Nicostick Passthrough vs Nicostick 5V (box)

[HippyGirl]

So I made my first 5V mod, a 510 nicostick using two 14500s and the TI voltage regulator and, today, I made a 510 passthrough using my first nicostick...both work.

What I don't get, however, is why vapor produced by the 5V nicostick is SO much harsher than the PT? I checked the voltage of both by touching the red lead to the center of the atty connector and the black to the outside of the connector while pushing the switch...both show a little over 5V.

Any thoughts?

The reason I ask is that the more I try to use the 5V box, the less I like it...the vapor now tastes "scorched" (even when using a new atty and making sure it's wet), but the PT is performing GREAT! Huge clouds of vapor and really good flavor.

It would appear that either a)the 5V box is performing OVER 5V or b)the PT is performing UNDER 5V.

 

[thomas0407]

Hippy Girl my friend got some high voltage juice the outher day for 5-6 v mods and its kinda thick and provides tons of vapor i will get the web sight from him tomorrow and give to you, works great in my 5v mods.

 

[caesar]

The box mod tries to pump 5V and 2Amps in the 510 and if well built also manages to do so.

The PT mod also tries to pump 5V but at around 0,5Amps (if using USB port) or at least under 1,5A (if using some 5V power source) stops, faring just better then standard fully charged batts without being too powerful.

 

[WillyB]

I checked the voltage of both by touching the red lead to the center of the atty connector and the black to the outside of the connector while pushing the switch...both show a little over 5V.

Was this with both the atties connected, under load?

Along the lines of what Caesar said unless you have a very powerful power source for your PT, over 2A, under load the voltage is probably less than your battery box, when actually firing up your atty.

I made a 510 passthrough using my first nicostick...both work.

How did you make this. Did you use a USB cable and get an AC USB adapter?

 

[HippyGirl]

The box mod tries to pump 5V and 2Amps in the 510 and if well built also manages to do so.

The PT mod also tries to pump 5V but at around 0,5Amps (if using USB port) or at least under 1,5A (if using some 5V power source) stops, faring just better then standard fully charged batts without being too powerful.

I have a 5V/1000mah usb/wall "thing" on it's way (I guess they're called wall warts???), so I'll try it out on that when it arrives.

Thanks.

S

 

[HippyGirl]

Was this with both the atties connected, under load?

Along the lines of what Caesar said unless you have a very powerful power source for your PT, over 2A, under load the voltage is probably less than your battery box, when actually firing up your atty.

How did you make this. Did you use a USB cable and get an AC USB adapter?

"Both" attys???

"Under load"???

 

[WillyB]

"Both" attys???

"Under load"???

You can't check the actual vaping voltage unless you have an atty screwed in and being powered while you test. You have to check the voltages from inside the box.

if your wiring looks like this your red test lead would go to silver/aluminum connector. Your black lead to the black wire (or the ouside shell itself) where it connects to the 510 connector end. Now hit your button with the atty screwed in and check your voltage... under load.

I have a 5V/1000mah usb/wall "thing" on it's way

The 510 atty runs at about 2.5 ohms.

5V@1A (1000mA) X 2.5 ohms will give you an under load voltage when you press your button of only 2.5V. As Caesar mentioned 1.5A (1500mA) will give you a vapeable 3.75V. But if you are using a salvaged USB Cord for your box connection with it's thread like power wires, like off a mouse, these introduce a lot of additional resistance which means even a 1.5A wall wart may not be enough.

As I noted on another thread, forget the USB stuff if starting from scratch. just get one of these and jack it right into your PT's box.

Genuine DELTA SWITCHING AC ADAPTOR ADP-15GH B 5V 3A - eBay (item 290372974728 end time Dec-22-09 04:34:30 PST)

If you or someone you know has and old D-Link router laying around you probably already have one.

