New CE2 TANK Carto
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So it's like the Kanger T3 (bottom coil clearo) in a standard carto shell. Interesting.
I would like to see how it keeps the liquid away from the air holes to allow air to pass through though. It's not very forthcoming on that
I just received mine from MV today with a SmokTech DCT, and I'm hooked. They're fantastic and gave me the first nic buzz I've had in a few days.
I've been using the Kanger T2 exclusively for the last month due to it's sheer awesomeness, but I'll be using this for the next few weeks and report in throughout my use.
Your review Kemosabe was spot-on, and every point made was exactly what I saw as well.
These are fantastic for the price, and I'm sure will have people digging out their DCT's to try these out.
I've been using the Kanger T2 exclusively for the last month due to it's sheer awesomeness, but I'll be using this for the next few weeks and report in throughout my use.
Your review Kemosabe was spot-on, and every point made was exactly what I saw as well.
These are fantastic for the price, and I'm sure will have people digging out their DCT's to try these out.
I love vaping VG dominant ejuices ce2's work ok for me, I much prefer ce3's, but do you guys think that this tank carto would work well with high vg ejuices like Boba's?
Well, after getting about 30min into the first CE2, I'm getting nothing but severe burning. I took the cup out and opened the square channels a little to allow better juice flow, but no dice. I'm starting to think the wicks may be blocking the juice from entering the bottom of the CE2, but it's full of juice.
I'll figure out what the deal is and update in a couple hours.
I'll figure out what the deal is and update in a couple hours.
So yeah, I'm unsure what the issue is. I know in the past with DCT's I've experienced what I call a "juice lock", where the pressure in the tank is either too great or none at all, and the juice will not flow to the wicks, and I think that's what I'm experiencing.
I'll keep trying cause I really want these to work, but if anyone has tips, I'm all ears
I'll keep trying cause I really want these to work, but if anyone has tips, I'm all ears
Thanks for the tip denali, but unfortunately these still don't wick at all. I went a full 24 hours on one CE2 with no success, do I decided to replace it with another one to compare, and it's the same story all over again. I'm using a 2ohm CE2 at 3 volts, and still, nothing but burning.
I'll keep trying over the course of the weekend, but I'm not sure if these will work. I had very high hopes for them and really wanted them to work
I'll keep trying over the course of the weekend, but I'm not sure if these will work. I had very high hopes for them and really wanted them to work
I'm the one to blame for the review I've used two of them in the last two weeks or so and didn't run into any real burning issues until after quite a lot of duty cycles, and I was using them around 4v most of the time, even with thicker juices. I'm trying to think of what might causing dry burns and am drawing a blank. The holes are so big in those things that liquid should flow pretty freely.
Might it be something in your e-liquid burns easily? That's the only thing I can think of off the top of my head. The cartos can be disassembled and dry burned, though it is a little harder than doing that on the old clear CE2s.
As far as others asking about the design, it is a slightly tweaked version of the old-school CE2 engine with thicker wicks and larger notches in the top silicone gasket for the wicks. It's a very short CE2 engine, which leaves a bunch of empty space in the top half of the cartomizer.
I've used two of them in the last two weeks or so and didn't run into any real burning issues until after quite a lot of duty cycles, and I was using them around 4v most of the time, even with thicker juices. I'm trying to think of what might causing dry burns and am drawing a blank. The holes are so big in those things that liquid should flow pretty freely. Might it be something in your e-liquid burns easily? That's the only thing I can think of off the top of my head. The cartos can be disassembled and dry burned, though it is a little harder than doing that on the old clear CE2s.
As far as others asking about the design, it is a slightly tweaked version of the old-school CE2 engine with thicker wicks and larger notches in the top silicone gasket for the wicks. It's a very short CE2 engine, which leaves a bunch of empty space in the top half of the cartomizer.
thanks. that actually wasnt my review though. thanks for posting your results. its too bad these things dont seem to wick well for you. perhaps you got unlucky and got a couple of duds.
Kemosabe, have you used these yourself? I saw these weeks ago and thought about trying a few, but decided to try to find some user reviews first.
I also saw this MAPP tank:
no, i have not used the new CE2 tank carto. im interested but not sure yet if theyre for me.
that mapp tank looks cool although im not all that familiar.
that mapp tank looks cool although im not all that familiar.
Thanks for the tip denali, but unfortunately these still don't wick at all. I went a full 24 hours on one CE2 with no success, do I decided to replace it with another one to compare, and it's the same story all over again. I'm using a 2ohm CE2 at 3 volts, and still, nothing but burning.
I'll keep trying over the course of the weekend, but I'm not sure if these will work. I had very high hopes for them and really wanted them to work
believe i just figured out what the problem your having
imagine sticking an empty glass upside down into a bucket of water.no water will enter the glass
if you put one or two hole into the glass the water will fill the glass to the level of the highest hole and no further !!
punch a hole up close to the bottom of ceramic cup inside the ce2, and see if that helps any
I haven't tried punching another hole on the tube by the ceramic cup as of yet, but I did create an air hole in the silicon ring on top of the cup to give it the feeding ability, and it keeps the wicks wet up to the cup. I believe it's the coil itself, as the CE2's I've used in the past don't just burn all the time.
I use DIY Cinnamon Red Hots at 16-18%, and the only time it'll really burn is above 8 watts, and I've been using these CE2's at 6.
I've found that doing a very short and hard pull without firing it will cause the coil/cup to flood, and only then am I able to get decent flavor and vapor.
I'll pull one apart whenever I get some free time and see if there is anything else rather obvious I can do to fix it, as I really want these to work.
I use DIY Cinnamon Red Hots at 16-18%, and the only time it'll really burn is above 8 watts, and I've been using these CE2's at 6.
I've found that doing a very short and hard pull without firing it will cause the coil/cup to flood, and only then am I able to get decent flavor and vapor.
I'll pull one apart whenever I get some free time and see if there is anything else rather obvious I can do to fix it, as I really want these to work.
just tried this,,with 4 punches at different heights,,still getting dry burns unless i tilt it
back to the map tanks and un-raveling the wick
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