new UFS cap

[Para]

Thanks Imeo, I think I have decided I'm going to turn my UFS and other GGTS into a stealth mod at least until I can get another iAtty

I will be able to make it a bit shorter with the new cap, no top piece, and a shorty super t tip. I won't need 5ml of juice in a stealth mod, so the smaller tank will be perfect. Dang I should have jumped on the boat sooner

Here's a pic for you. ssGGTS 091 UFS with ss cap, 1.5 Ohm IKV atty, and a single AW LiFePo4 3.2V.
Super Cool!!!

EXCELLENT ! I do love small PV's. Looks fantastic.

 

[inquisitorj]

+1 on missing the new top cap.

I've been looking forward to this since you introduced it. I already have some Dual coil cartos just waiting for this.

 

[Rick.45cal]

We have to wait inquisitorj, it's almost August, and in August Greece shuts down and everyone partys!

 

[Wylie]

This little device is simply amazing! It allows me to combine the benefits of the UFS with air control with my favorite 510 cartomizers and drip tip.

The liquid control does work, but it is much less pronounced with a cartomizer. The polyfill in the carto makes the changes in liquid control much less noticeable. Once it's saturated, it's pretty much ready to go. No issues with flooding, another benefit for those with difficulty controlling flow. I was pretty much able to dial in exactly the juice flow I wanted before, but this is incredibly simple!

The setup:

• SS GGTS #046
• SmokTech Dual Coil 1.5Ω cartomizer
• IKV RY4/Innovapor ULTRApure blend (10/90)
• SS T Tip from Super T
• AW IC 18650 2900 mAh

EDIT - Two additional comments:

1. This thing is even more amazing with two Tenergy LiFePO4 batteries!
2. The cap has notches on either side for easy removal. I thought it might be a chip in the cap when I first opened it.

 

[Painfreak]

This little device is simply amazing! It allows me to combine the benefits of the UFS with air control with my favorite 510 cartomizers and drip tip.

The liquid control does work, but it is much less pronounced with a cartomizer. The polyfill in the carto makes the changes in liquid control much less noticeable. Once it's saturated, it's pretty much ready to go. No issues with flooding, another benefit for those with difficulty controlling flow. I was pretty much able to dial in exactly the juice flow I wanted before, but this is incredibly simple!

The setup:

• SS GGTS #046
• SmokTech Dual Coil 1.5Ω cartomizer
• IKV RY4/Innovapor ULTRApure blend (10/90)
• SS T Tip from Super T
• AW IC 18650 2900 mAh

View attachment 48437

EDIT - Two additional comments:

1. This thing is even more amazing with two Tenergy LiFePO4 batteries!
2. The cap has notches on either side for easy removal. I thought it might be a chip in the cap when I first opened it.

Thanks for the review Wylie. now I can't wait for mine to arrive.

 

[cypresss]

I received mine and it works with the new dual coils. With the original UFS configuration, the dual coil carto is long enough to go all the way through the top cap. BUT it has opened up a different potential problem... In Imeo's video, he takes off one of the upper sections of the UFS (the one just above the clear section) and screws the top directly onto the clear window. This would be for regular sized attys etc in a stealth mode. The problem is, mine won't screw onto the clear window. I am definitely not going to force it, since I've heard that the threads are easily stripped / cross-threaded, but it looks like the threads are slightly different. I've ordered another clear window from COV to see if the threads are different now than from the very first run. Any ideas?

 

[RippleInStillWater]

Wylie's picture above has the clear window still in it.

 

[cypresss]

I know, he is using a dual coil carto which is longer than your standard atty or carto. I'm talking about Imeo's video (original post in this thread, starting around 2:45) where he removes the metal section just above the clear window and screws the remaining cover with new cap directly to the window. It makes for a smaller UFS. And with the new cap, you can use a drip tip with a standard size atty. I just can't get my UFS into the smaller configuration, unless I'm missing something. The image below is what I'm talking about, except he is using a stainless window instead of the clear one...

ImageShack® - Stealth UFS

 

[Wylie]

Your post made me curious, so I had to see if I could screw the top metal piece directly to the window. It doesn't work for me, either.



EDIT: I tried my spare window thinking perhaps the threading was changed since I bought a 'first run' UFS. Still didn't work. I think when Imeo returns we can ask him, but for now I'll be using XL cartomizers.

 

[Giulio]

... BUT it has opened up a different potential problem... In Imeo's video, he takes off one of the upper sections of the UFS (the one just above the clear section) and screws the top directly onto the clear window. This would be for regular sized attys etc in a stealth mode. The problem is, mine won't screw onto the clear window. I am definitely not going to force it, since I've heard that the threads are easily stripped / cross-threaded, but it looks like the threads are slightly different. I've ordered another clear window from COV to see if the threads are different now than from the very first run. Any ideas?

With the clear window i had the same problem, I have two and it happens with both. On the steel "window" instead is screwed well.

 

[cypresss]

Well, I guess this is good and bad too. I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one, but sad to see that we won't be able to use the new cap to make the UFS smaller. On Imeo's video, his seems to screw on very easily. I had this problem with the AVS cap as well. Between the first run and subsequent runs, the wall thickness changed on the collector tank and the all-mods cap wouldn't fit mine. Had to buy another collector tank to get it to work. Seems like the only solution at the moment is to find a steel window, but to me the UFS isn't the same without the clear window.

 

[Zoranth]

Both of my clear windows work with just the top cap. Remove the o-ring from the top of the clear part then screw the cap on

 

[Wylie]

I tried that and even tried screwing the metal on both sides of the window. One side gets further than the other, but I'm not getting as far as the o-ring.

 

[cypresss]

Both of my clear windows work with just the top cap. Remove the o-ring from the top of the clear part then screw the cap on

It's definitely not the o-ring. I cant even get the metal piece started on either end. It's as if the threads are a different size or pitch.

And thanks Zor, this gives me some hope that the new clear window I ordered yesterday might work.

 

[silentt]

Both of my clear windows work with just the top cap. Remove the o-ring from the top of the clear part then screw the cap on

Mine won't thread onto it like that. I probably could but I don't want to force it.... maybe I should force it so I can buy a new SS window.


edit: NVM i made it thread and it's awesome. sorry about my last ^ comment. slap that sucker up with a bunch of vaseline

 

[silentt]

wow it works great with a dual coil in it. yum yum yum

edit: hello silents chin

 

[RippleInStillWater]

Beards are manly, silentt!!! That UFS is looking good!!!

 

[silentt]

I just redid it to match my ghetto taped up ggts

if you think beards are manly i should take a picture to show you the mutton chop sideburns I have right now they are so awesome, I will never shave them

 

[Para]

For folks who use cartos in the UFS......

How far up (from the bottom of the carto) do you punch a hole when you use them in the UFS?

 

[silentt]

I'm using my carto without a hole punched and it's working flawlessly Para