No vapors at all with Ce5

[fiddleshe]

I bought a eGo Twist and it came with a Ce5. I bought some mini Protank 2's to go with it but I thought I would at least see if I liked the Ce5. I put some admittedly thick juice in the Ce5 and I get no vapor at all even if I draw hard. It's been over a day so the juice should be soaked up into it. Am I doing something wrong?

 

[chikkaccino]

Possible that it was a bum coil to start? It happens.

 

[fiddleshe]

No idea how do I find out?

 

[chikkaccino]

Use an ohm meter... or...

Since you have a twist, you'd have to take the CE5 apart (the tank would have to be drained, rinse and dry it first), under that you'd see the coil. Connect it to the ego without the tank, fire it for about 2-3 seconds, and if there is no glow to the coil, it was dead on arrival.

 

[j3illy]

I'm using CE4's & a few CE5's right now (the CE5 is just a rebuildable CE4 I think). Out of 8 so far, I've had 1 bad 1. The coil didn't heat up properly so it barely hit. I drained it out and it worked fine in another 1. I dunno if it was just coincidence, but it was the thickest juice I've had, which is known to not be so great in this type of wick clearo. Other than that, I have no real complaints w/ these. I have 5 in rotations right now w/ different flavors, and I'm still using the 1st 1 out of the bunch, which hits/tastes fine.

Not everyone is gonna get this type of performance w/ cheap gear tho. I prefer vaping thin juice which is better suited for these, and not too much more than 1 mL a day total. My typical button push is only for 2-3 seconds, and if someone was taking bigger puffs I'm sure there'd be burnt hits. I have a nice nicotine strength, so I have no use or desire to try and make big clouds. At any rate, I think you probably have a bad clearo, cuz even my thick dark juice still worked in another clearo.

 

[fiddleshe]

Ok after taking it apart, rinsing it (no drying) and messing with it one of the wires of the coil isn't attached to the rest of it, while the other side is soldered to the inner metal piece. I reattached it manually no solder and put it back together and it sizzles. I put more juice in it, and i sometimes get a little taste but thats it. Wonder if I need to solder it to the outer metal piece? I hate soldering I suck at it.

 

[OldSeer]

Question... When you say Ce5... is that the clearomizer with the very deep well... reaching inside
to the contact pin of the clearomizer...???

If so... here's a simple fix it solution...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...thread-contact-clearomizer-mod-batteries.html

That quick FIX IT trick is the LEAST KNOWN... best one in the book
for saving money on clearomizers... that's around today... Share it
when possible... I really would appreciate it... as a thank you to all
of those who've helped me and others in need of vaping information.

 

[fiddleshe]

Well I took it apart again to take pictures to explain, and the wick came apart. Grrrr. Guess its probably useless now unless I change out the wick and coil. I don't think I can replace the wick alone. Anyways, since I took the pictures here they are.

 

[j3illy]

You can get replacement wicks for a CE5, since they're made to be rebuildable. But that 1 doesn't look right. Mine don't have the 2 holes on each side like that, which I thought was supposed to be for the wickless type of CE's. I have a few CE5's, but I kind of prefer the CE4's, since they're a good 1/4" shorter without the thick base. The CE5's may hit a little more than the CE4's, but I have no interest in rebuilding them since they're not much more than a buck a piece.

 

[fiddleshe]

It might not be a Ce5 then. Thats what I was told it was from the local store. I have no idea what it costs since it came with the eGo Twist. Right now I am out of funds to buy anything else. So it is put in my parts box until another day.

 

[chikkaccino]

That's a CE5 alright... a CE5+. Most likely though you're going to enjoy those ProTanks a lot better. I had the CE5 for a few days before doing research and deciding to get the ProTanks. Those are completely rebuildable, all you need is some Kanthal wire (100 ft for about $6) and a cotton ball. No soldering needed.