Hello, used the search and couldn't find exactly what I need. Wich is better hollow silica or solid? What is the main differences between the two? And is there any wire covering I can insulate the hot leg with. I was thinking of useing plastic I think covering from inside a tv coaxial cable. The cheaper ones are pretty thin and could be shaved with a exato. Or striping some small gauge wire. My last idea was the hollow silica with the hot leg inside and ths ground out. Is my thinking wrong? Dont want to be vapeing burnt any thing.
Noob coil and wick questions
- Thread starter Superhawk
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a proper coil should not have a "hot leg"
and silica or solid... what solid are you talking about? amorphous silica (used for wick) is a soild.
what are you trying to rebuild, and what type of coil are you trying to make?
You should try wrapping your coil around a 16g needle, making a micro coil. This way has been easier for me to learn to wrap coils. Also you should pick up a bag of Organic Cotton balls from the grocery store and use cotton as a wic. Just wrap the coil around the needle, install it into whatever RBA or protank head and then thread some cotton through it. Just dont ever dryburn the cotton. Always apply juice to it before you heat it or it'll burn. Cotton is super easy to re-wick and you dont even need to make a new coil, just pull the cotton out and put new cotton in.
I picked up a pro2. Right now I'm using surgical cotton and 28 gauge wire 6 wraps. It shorts out. What I was calling the hot leg is the one that goes straight down through the grommet. It tested out at 1.8 and worked but if it is handled rough the slightest bit or jostled it shorts. I wanted to buy some silica wick and they had hollow or solid. Wandering witch to buy. Thanks for any help.
the kanger protank heads use non-resistance wire for the leads or "legs" welded to resistance wire (Kanthal) for the coil wraps.
the non resistance wire will not get hot. they do this because if the lead gets hot enough it will melt and burn the rubber grommet and cause a really bad taste and it could short out if it melted away the grommet.
i replace the wicks in my kanger heads buy just pulling out the old wick carefully and threading a new wick in the coil by twisting the new wick so that it compresses the threads and pushing it into the coil. pretty much like threading a giant needle.
people have had good luck building micro coils for the protank heads, i am not one of them.
the non resistance wire will not get hot. they do this because if the lead gets hot enough it will melt and burn the rubber grommet and cause a really bad taste and it could short out if it melted away the grommet.
i replace the wicks in my kanger heads buy just pulling out the old wick carefully and threading a new wick in the coil by twisting the new wick so that it compresses the threads and pushing it into the coil. pretty much like threading a giant needle.
people have had good luck building micro coils for the protank heads, i am not one of them.
you can try snipping the little lip off the grommet(that end that is inserted into the head. Sometimes that can mess up the leads. Also make sure you are bending the leads over the end of the metal. Insert the coil into the top of the protank head, flip it over, bend the shorter of two ends over the metal lip, now insert the other lead through the grommet and slide the grommet into the head. Once you have the first lead bent and the grommet inserted with the second lead going through it, bend the second lead over the rubber grommet, preferably on the opposite side of the first lead. Insert the last metal piece and trim the wires as close as possible. Make sure you keep your coil alligned correctly on the top of the head(so you can properly put the wic into it) I like to keep a paper clip through the coil while i have it flipped over and im putting everything together.
Does this make sense? Sorry if its confusing lol
Does this make sense? Sorry if its confusing lol
Try rebuilding a protank after watching this video Mini Protank Micro Coil Rebuild - YouTube
I've been hand wraping thanks for the lnfo! I think I got it now. We will see. Just very disapointed with the tank. Muted flavor and every third or foruth toot tastes like sheet burnt. I was thinking it is a wicking problem because if I let it sit for a wile it goes away.
You might be using too much cotton, it should be kinda loose when you thread it, just slightly smaller than the coil
Yeah, that can be a problem with silica. Cotton does wick faster. Use a tiny amount. I've had great luck with my Protank 2. It's my daily vape.
Yup I was thinking more cotton more juice better vape. In the morning when im fresher I'm going to try to re wick my spare with cotton and stop with the wraping for now. Just couldn't believe how crappy it tasted out of the box. My 30s blows this thing out of the watter on taste but the pro2 has a tighter draw and more vapor. Thank you all for the help i'll let you know how it works.
There's no need to insulate the legs in a PT head. The little rubber grommet you put in the bottom does that for you if you do it right (one leg inside the grommet, one outside). I use a 1/16" or 3/32" drill bit to wrap on, leave the coil on it then set the whole thing in the head, put the grommet back in, then the bottom pin, remove the drill bit and wick it with a tiny bit of cotton.
Easy peasy. Works beautifully, haven't gotten a dry hit from a protank since.
Easy peasy. Works beautifully, haven't gotten a dry hit from a protank since.
Well after following you guys advice it's much better. The taste still isn't on par with the 30s not bad but not as good. The vape is fantastic. I chain vape the iclear but if I try it with pro 2 I turn green its much more effective. Here's what l came up with before triming. The long side I folded back over for a flavor wick. Can't figure how to post a picture. Works well thanks again.
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