Newbie: Is this a good setup?

[Funky420]

Hello all,

I'm a pack a day Marlboro Red smoker, and I've decided enough is enough, I need to switch to e-cigs before it kills me. I've tried the gas-station variety of disposables, and found it to be not satisfying enough to motivate me to quit.

After some searches online, it seemed a box mod was the way to go, but this is all very new to me.

I probably should have asked before purchasing, but I decided to pull the trigger and buy:

Eleaf iStick 40W TC Temperature Control Mod

Smoktech TCT Temperature Control Dual Coil Tank

I've read that some atomizers are not compatible with some batteries, or something along those lines. Just wanted to make sure that this will be safe to use and if anyone has any advice I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[opticruby]

They should work fine together. The connection between the tank and eleaf is called a '510 thead',so anything that is '510 threaded' will fit perfect.

 

[Funky420]

I know people say this has a lot to do with personal tastes/preferences, but could anyone make a pg/vg ratio and %nicotine recommendation for a vape newbie/pack a day smoker?

 

[Panorama911]

70/30-PG/VG @ 12 to 24mg

 

[AXIOM_1]

Welcome Funky420 ...... Yes, those two together will work fine and actually make a pretty darn good system, that is if you desire lots of vapor production and nice strong hits..... You selected a mod that has temp control, which may be a bit much for someone new to mod systems but of course, you do not have to run it in temperature mode.... However you more than likely won't have to buy another setup for awhile.... The tank you selected contains 0.15 ohm coils ( which your mod can handle) and so you won't have any troubles firing the coils. Just keep in mind that the tank is a sub ohm tank and comes with low resistance coils which means you can run lots of power and get lots of vapor.

 

[edyle]

Hello all,

I'm a pack a day Marlboro Red smoker, and I've decided enough is enough, I need to switch to e-cigs before it kills me. I've tried the gas-station variety of disposables, and found it to be not satisfying enough to motivate me to quit.

After some searches online, it seemed a box mod was the way to go, but this is all very new to me.

I probably should have asked before purchasing, but I decided to pull the trigger and buy:

Eleaf iStick 40W TC Temperature Control Mod

Smoktech TCT Temperature Control Dual Coil Tank

I've read that some atomizers are not compatible with some batteries, or something along those lines. Just wanted to make sure that this will be safe to use and if anyone has any advice I would greatly appreciate it.

Sounds good.

Temperature control is still pretty new though.

 

[Funky420]

I decided to go with temperature control since the salesman at a local vape shop suggested it for newbies (didn't buy from him since he was charging almost double the price available online). I figured this way I don't risk "burning out the coils." I think i'm going to start off in the 400deg F range. AXIOM_1 indicated that it's more complicated to use in temp control mode. Can anyone explain why it might be better/simpler to use the wattage/voltage mode instead?

 

[AXIOM_1]

I decided to go with temperature control since the salesman at a local vape shop suggested it for newbies (didn't buy from him since he was charging almost double the price available online). I figured this way I don't risk "burning out the coils." I think i'm going to start off in the 400deg F range. AXIOM_1 indicated that it's more complicated to use in temp control mode. Can anyone explain why it might be better/simpler to use the wattage/voltage mode instead?

It is not necessarily more complicated it's just that most folks start with simpler units...at least they used to but it seems that before long most mods will be temperature controlled so that will be what most all people will start with. Lots of folks get confused when using menu systems and having to switch between modes but if you are comfortable with it then great, because it is definitely not complicated. Also keep in mind that when you buy replacement coils for your tank that you cannot purchase and use coils below 0.15 ohms otherwise your mod will not work. ........ 0.15 ohms is the lowest rated coils you can use with that mod. You can select coils higher than 0.15 ohms and you can go as far up as 3.5 ohms ..... Hope this helps

 

[Hans Wermhat]

70/30-PG/VG @ 12 to 24mg

That's a sub tank. 24mg nic is awful high. And it's a lung hitter, not a mouth-to-lung tank. It may be awkward for a beginner. I would definitely suggest a higher VG ratio, like a 30/70 VG/PG. PG can be very harsh in a sub tank.

 

[Panorama911]

That's a sub tank. 24mg nic is awful high. And it's a lung hitter, not a mouth-to-lung tank. It may be awkward for a beginner. I would definitely suggest a higher VG ratio, like a 30/70 VG/PG. PG can be very harsh in a sub tank.

I agree 100%...For some odd reason when I replied to the question the above posts were not available, it looked like that was the original post, then they did show after the fact.

