Ni200 pure Nickel Wire

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KenD

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I haven't used it yet, so I'm sure that some who have can provide some practical advice. I'll say this, ni200 is pure nickel wire and completely different from kanthal. It should only be used in devices with temperature protection/control (the DNA40 and its clones) as it invariably gives coils of very low resistance and is potentially very harmfull if overheated (heated to the point where it glows, so no dry burning or heat adjusting coils, and possibly before that).
 

Dampmaskin

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Ni200 is not Kanthal, and Kanthal is not Ni200. They're different kinds of metals. Kanthal is made from iron, chromium and aluminium. Ni200 is pure nickel.

But you generally wrap the coils the same way. Even though with Ni200 spaced coils may be better than touching ("micro") coils, because touching coils can disturb the temperature sensing of the DNA40.

I have a mild nickel allergy, and I have no problems using Ni200 wire. YMMV.
 

Woofer

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is potentially very harmfull if overheated (heated to the point where it glows, so no dry burning or heat adjusting coils, and possibly before that).

I disagree, perhaps you have a link to support your statement. I would like to read it.

Just to reiterate, do not attempt to use ni200 with a device that does not have temperature protection!!

Hi Jon, why do you say that. If the mod can handle the at rest resistance what is the problem, What am I missing
 

Fr3ker

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The advantage of ni200 is when paired with a dna40 or Sx350j device you can regulate the temperature of your vape

True, Ni200 are best on DNA40 ... I attend to fix this on my Nemesis+BigBlock

Just to reiterate, do not attempt to use ni200 with a device that does not have temperature protection!!

I disagree, perhaps you have a link to support your statement. I would like to read it.



Hi Jon, why do you say that. If the mod can handle the at rest resistance what is the problem, What am I missing
Guys ... I've tried a few sets of coiling techniques & found out spaced coils are better rather than micro and unlike Kanthal I've to do more wraps for a coil. I'm talking about 15wraps minimum on a 2mm diameters
 
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Tagi

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I get better performance from non spaced coils, but reports say that non spaced can be problematic. Don't be afraid to give them a try. Its good to do a preheat with ni200 coils before ever wicking. Both contact and non contact can work, just like with kanthal I contact seems to have better vapor production and feels warmer. Try both and see which one you prefer, Wire is cheap play with it.
 

Fr3ker

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I get better performance from non spaced coils, but reports say that non spaced can be problematic. Don't be afraid to give them a try. Its good to do a preheat with ni200 coils before ever wicking. Both contact and non contact can work, just like with kanthal I contact seems to have better vapor production and feels warmer. Try both and see which one you prefer, Wire is cheap play with it.
But to have a non spaced coils with an ni200 wire 14wraps & above is needed on a 2mm diameter .. IMO
 

Tagi

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28 gauge ni200 16 wraps around a 7/64 drill bit contact coil. My vaporshark reports .17ohms with no fluctuations.


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Woofer

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The reason contact coils often do not work well with DNA40 and Ni200 is the nickel does not form a non conductive oxide like kanthal does.
That means the coils can and do short and that short affects the resistance causing it to jump around, the DNA needs stable resistance in TL mode.

My go to coil is 9 wraps of 28 awg on an 8-32 screw. ID is 3ish MM. About 0.14 ohms
 

Fr3ker

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The reason contact coils often do not work well with DNA40 and Ni200 is the nickel does not form a non conductive oxide like kanthal does.
That means the coils can and do short and that short affects the resistance causing it to jump around, the DNA needs stable resistance in TL mode.

My go to coil is 9 wraps of 28 awg on an 8-32 screw. ID is 3ish MM. About 0.14 ohms
What if I'm on a mech mod? 14wraps 28 on a 2mm° gets me only 0.08 ...

Quite warm on the mechanical body...
 

T4T3Z0R

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What if I'm on a mech mod? 14wraps 28 on a 2mm° gets me only 0.08 ...

Quite warm on the mechanical body...

i wouldn't use it in a mech mod. the type of nickel oxide that is formed through pyrolysis is nasty to inhale and can cause lung lesions. I know that dry nickel powder will form nickel oxide at 400 degrees Celsius. now while i don't know if that holds true for actual wire, and while i cant imagine a saturated coil getting to that temp, knowing what nickel oxide does to the lungs i personally would rather play it safer and not torch nickel or use it on non tp mods. the whole point of using nickel wire is that the dna 40 can use it to find out the temp of the coil because there is a predictable rise in resistance as nickel heats. if you were to use nickel on a mech you might start at .08 but the resistance would quickly rise. i cant imagine you'd get much consistency in your vape
 
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Fr3ker

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i wouldn't use it in a mech mod. the type of nickel oxide that is formed through pyrolysis is nasty to inhale and can cause lung lesions. I know that dry nickel powder will form nickel oxide at 400 degrees Celsius. now while i don't know if that holds true for actual wire, and while i cant imagine a saturated coil getting to that temp, knowing what nickel oxide does to the lungs i personally would rather play it safer and not torch nickel or use it on non tp mods. the whole point of using nickel wire is that the dna 40 can use it to find out the temp of the coil because there is a predictable rise in resistance as nickel heats. if you were to use nickel on a mech you might start at .08 but the resistance would quickly rise. i cant imagine you'd get much consistency in your vape
Ouch, now this one shakes me a bit... Better back to Kanthal or Nichrome 80, thanks buddy
id be interested if anybody knows at what point nickel begins to glow to ascertain whether or not is safe to do any sort of non tp dry firing to check for pre wicking adjustments and checking for hotspots
And ... I don't really get this one. Would like to hear responses tho [emoji106]
 

Woofer

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i wouldn't use it in a mech mod. the type of nickel oxide that is formed through pyrolysis is nasty to inhale and can cause lung lesions. I know that dry nickel powder will form nickel oxide at 400 degrees Celsius. now while i don't know if that holds true for actual wire, and while i cant imagine a saturated coil getting to that temp, knowing what nickel oxide does to the lungs i personally would rather play it safer and not torch nickel or use it on non tp mods. the whole point of using nickel wire is that the dna 40 can use it to find out the temp of the coil because there is a predictable rise in resistance as nickel heats. if you were to use nickel on a mech you might start at .08 but the resistance would quickly rise. i cant imagine you'd get much consistency in your vape

Pyrolysis is a thermochemical decomposition of organic material at elevated temperatures in the absence of oxygen (or any halogen). It involves the simultaneous change of chemical composition and physical phase, and is irreversible. Pyrolysis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I researched nickel oxide a while back and concluded that it is extremely unlikely that any can form in a vaporizer. YMMV
 
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