New to box mods
- Thread starter cnazzy
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Hello and welcome to the forum cnazzy. Glad to have you here!
An interesting read. =>My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
An interesting read. =>My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
basically find that most these 100-150 watt box mods work best at builds between 0.4-0.8 ohm, for optimal purrformance. But a lot has to do with # of coils used too.
Cloud production has much more to do with skill of the build, rba used, fiber wicked with, air supply, and juice selected, than the battery used for power.
Cloud production has much more to do with skill of the build, rba used, fiber wicked with, air supply, and juice selected, than the battery used for power.
You'll get good cloud production with that setup. The CLT has massive airflow. I have been enjoying .4 - .6 ohm builds in my CLT v2 plus at around 40 to 60ish watts.
I just got my first box mod and went for a modest 30 watt Sigelei Mini and I must say that I'm a huge fan of the box style vape. the 30watt is perfect for my new favorite tank, yep you guessed it, Kanger subtank Mini. I actually picked both the mini and nano up from an online vendor after locating them along with a coupon code from Gotsmok.com. Up until this current setup, I had been using other Kanger tanks on a Sigelei V5 which was my main device of choice for most environments.
I'm not a super huge sub-ohmer like some, and tend to build to around .8 ohms on my regular mechanical mod. I've noticed that the lower the ohms, the more airflow you need. My buddy is building .15 ohm coils and is looking for a box. There's some handy watt apps you can download for your smartphone that will convert volts, amps, watts, and ohms which I find very useful. I think we determined that he would need 150 - 200watts box mod if he wanted to continue building to such low ohms.
I'm quite pleased with my Subtank and have hardly touched my Orchid since getting it which had been my favorite RBA/RTA.
I'm not a super huge sub-ohmer like some, and tend to build to around .8 ohms on my regular mechanical mod. I've noticed that the lower the ohms, the more airflow you need. My buddy is building .15 ohm coils and is looking for a box. There's some handy watt apps you can download for your smartphone that will convert volts, amps, watts, and ohms which I find very useful. I think we determined that he would need 150 - 200watts box mod if he wanted to continue building to such low ohms.
I'm quite pleased with my Subtank and have hardly touched my Orchid since getting it which had been my favorite RBA/RTA.
This worries the hell outta me.
What's he using to fire those coils?
Does he still have all his fingers?
You're going to have a lot of power at your disposal.
Good thing is, you don't have to use it all. You can get an excellent vape at pretty moderate sub ohms with killer battery life. I lean towards the middle ground, .5-.9 ohms gives me good balance between flavor and clouds. I generally like 26g wire, but will use 24 if I'm closer to .5
If you do decide to crank up the power, thicker gauge wire is where'd you'd be headed. If you want something that can handle all 150 (or 165) watts, try 20-22g around a 3mm bit, 10-12 wraps should hover between .3-.4ohms. Wick it well, and be prepared to drop constantly.
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with high powered box mods you dont need to build so low to get your desired wattage. the super low builds started because there were no high wattage regulated devices. People where using these on mechanicals. Mechanicals have no boost circuit so the only variable you have any real control over is the resistance. fixed voltage with lower resistance gives you higher wattage. Now you can vape a .5ohm coil, crank the watts and watch that baby spew clouds.
With lower builds you want larger gauge wire to keep your surface are up - more surface area means more vapor produced.
With lower builds you want larger gauge wire to keep your surface are up - more surface area means more vapor produced.
I have an ipv3 with several different rda's that I use on it. The beauty like others have said is that it is great with any resistance. My work setup is a lemo drop at 1.2 ~26watts and it has great flavor and solid vapor production. At home I run a darkhorse or plumeveil between .6 and .3 at 60-70w and love it. They are so much more versatile than a mech.
Hey mate,
I generally like the IPV2, but anyone looking at the IPV3 should be made aware of the issue it's having with the 510 connector, because Asmodeus warranty issues are notorious. Ohms stop reading right, and then it literally falls out because it's just glued into a shallow groove. Here's one thread on it, but there're many more:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/643072-ipv3-loose-510-connection.html
I generally like the IPV2, but anyone looking at the IPV3 should be made aware of the issue it's having with the 510 connector, because Asmodeus warranty issues are notorious. Ohms stop reading right, and then it literally falls out because it's just glued into a shallow groove. Here's one thread on it, but there're many more:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/643072-ipv3-loose-510-connection.html
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