I think I just did not scroll up far enough

 

[AXIOM_1]

That's a sub tank. 24mg nic is awful high. And it's a lung hitter, not a mouth-to-lung tank. It may be awkward for a beginner. I would definitely suggest a higher VG ratio, like a 30/70 VG/PG. PG can be very harsh in a sub tank.

I totally agree 100% with Hans ... When I got my first mod I made the mistake of getting a juice that was 70 PG and 30 VG plus it was 36MG nicotine. The first draw I took about blew my socks off and made me gag and cough not to mention that I walked sideways for a bit. I would recommend that you switch the ratio around and use 70 VG and only 30 PG because too much PG and it can be harsh on the throat.

 

[edyle]

I decided to go with temperature control since the salesman at a local vape shop suggested it for newbies (didn't buy from him since he was charging almost double the price available online). I figured this way I don't risk "burning out the coils." I think i'm going to start off in the 400deg F range. AXIOM_1 indicated that it's more complicated to use in temp control mode. Can anyone explain why it might be better/simpler to use the wattage/voltage mode instead?

1:
Start at the lowest setting and move up.

2:
(a) Temperature control is still pretty new.
(b) Currently temperature control is achieved by using nickel wire and the 'resistances' involved are very low; that means everything should work fine so long as all your electrical contacts are squeaky clean.

In the real world of mud, muck and rust, nothing stays squeaky clean for very long.

 

[Cdrabun]

I use the eleaf istick 50(non tc) and a kanger subtank mini that work wonders. I haven't really worked with temp control before but from what i can tell its more or less just help control dry burns, perhaps im wrong in assuming that. But if your goinng to be getting into rebuilding atomizers, i recommend titanium coils. From what i hear titanium coils last longer. But eleaf is a great brand in my experience

 

[dcfluegel]

welcome - you're in the right place

that is a much better set up than i started with - should keep you out of trouble for a good bit (until the shinyitis hits...)

 

[AXIOM_1]

Yes, I forgot to mention that in temp control mode, you will want to be using coils made from nickel in your tank .... When running in power /wattage mode, you can use plain ole Kanthal coils......... This is another reason why most people new to temp mods get confused is because they discover they have to use nickel coils in temp mode.

 

[Funky420]

1:
Start at the lowest setting and move up.

2:
(a) Temperature control is still pretty new.
(b) Currently temperature control is achieved by using nickel wire and the 'resistances' involved are very low; that means everything should work fine so long as all your electrical contacts are squeaky clean.

In the real world of mud, muck and rust, nothing stays squeaky clean for very long.

OK, so as my coil gets dirty, I just need to replace it with another nickel coil, right? Will my device start to display a higher ohm value when this happens, or is there some indication I would get from the quality of the vapor?

 

[edyle]

OK, so as my coil gets dirty, I just need to replace it with another nickel coil, right? Will my device start to display a higher ohm value when this happens, or is there some indication I would get from the quality of the vapor?

the muck and corrosion I was talking about are like on the electrical contact points, for example the centerpin connection between the mod and tank.

If you device shows higher ohm value that is an indication of poor electrical connections.

 

[AXIOM_1]

It depends upon what happens to your coils .... If they burn in half then your device will not fire and you will probably get a message that says to "check atomizer" ...... Your coils, more than often just degrade from being heated so many times and when this occurs, you either get lower vapor production, or a yucky tasting vape, or both. Coils will usually last anywhere from 1 to 4 weeks depending upon how much you vape etc.... I usually notice bad tasting vapor and so I then replace.

 

[suprtrkr]

That kit probably exceeds "good" and is heading toward "better." The only caveat is the iStick TC 40 is brand new-- its scheduled to ship this week for the first time-- so there no data on it from users of production mods, just prototypes. eLeaf had some trouble with inconsistent quality on the iStick 50, but the 20s and 30s are solid products. At that price, I'd say go for it. For juice, and a PAD smoker, I'd suggest 18mg of nicotine and a 50/50 PG/VG ratio; being prepared to adjust. PG gives throat hit and carries the flavor, VG makes fluffy white, dense vapor, but can cause cough/phlegm troubles in excess. If it's hurting your throat, back off the PG. Vapor too thin? Increase VG. Makung your head spin? Come down on the nic. Remember also you're going to have a lot of ability to adjust your vape with that gear.

Welcome to the board, and good luck giving Big Tobacco what they deserve. You're sure to have more questions as time goes on. Just ask

 

[Funky420]

the muck and corrosion I was talking about are like on the electrical contact points, for example the centerpin connection between the mod and tank.

If you device shows higher ohm value that is an indication of poor electrical connections.

I'm learning a whole lot from this thread. Is there any way to maintain the mod/tank connection(like cleaning it) to delay this from happening? When it does happen, do I just buy a new mod?