!
In my mind, I see the leak occurring because it is creating a "siphon" effect. Once that liquid starts heading down the 510 connection, the liquid just wants to keep travelling that way since it has already started, and it is the path of least resistance. By putting your finger over the 510 connection, the path of LEAST resistance now becomes the fill hole without the screw in it, as you tighten the main top down. I still progress slowly with the top going down, and kept everything the same as the video.
For the AGR+ tank, you pretty much have to use the fill hole to fill up your tank. I used an 18 gauge needle, and filled very slowly, almost as slow as liquid going through an 18 gauge will allow, just a little slower to be safe. We aren't trying to win a race or anything, right? I made sure to keep the needle up against the side of the fill hole, not going diagonal into the hole or anything, as to allow space for the air to flow past unhindered. I still used a finger over the 510 connection at the bottom. I also put the fill screw in (for both styles of tanks) very slowly, and with a finger over the connection. You can, almost imperceptibly, feel the pressure of air going against your finger as you do this. I believe this was the "sucking" force you would use with a siphon, but this was just working in the opposite direction, and that may be what causes the tanks to start leaking.
Anyway, I am no fluid dynamics major, or anything of the sort... But so far I have tried this with my Boge cartos I bought just for these tanks, and I did not even have to blow fluid out like the gentleman in the video did! They now work perfect, and I swear these tanks get me better hits and flavor than others I have used... That could be the Boge cartos though, as I normally use Ikenvape Platinums.. That will be my next test, with those monstrous laser punched holes they have. Originally I believed the leaking to be due to those large holes, and got the Boge's, but it happened with Boge's too... No longer with Boge's! I will update after I have had a chance to test those monsters out..
Sorry for the long winded post, but I try to be as descriptive and detailed as possible, so others may recreate the process! I sure hope this helps my fellow Vapers out with their AGR's, and maybe this could even be stickied for those having trouble with their AGR's someday. This post sure pointed me in the right direction to start off on my own experimenting! Good luck, and good vaping my comrades!
I thought the idea of a juice fill hole was to add convenience and shorten the time it takes to setup and fill compared to a regular old cartotank. Seems like the AGR tanks are a poor design and involve a lot of extra time and work. I'm glad I never fell for the hype.
Hey kids, I have a couple of the pyrex version of this tank. I have never had a leak. So I thought I would tell you how i set it up andfill and use it. I start by punching my own cartos. I use boge either regular LR or LR xl's I punch them with one small hole only I then install them in the bottum cap. screw on the bottum retainer cap install the center tube glass annd then the top cap. I take out the filler screw and use a needle bottle cap on my juice bottle I make sure to maintain an opening nextto that neddle. air must be able to come out that hole. after I fill the tank I put 20 drops of juice in thecarto from the top. if it takes a little bit so what. when the carto has excepted all 20 drops I put the filler screw back into the top put on a drip tip and le it sit for 5 minutes and vape. To this writing I have never had a leak or even a dsmp spot on the 510 connection. I use about 2 tanks a day. if I am using thesame juice I just take out the screw fill the tank as before put it back and vape away the carto is arlready primed from prior use.
It works for me no dry hits no upside down center post just good old vapor and pretty fair taste as well. I am a chain vapor and never run the carto out of juice even wit only one hole. Note: If you already have 2 hole cartos you can put a small peice of ss mesh in the hole to slow down the juice getting in. I have tried this with the smok tek cartos and it does work.
peace
mick8844
It works for me no dry hits no upside down center post just good old vapor and pretty fair taste as well. I am a chain vapor and never run the carto out of juice even wit only one hole. Note: If you already have 2 hole cartos you can put a small peice of ss mesh in the hole to slow down the juice getting in. I have tried this with the smok tek cartos and it does work.
peace
mick8844
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