As far as your battery box being 'harsh' you could probably just tone down the voltage a tad with an inexpensive 1N4007 diode as Caesar recommended on another thread. The voltage drop is supposed to be about .7V. Another trusted member stated that this can vary with the newer ones (less drop) and by testing them your can fine tune your drop. You may find that a voltage of about 4.5V to be the true sweet spot... many do.

 

[caesar]

I have a 5V/1000mah usb/wall "thing" on it's way (I guess they're called wall warts???), so I'll try it out on that when it arrives.

Thanks.

S

1000mAh won't be enough, a 510 tends to draw 2000mAh at 5V. If it's a good adapter it will survive. If it's cheaply made it could catch fire!

"Both" attys???

"Under load"???

Let me try to interpret it:

Both setups, PT and box mod.

under load means while vaping them


Edit: WillyB, your post wasn't there when I wrote this

 

[ZoSo15]

Maybe try putting a higher resistance atomizer (anything but the original 510) on the one that's too harsh? 2.5 ohms at 5v = really hot.

I agree that the reason you're not getting the same thing from your passthrough is because you're not getting as much current. I just made my first PT (and I know its getting the full 5V) with an L2 510 atty and it hits beautifully (these are more like 3.5 ohms).

 

[Wagex]

pretty sweet mod
i like it

 

[HippyGirl]

OK, using WillyB's example and checking the 5V box to make sure I'm placing my probes in the correct places:

• Red probe to the solder point on the side of the switch that goes to the VR and black probe to the solder point on the outside of the batt connector...6.2 volts.
• Red probe to the solder point where it comes off the VR and goes to the center of the batt connector, black probe to the solder point on the outside of the batt connector...5.02 volts.

I'm thinking the 2nd scenario is the correct way to check. If so, then it's working properly.

On to the PT connected via my PC's USB...

With no VR in the way, I just need to touch the red probe to the solder point on the side of the switch that goes to the center of the batt connector and the black probe to the solder point on the outside of the batt connector...3.64 volts.

Hmmmm...so I need to bring down the voltage in the box using a 1N4007 diode and use an adapter as suggested for the PT. As far as the adapters (like used on an old router), I have MANY of these lying around (wouldn't toss them for some reason).

Off to research...

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH for your help!

Sherry

 

[Wireguy]

Forgetting about high voltage vaping for a minute, you may want to try something else.

I suspect that the exact voltage and battery combination is a personal preference. Before you try the diodes or resistors try removing the regulator and running the batteries in parallel instead of series. This will give you working voltage close to what you liked.

Just a thought.

 

[HippyGirl]

As I noted on another thread, forget the USB stuff if starting from scratch. just get one of these and jack it right into your PT's box.

Genuine DELTA SWITCHING AC ADAPTOR ADP-15GH B 5V 3A - eBay (item 290372974728 end time Dec-22-09 04:34:30 PST)

I have one...do I wire it into the box like I did the USB cord (red wire to the switch, black wire to the outside of the batt connector)???

May be a dumb question, but I'm still a little leery of electricity when it comes to something I'll be putting to my lips, KWIM?

I can see the headlines now...

"Local woman electrocuted while sucking Nicostick".

GAWD!

Sherry

 

[WillyB]

I have one...do I wire it into the box like I did the USB cord (red wire to the switch, black wire to the outside of the batt connector)???

Yes. I realized I had a 5V@2A supply from an old 2WIRE modem. I originally was going to install a mating DC power connector, but ended up just cutting the male plug off and just soldering the cable in the box, direct, just like you asked. Under load I get a full 5.1V. I think now I'm gonna grab a 1N4007 diode and something like this:

SPDT Micromini Toggle Switch - RadioShack.com

It will give me the option of using the diode side (with it's inherent voltage drop) at about 4.5V or straight through at 5.1V.

Hopefully the 1N4007 1A diode will hold up, Caesar stated it will at 1.5A loads or I'll test a 3A 1N5404 for drop.

