No Gurgling ? Protank 2 Mini

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Danrogers

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I have been viewing a lot of Utube videos on rebuilding my Protank 2 mini. Almost everyone says their tanks leak and gurgle, mine does not, nor my wife's. We are still using the cheap crappy Kanger coils, I will be soon be rebuilding and making my own coils. My question is do the tanks only leak/gurgle after someone has rebuilt the coil or am I just one of the lucky few?
 

Katya

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I have been viewing a lot of Utube videos on rebuilding my Protank 2 mini. Almost everyone says their Tanks leak and gurgle, mine does not, nor my wife's. We are still using the cheap crappy Kanger coils, I will be soon be rebuilding and making my own coils. My question is do the tanks only leak/gurgle after someone has rebuilt the coil or am I just one of the lucky few?

I've been using Kanger coils since February 2013. Never had any gurgling. I don't rebuild, but I keep them clean and I use clean, clear e-liquids. If you learn how to use them properly, they are very user-friendly. A lot of complaints I read about clearomizers gurgling or leaking or delivering dry hits is due to user error/unfamiliarity with tanks. There's a learning curve with those--vaping is not as uncomplicated as smoking. :D
 

Maiar

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Been using kanger coils, both single and dual for months now. Never had any issues with gurgling in any of my evod 1 and 2's protank 2 or emow. Well I did a little bit at the start but that was me learning how to use the things. At worst now when you fire the button the sound will change from a healthy hissing sound to a somewhat muted hissing, almost a gurgle. But I don't get any sensation of gurgling or juice in the center post or anything. My aspire products on the other hand... they gurgle all the time. If it does happen though you can take the post off the coil and replace the flavor wicks with some tightly rolled cotton from a regular old cotton ball. I still have to do that with some of my higher PG juices. Stuff is so thin it's pretty much guaranteed to escape eventually. Take that .... out if you switch to high VG though, don't torch your throat like I did lol
 

Rickajho

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I can make any Kanger BCC a total mess by not using it right. So I don't do that. The most common reasons for leaking, gurgling, flooding, spitting up the mouthpiece etc. are:

Simply running the things too damned hot. Just because you have a high voltage/wattage option doesn't mean it's a good idea. The Kanger BCC design does not work well at nor need high heat.

Trying to then compensate running them too hot by removing top wicks and removing the silicone cap on the vent tube - which then leads to leaking and flooding. That silicone cap on the vent tube is there for a reason - to keep liquid inside the tank. Because the coil is now being flooded vapor production actually goes down, not up. And what do they then do? Turn the wattage up even higher. :facepalm: And then the complaints start flooding in (pun intended) about everything tasting burnt and coils only lasting two days.

Sucking on the thing like you are trying to give birth. Why some people pull on these clearos like they are sucking on a McDonald's milkshake I'll never understand. Suck hard enough and long enough and you blow - or suck - right past the partial vacuum keeping the liquid in the tank, suck it right up the mouthpiece, and then dump it out the 510 connector and all over the battery when you let go.

So you two must not be doing any of that. :D
 

Katya

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Hehehe... I've learned the hard way.

The learning curve:

f your clearo is flooding, the connections are not tight enough--or too tight. Keep reading.

If you're using clearos and getting a burnt taste it means that not enough juice is getting to the coil and you're basically vaping dry, hot air or inhaling smoke from the gunk that's burning off of your coil. Not a good thing. Another case of bad taste maybe the tank itself--some arrive covered with some kind of nasty grease; wash them with soap and water (just the tanks--soak the coils in PGA or vodka).

There are a few things you need to remember when using a T3 or an eVod or a ProTank--in addition to keeping your coils clean and free of gunk that accumulates on them.

1) Make sure that the atomizer coil is screwed into the base tightly--every time you refill; they often come not fully tightened from the manufacturer, or may have gotten loose through repeated refills.

2) Look at all the inner seals and gaskets to make sure they haven't become dislodged.

3) Make sure that you screw the tank into its base tightly. If it's not tight, it will leak.

