Unfortunately, the future of vaping is nothing..Djs: Yes, yes, and maybe. The 4.2 is correct my mistake and that I'd suspect fully charged and the charger plugged in. With nearing the shut-off and getting warm I would guess it can drop to 27-30. Still no popping anywhere, flavor just as good, uniform hissing sound unless it's been in a pocket, out in the cold, and has built some condensation and might gargle a bit. With a 0.5 this range is from 36w down to less than 8 maybe, but the popping is evident right from the 35w. So I would conclude it is not wattage related.
Bunny: I thought of this too, my running lean 2stroke theoryThe BVC has 4 holes on the side but there is an inner sleeve that makes two of them blind and between the inner outer cells there is a thin screen cottony material, but woven. I took a thin pin, needle like, and poked on the two holes, started with one and proceeded. This increases the juice flow some. No difference. So I triple checked the theory, and flooded the coil with juice and quickly put it together to minimize spilling. After some initial gargle the pop was there. These are obnoxious quick explosion like pops and they go on and on. The taste is almost non-existent.
This is all consistent with 3 different juices.
It is not like my life is ruined because of this, it is just intriguing to find the scientific explanation for the phenomenon.
I guess if they don't work I can tear them apart and see what's inside. Rebuilt them with looser cotton, burn away the hotspots, and see.
The future in vaping, electronic injection with an ozon and antiknock sensor, and platinum coils. We are still in the pre-ww2 era carburation.
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Agreed. I posted about changing power to make a point, and as a suggestion of a workaround. Ie try a different mod that CAN be adjusted, and see what happens with the popping then
Still no wire handy, plenty of good cotton, no ohm meter, no mod. Eager to find out what is what. So I carefully tor apart 0.5ohm generic BVC to see what's going on. Surprise surprise. From the 7/8 winding the middle three were spaced further apart and were black, the surrounding material was toast. I managed to straighten it out, burn it cool it, straighten, burn cool, burn cool, wrapped it not too tight, nearly sure it is not shorting anywhere, and plugged. Hisshhhhh...... hishhh...
A little harsh at first, even though it was dripping soaked, but a few circles of vaping and cooling and it actually tasted great.
So off I go to attack number 2. Identical behavior as described above. This one is made by Aspire, so I notice the insulator actually seems of better rubbery quality, not spongy like others. It was packed so tight I thought I'd have to risk breaking it. Finally the coil came out. Possible different wire quality/alloy, stiffer, shinier, but middle 2-3 coils charred just like the other. Spacing as well seemed wider in the middle. Maybe the way they pack the wick from the top does it. Same routine, maybe put a tighter wrap and maybe 10-20% more cotton on this. I fired it up, same result. Free breathing, hish, maybe a pop or two at first button push, and then fine.
I want to get some wire next week, and as I find venting to be too high flow, I might do a tighter 2.5mm try. Once I get my ohm meter I'll be experimenting some more.
I keep my 3week old 0.3ohm coil in the safe and have the dog watch it, because the longer I use it the closer to perfect it seems to get.
I'm also going to start boiling cotton, to get rid of this cottony taste.
A little harsh at first, even though it was dripping soaked, but a few circles of vaping and cooling and it actually tasted great.
So off I go to attack number 2. Identical behavior as described above. This one is made by Aspire, so I notice the insulator actually seems of better rubbery quality, not spongy like others. It was packed so tight I thought I'd have to risk breaking it. Finally the coil came out. Possible different wire quality/alloy, stiffer, shinier, but middle 2-3 coils charred just like the other. Spacing as well seemed wider in the middle. Maybe the way they pack the wick from the top does it. Same routine, maybe put a tighter wrap and maybe 10-20% more cotton on this. I fired it up, same result. Free breathing, hish, maybe a pop or two at first button push, and then fine.
I want to get some wire next week, and as I find venting to be too high flow, I might do a tighter 2.5mm try. Once I get my ohm meter I'll be experimenting some more.
I keep my 3week old 0.3ohm coil in the safe and have the dog watch it, because the longer I use it the closer to perfect it seems to get.
I'm also going to start boiling cotton, to get rid of this cottony taste.
Ohh.. and the amount of steam is coming out of this rebuilt nearly new Aspire 0.5 coil seems so extreme that I am seriously doubting the resistance listed. This is competition grade built. No more POPS!!!!!
No more POPS!!!!!
If you can manage to get a coil to fire without a wick on your device, before you mess with it otherwise, it should look like the glow on this (spaced or not):
There may be a hiss here but there should not be any pops if it is dry, adding liquid is when the pops start, if they are going to with the build in question/power used. What you reported above is poor spacing from a pre built coil so it was getting hot spots and uneven heating, resulting in more pops than normal due to the temperature variation across the coil. They still work like that, just not as nice as an evenly spaced coil. Rebuilding stock BVC's are problematic due to this basically being a pita to dry fire and adjust the hot spots, but obviously can be done if one is patient enough, so good job there.
There may be a hiss here but there should not be any pops if it is dry, adding liquid is when the pops start, if they are going to with the build in question/power used. What you reported above is poor spacing from a pre built coil so it was getting hot spots and uneven heating, resulting in more pops than normal due to the temperature variation across the coil. They still work like that, just not as nice as an evenly spaced coil. Rebuilding stock BVC's are problematic due to this basically being a pita to dry fire and adjust the hot spots, but obviously can be done if one is patient enough, so good job there.
At last, solid good advice. It is my conclusion as well that pops happen on hot spots, concentrated higher heat, where liquid vaporizes so abruptly, possibly with the wick and other liquid, that it is like a mini-explosion. Hot spots seem as problematic as cold spots, it takes a cooler coil to have a hot spot (higher resistance) which firing/burning and pinching or stretching and cooling fixes.
Another trick I thought about, to minimize bad spots, is that in most videos I've seen when they wrap wire around a stick, I use a screw, they hold the wire tight with their hand. If you try to do this with a thick rope or hose you can easily tell that it gets a twist, only if you keep turning it does it turn easily and does not twist. Industrial winding systems take this into account when they make coils, electrical or to store and transport wire/hose/rope. You may not realize this because it is thin (you do on a serpentine wire) but friction is such when you wrap it tight that it can not untwist itself. This increases the likelihood specially towards the last few winds where torsion is building up and some parts may be more twisted than others. This may very well create a hot spot that is unnecessary.
So try try to wind like it is a ribbon that has to remain flat and not twist. Stainless is good in this respect because it is springy and smooth and will slip in your hands while you are winding and avoid this.
Again, my 2c.
Another trick I thought about, to minimize bad spots, is that in most videos I've seen when they wrap wire around a stick, I use a screw, they hold the wire tight with their hand. If you try to do this with a thick rope or hose you can easily tell that it gets a twist, only if you keep turning it does it turn easily and does not twist. Industrial winding systems take this into account when they make coils, electrical or to store and transport wire/hose/rope. You may not realize this because it is thin (you do on a serpentine wire) but friction is such when you wrap it tight that it can not untwist itself. This increases the likelihood specially towards the last few winds where torsion is building up and some parts may be more twisted than others. This may very well create a hot spot that is unnecessary.
So try try to wind like it is a ribbon that has to remain flat and not twist. Stainless is good in this respect because it is springy and smooth and will slip in your hands while you are winding and avoid this.
Again, my 2c.
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