Make sure you test everything for shorts/continuity before using them purty lips. Also a few dabs of hot glue where your power cable enters the box (for stress relief) is a good idea. I don't even use a gun, just heat the glue stick with a lighter and dab away.

BTW I've taken to using the ultra soft cartomizer condoms (with a hole of course) as my tip cover. Make the hole big enough for a juice bottle tip then you can also use it for dripping/tail piping without using the standard cart at all.

 

[RSV445]

I recently modded my Sidesho from Modern Vapor. I am reading 4.4V and it is vaping wonderfully. I am extremely happy with the performance from the Sidesho atty. Its amazing what a few tenths of a volt will do...

 

[HippyGirl]

Yes. I realized I had a 5V@2A supply from an old 2WIRE modem. I originally was going to install a mating DC power connector, but ended up just cutting the male plug off and just soldering the cable in the box, direct, just like you asked. Under load I get a full 5.1V. I think now I'm gonna grab a 1N4007 diode and something like this:

SPDT Micromini Toggle Switch - RadioShack.com

It will give me the option of using the diode side (with it's inherent voltage drop) at about 4.5V or straight through at 5.1V.

Hopefully the 1N4007 1A diode will hold up, Caesar stated it will at 1.5A loads or I'll test a 3A 1N5404 for drop.

Make sure you test everything for shorts/continuity before using them purty lips. Also a few dabs of hot glue where your power cable enters the box (for stress relief) is a good idea. I don't even use a gun, just heat the glue stick with a lighter and dab away.

BTW I've taken to using the ultra soft cartomizer condoms (with a hole of course) as my tip cover. Make the hole big enough for a juice bottle tip then you can also use it for dripping/tail piping without using the standard cart at all.

OK...I put the diode (IN4004) between the usb cord and the switch, right? If that's true, then I assume I'm just goint to solder the red wire from the usb to one side of the diode and then solder the other side of the diode to another piece of wire and then solder THAT wire to the switch?

ETA...it looks like these diodes have two sides, anode and cathode. Which side goes to the switch?????

Is this correct or am I showing my lack-o-learnin?

Thanks for your help,

Sherry

 

[WillyB]

OK...I put the diode (IN4004) between the usb cord and the switch, right? If that's true, then I assume I'm just goint to solder the red wire from the usb to one side of the diode and then solder the other side of the diode to another piece of wire and then solder THAT wire to the switch?

No. I would put it last in the chain, switch to the atty.

They are directional.

Diodes

 

[HippyGirl]

The output of the adapter I have is 5V, 2.5 amps.

I stripped the ends of the wire. It's stranded wire, but there are a LOT of strands...much more than, say, the AA batt box leads I'm used to working with.

Can I cut some of these strands away or must I use ALL of the strands as is?

Thanks,

Sherry

 

[HippyGirl]

I ended up not trying to cut out any of the strands. I tinned the wires, sort of flattened them and soldered them onto the switch/batt conn.

I decided to make one for an 801 instead of the 510, so I now have a true 5V PT for my 801 and it's working perfectly...great flavor and HUGE vapor!

Now to get my maintenance man to dig through the DOZENS and DOZENS of abandoned power adapters I have at the hotel to see if we have any useable for this!

Thanks!

Sherry

 

[shopgirl284]

I want to make a 5V nicostick wall wart passthrough for my 510.

Let me preface this by saying I am mechanically and electronically challenged. Fortunately, my father knows what he is doing, and he will be making the passthrough for me, but I have to do the research for him. (And yes I considered just buying a passthrough, but my dad has all the parts lying around his house, so it is pretty much costing me one battery connector that he is converting to an RCA adapter)

Am I to understand that a 5V 3A AC adaptor will work? Many have mentioned using an AC adaptor from an old D-Link router and I know we have at least a couple of those around the house.

Can this adaptor be wired straight from the connector (of course with one side running through the switch)? Will it require any voltage regulation? If there is any specific test of the voltage that he will need to perform, what would that be?