New to SubOhming

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mrmonopoly

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So I've been vaping for a while now and I'm going to try to start sub ohming. I've done a lot of research and I've read up on Ohm's Law. I'm buying a new mod and I like this one because it is small and cheap.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walant-Kang...id=1447271598&sr=8-2&keywords=walant+kangside

It comes with a clearomiser with a resistance of 0.5 ohms and I'll probably using it with around 20watts. If I were to replace the 18350 with an 18650 (as the vape has an extension) battery like this one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Walant-Kang...id=1447271598&sr=8-2&keywords=walant+kangside

which can take up to 35 amps, I should be safe as my vape would only release around 6 amps right?

That battery supposedly is actually only to 20amps, but this shouldn't affect my vaping? I'm still safe?

Sorry if this seems like a silly question, it's my first time to subohming so I want to be safe and careful.
 

Baditude

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Good to be asking if a setup is safe, than try it out first and find that it wasn't. :thumb:

Your links didn't work so I can't tell what you are using. What we need to know:

What batteries specifically will you be using? Brand and model number. What are their true continuous discharge rate? (Many brands advertise over-rated battery specs; Mooch has bench tested many batteries and his results are here. I also have a list of recommended batteries with their true specs here.)

Are you using a mechanical or regulated mod? What model specifically?
When using a mechanical mod, the most important questions to answer are what is the amp draw of the coils and the total continuous discharge rate (CDR) of you battery?

Explain It to the Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

* Coil amp draw from Ohm's Law calculations for Mechanical Mods:

1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
When using a regulated mod, one needs to know the amp limit of the processor and its wattage output.

75W or higher, we recommend the Sony VTC4 2100 mah 30 amp CDR.

40W-75W = LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR (green wrap if you can, blue wrap is just fine)
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 Amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5 2600mAh 30Amp CDR (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR
Under 40W = LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung INR18650-30Q 3000mah 15Amp CDR
AW 18650 3000mah 20 Amp CDR​
 

mrmonopoly

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I will be using the Walant KangSiDe 25W version with a 0.5 ohm atomiser
And for the battery I'm thinking about the Efest IMR 2500mah 35AMP. Apparently the continuous discharging rate is 35A, but some reviews say its 20.
According to Mooch's table I should be good as I'm not going to be using anything higher than 25W. I like how small and cheap the mod is.
 

Topwater Elvis

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Dec 26, 2012
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An authentic Kangside (KSD) mini 25w has a built in 1600 mah battery (sometimes advertised as 1800mah).
The copycat/clones use an 18350, the Walant KangSiDe 25W is 18350 only, aka mini.
The 50w version uses an 18650.

Just me, I wouldn't trust the usb charger on the removable battery type.
Nor would I use or recommend efest batteries, why buy a re wrapped falsely labeled 2nd, 3rd bin battery when you can buy 1st bin, usually cheaper.
 
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Baditude

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I will be using the Walant KangSiDe 25W version with a 0.5 ohm atomiser
And for the battery I'm thinking about the Efest IMR 2500mah 35AMP. Apparently the continuous discharging rate is 35A, but some reviews say its 20.
According to Mooch's table I should be good as I'm not going to be using anything higher than 25W. I like how small and cheap the mod is.
Efest is notorious for over-rating their battery specifications. Why pay more for a B or C bin cell in a pretty purple wrapper when you can get an A bin LG, Samsung, or Sony battery for the same price with legitimate specifications?

Purple Efest Batteries: Not As Advertised



Also this mod only requires 1 battery and is able to be charged via usb port without removing the battery. Is it safe to charge the mod with the battery still inside it?

Generally speaking, its safer to charge an IMR battery in a reputable box battery charger. USB charging cables can develop frayed wire inside their cords, and the charging ports can also degrade over time.
 
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Baditude

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Apr 8, 2012
30,394
73,076
71
Ridgeway, Ohio
I will be using the Walant KangSiDe 25W version with a 0.5 ohm atomiser
And for the battery I'm thinking about the Efest IMR 2500mah 35AMP. Apparently the continuous discharging rate is 35A, but some reviews say its 20.
According to Mooch's table I should be good as I'm not going to be using anything higher than 25W. I like how small and cheap the mod is.

Should you decide to run this mod with an 18350 IMR battery, keep in mind that this size of battery will have only 6 - 12 amps CDR depending upon the brand and model.

AW 18350 700 mah 6A
AW 18350 800 mah 12A (new IMR/hybrid)

Efest 18350 800mah 6.4A CDR (red)
Efest 18350 700mAh 10.5A CDR (purple)​
 

Topwater Elvis

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Dec 26, 2012
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I'd recommend almost any power device over the one you linked.
Innokin Disrupter or coolfire 4
Evic VT
Istick 40w or 60w
Subbox or subbox mini
Sxmini
Kbox or kbox mini/nano
Provape radius
To name a few, there are dozens more. Depends on your budget & what features you want.

To avoid counterfeit / lesser quality cells only buy batteries from reputable vendors / dealers such as;
RTD vapor
Illumination supply
Orbtronic
imrbatteries
 
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