4) When you screw your clearomizer into your battery, do not overtighten--screw it in only until it makes contact--no farther, or you may push the center post in too deep and cause all kinds of problems, including leaking. When the draw becomes tight or the taste and vapor production begin to diminish, replace the coil. This will happen sooner (even as soon as one day of heavy use) if you're using dark, viscous, or very sweet juices. The old coil can be cleaned and dry burned.

5) Make sure you're not getting any juice in the center tube when you're filling--this will cause your eVod to leak like a sieve. If some juice gets into the tube, close the top cap, place a tissue under your tank and blow gently through the clearomizer to get rid of any excess eliquid. Also, extra condensation inside the tank may, on some occasions, drip back into the center tube. Wipe your mouthpiece dry with a q-tip or a tissue when you refill (or more often when/if needed).

6) Take an occasional "primer puff" (a slow draw without activating the battery) when you vape. It helps move the juice into the coil chamber and removes any air bubbles that sometimes form in the tank and may cause gurgling or impede proper wicking.

7) New clearomizers (Aerotanks etc.) come with a clever airflow adjustment base--make sure you adjust the settings to your liking.

8) Take slow long draws rather than sharp and quick ones like we used to do while smoking cigarettes. Do not over vape, chain vape, power vape. Let the juice travel to the coil between drags.

9) Do not remove any flavor wicks if you're experiencing any leaking or flooding. Those wicks are there for a reason. If you feel that you have to remove a wick because your eliquid is particularly thick, do it carefully--one strand at a time. If your liquid is super thin, you can thicken it with a bit of VG (USP--pharma grade) or you can add another strand of cotton to your flavor wick. Don't add too much or you'll choke your atomizer and get a dry hit.

and last but not least:

10) Keep the coils and wicks clean (search ECF or YouTube for detailed coil cleaning instructions). Discard when when flavor and vapor start to diminish. Those coils are disposable.

Also, make sure you're vaping at correct wattages; Kanger recommends 5.5-7.5 watts for single coils. Dual coils require a bit more wattage than single coils. They also benefit from increased airflow. :facepalm:
 

edyle

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I have been viewing a lot of Utube videos on rebuilding my Protank 2 mini. Almost everyone says their Tanks leak and gurgle, mine does not, nor my wife's. We are still using the cheap crappy Kanger coils, I will be soon be rebuilding and making my own coils. My question is do the tanks only leak/gurgle after someone has rebuilt the coil or am I just one of the lucky few?

The longer you use 1 coils on a bottom coil clearomizer the more it leaks/gurgles/floods; meanwhile gunk tends to collect on the coil, so between the leaking and gurgling you end up changing the coils after .... I'm estimating somewhere between 5 and 20 ml eliquid depending on the liquid.

Note: you can just cotton rewick your protank coils 5 or 10 ten times instead of also recoiling it.
If you really want to recoil, it makes more economical sense to get a proper rebuildable with posts and screws that you secure the coil ends onto.
 

Katya

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A question about rebuilding PT2 coils. Do you guys use 32g kanthal and wind your own coils? No problems with hot legs scorching the insulator?

I saw pre-made NR-R-NR coils on Fasttech, both Nichrome (33 g is the lowest gauge though) and kanthal. Anybody used them? If so, which ones would you recommend? I like the the NR-R-NR wire--that's what Kanger is using.

Loose coils. 1.8Ω, 2mm:

$3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Kanthal--1.7mm, 2mm:

$3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They also have tightly coiled version, 2mm diameter, 2Ω :

$2.16 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 30*30mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Any thoughts?
 

danny4x4

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Katya, I've never tried the premade Nr-R-Nr coils from fasttech myself, but I read that they're pretty ok, although some of the coils would break easily at the joints.

I did try to make my own Nr-R-Nr coils by twisting/tying the joints. Performance wise, there wasn't much of a difference. I understand the point is to prevent scorching of the insulator, but if you were to try coiling your own microcoil and firing the coil, you would notice that the legs should not get red hot. Hence the risk of scorching the insulator is lessened. The hassle of joining the wires is why I don't use Nr-R-Nr. Also, the resistance has a tendency to creep up due to the joints not making connection with each other. But that's probably due to my lack of skills in joining the wires. :(

Why not try your hand at coiling your own? I started with 32awg but now prefer 30awg in the kanger clearos. As for the insulator, you can buy a food grade silicone hose and cut it to size instead of buying the original insulators (from ebay). Price wise, the hose can last you a long long time. I'll try to pm you the link in two days time if you're interested.

