Newbie to coil making - questions about gauge and wraps

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rickyrickeric

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Please bear with me Folks, as I attempt to clearly explain my situation, without writing a small novel. I just got a new Kanger Subtank Mini, and have finally started to build my own coils. WOW! What an enormous improvement over my Protank 2 and Mini! I am looking forward to learning as much as I can about building really good coils.

Even as a smoker, I never enjoyed throat hit, and have managed to step down my dependence (as well as my tolerance) of nic by a ton. So now (don't laugh please), I am cutting my 3mg MBV Hawk Sauce with 0mg to net 1.5mg of nic, using max VG.

I have also tried sub-ohming, but no, definitely not the thing for me. WAY too hot and intense. I find that somewhere around 1.5 to 2 ohms is perfect for me. And yes, I still manage to get some vicious clouds and intense flavor, even at this high of a resistance.

The guy at the local B&M suggested I use 30g Kanthal, at somewhere @ 8 turns using the little screwdriver that came with my Subtank to wrap around, but I had a heck of a time getting the Japanese cotton into the coil with such a small diameter.. After seeing a video online where a builder used a screw to wrap the threads, I found one that you would use for mounting an electrical outlet into the wall holder. After a couple of experiments, I managed a coil with 6 turns that netted 1.8 ohms. I am vaping on it as I type, and so far, so good. In fact, it rocks.

So, my Kanger Subtank Mini, 30g of Kanthal with 6 turns @ 1.5mm (?), 1.8 ohms, and my Eleak iStick 20w set at 10 watts/4.2 volts.

So after all of this (if I haven't lost you by now), I am asking the veteran coil builders for their opinions. Am I doing this right? Is there a better way of doing this? Maybe a different wire gauge? Coil size? Remember, I do NOT want to sub-ohm, and I am looking for the mildest of hits. But I also enjoy clouds and flavor. Any suggestions/observations? Thanks!
 

Doffy

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30g sounds about right for what you seek. Being somewhere in the 6-8 wrap bracket generally gives a nice vape.

you could try ribbon anthal if you want more coil to wick surface area so more vapor

Screenshot_2013-09-22-18-13-05_zpsfdd5d50b.png


Just experimenting safely is the best way to learn. Kanthal and cotton are cheap
 

Fuzzy Bruce

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I also have a noobie question. When building coils for the RBA you don't have to use a torch but to rebuild a stock you do. Why is that?

Just a guess, but the reason to use a torch prior to wicking is twofold. First, the preheating takes the spring effect out of the wire, Second, the torching probably burns away any impurities that may be on the wire including the oils from handling.

Since I rebuild RDA's, I have the opportunity to preburn the coils prior to wicking so there is no chance of burning the wick material. Of course, if one uses the ceramic type fabric wick like ReadyX, you could ddry fire the coils in your tank.
 

jonig35

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Just a guess, but the reason to use a torch prior to wicking is twofold. First, the preheating takes the spring effect out of the wire, Second, the torching probably burns away any impurities that may be on the wire including the oils from handling.

Since I rebuild RDA's, I have the opportunity to preburn the coils prior to wicking so there is no chance of burning the wick material. Of course, if one uses the ceramic type fabric wick like ReadyX, you could ddry fire the coils in your tank.
would by any chance a person be able to put it on the RBA section with the leads left long and fire it if they have no torch or would that cause a short?
 

rickyrickeric

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If you dont already know here's an invaluable tool.......... Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

If you are satisfied with the vape, you are doing it right. Some of my best performing coils were the ugliest. Go figure.:facepalm:

Thank you, my Brutha. Yeah, I guess I'm just a little surprised how easy re-building coils has turned out to be. In fact, I even took on re-building one of my Protank 2 coils (now 30g at 1.5 ohms), as well as the .5 ohm stock Subtank coil (now 30g at 1.6 ohms), and was successful with both. This is actually a lot of fun!
And yes, I do have that same link saved. :vapor:
 
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rickyrickeric

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Yeah, I continue to learn a lot as I go along. :vapor:

I am now using 28g Kanthal, with eight wraps around my trusty electrical outlet screw, which appears to be @ 3mm. This yields @ 1.5 ohms, and I am using my 20-watt iStick at 12 watts with this build. Still loving my Subtank Mini, and still totally in love with Japanese cotton.

One day, I will foray into sub-ohming. But for now, what I have is working so much better than I could have possibly imagined, so it's difficult to envision the next step.

And to think that I was so content with my old Protank 2 for so long. No, I am not knocking the Protank stuff. They work well for what they do. It's just that I still cannot believe just how much better my Subtank Mini with my own coil builds works.
 

93gc40

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Funny thing is I got a mech mod, a Kayfun and a kick, instead of an Istick or MVP, in order to try sub-OHM in the dripper I already had. 5 months later, I have a subohm .5 coil in my dripper, that I never use. In the Kayfun I run basically the same 1.8-2ohm coils I did in my Mini PT3/EGO1100. I just do it at a constant 8-10 watts, thanks to the kick.
 
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