Katya, I also want to thank you for helping me with my questions when I first started out. I've never forgotten the help I received from you. THANKS!!!!!
 

edyle

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A question about rebuilding PT2 coils. Do you guys use 32g kanthal and wind your own coils? No problems with hot legs scorching the insulator?

I saw pre-made NR-R-NR coils on Fasttech, both Nichrome (33 g is the lowest gauge though) and kanthal. Anybody used them? If so, which ones would you recommend? I like the the NR-R-NR wire--that's what Kanger is using.

Loose coils. 1.8Ω, 2mm:

$3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Kanthal--1.7mm, 2mm:

$3.30 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires w/ Wicks - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 1-wick at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

They also have tightly coiled version, 2mm diameter, 2Ω :

$2.16 Pre-Coiled Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (50-Pack) 50-pack - 33 AWG / 1.8ohm / 30*30mm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Any thoughts?

Yes; for 2 or 3 bucks, if you're ordering stuff from fasttech it's one of those things ('one of those' things like - beauty rings, adapters, replacement glass tanks, ceramic tweezers, ceramic drip tips!!, long and/or angled drip tips; all kinds of little usefull assessories) worth throwing in if you got use for it;
I actually ordered a pack in June:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1620601
and received them this month 3 weeks ago; I ordered them to use in protanks, but now, I have since gotten 10m rolls of 34,32,30 and 28 gauge kanthal and rba's and rda's so they're still unused and just sitting in my box o vape stuff.

One odd thing though is the middle part is black; I wonder if it's pretorched ?
 

Katya

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Yes; for 2 or 3 bucks, if you're ordering stuff from fasttech it's one of those things ('one of those' things like - beauty rings, adapters, replacement glass tanks, ceramic tweezers, ceramic drip tips!!, long and/or angled drip tips; all kinds of little usefull assessories) worth throwing in if you got use for it;
I actually ordered a pack in June:
https://www.fasttech.com/p/1620601
and received them this month 3 weeks ago; I ordered them to use in protanks, but now, I have since gotten 10m rolls of 34,32,30 and 28 gauge kanthal and rba's and rda's so they're still unused and just sitting in my box o vape stuff.

One odd thing though is the middle part is black; I wonder if it's pretorched ?

Thanks. My previous orders from FT took only 11-14 days to CA (they sat for 6 days in SF). :D

WRT the look of that wire, my modding friends tell me that it's normal--that's what nichrome wire looks like. I'd still clean it though before using it.
 

wheelie

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I have been viewing a lot of Utube videos on rebuilding my Protank 2 mini. Almost everyone says their Tanks leak and gurgle, mine does not, nor my wife's. We are still using the cheap crappy Kanger coils, I will be soon be rebuilding and making my own coils. My question is do the tanks only leak/gurgle after someone has rebuilt the coil or am I just one of the lucky few?

I have 5- authentic Kanger Protank 2 and 4- authentic Kanger protank3 minis and none leak. Don't get authentic Kanger mixed up with fakes. I used rebuilt, authentic coils and cloned coils and never had any leaks in any of the tanks. CHEERS!
 

Katya

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I wrap 30ga wire 5-6 wraps around a 1/16" drill bit. The reason for the 1/16" bit is that it will fit in the slots so you can hold the coil in place while you deal with the legs. I tried a bigger bit but it does not fit like the 1/16" bit. I've never had much of a problem with hot legs or burned insulators.

TY--so what resistance are getting from that build?

I know, I could look it up... :blush:
 

edyle

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TY--so what resistance are getting from that build?

I know, I could look it up... :blush:

When you buy the premade nr-r-nr, you specify which ohms you want; doen't matter what wraps you use, the ohms depends on the length and gauge of the r part of the nr-r-nr part of the wire.

The pack I bought are 2 ohm

Pre-made Welded Wires - NR-R-NR (100-Pack)2.0ohm / 0.17mm / 30*30mm
 
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