Noob questions about types of wire.

[Evilcon666]

So far I've only used Kanthal.. I'm looking into venturing into either

NiChrome, Titanium, and or Stainless Steel so I can take advantage of temp control.

My main question is what are the pro/cons about each type?

Like does one vape better, or more flavor, etc etc.

Sorry if it's been answered before

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[sonicbomb]

Nichrome is used the same way as kanthal but has a slightly faster ramp up I'm told. What you may be referring to is N200 which is used along with Titanium and SS for temp control.
As far as advantages, it's pretty subjective really. Some people say they find the flavor different, but not in my experience. Surely for the metal to be changing the flavor it must be leaching material into the liquid, and that wouldn't be good.

 

[Zakillah]

Nickel is soft, which can make it annoying to wick. It also has pretty low resistance and with dual coils and higher gauges you´ll pretty fast reach unworkable resistances. Should not be dry burned.

Titanium is springy and thus annoying to work with as well in my experience. Also should not be dry burned.

SS is afaik the most flexible material out there atm. Can run TC and wattage mode. Its pretty easy to work with, almost no spring and not nearly as soft as Ni. I use 304, other alloys may have different properties.

As far as taste goes, I couldn't tell a difference between all those wires. I know some people prefer a material over others because of taste, but that seems to be largely subjective.

I personally use SS exclusively for the simple fact its the easiest material to work with.

 

[whiteowl84]

If your device will do n80 or 316/316l I'd pick from one of those.
Ni200 is just about impossible to use for dual coils unless you use really small wire for lower power vaping.
The reason being is the resistance just isn't there. It would take 30 3mm wraps of 24 awg to make a 0.1ohm coil.
You can't pulse out the hotspots (my builds always seemed to heat evenly though) and you can't dry fire it.
Too soft for rayon.
Can't do contact coils.
Shouldn't be used in power mode.

Titanium I haven't personally used but it's stronger than Ni200 and resists more iirc.

I believe n80 can be used for TC if you have an sx350j or DNA device. I have one on the way and that's what I aim to do.
n80 like kanthal doesn't change much in resistance when heated but it is enough to TC supposedly. I made it work in a 213 but it was hit and miss...I blame the chip.
On the other hand ni200 and Ti change drastically when heated, making the difference in resistance easier to TC.

steam-engine.org is a great tool for theoretical builds and to see if your build is even possible in your Atty. Theres an option for basic coils and a more advanced part that lets you enter any combination of wire and give the TFR & TCR values, and the file to plug the math into Escribe for your DNA devices. It's really cool.

 

[Evilcon666]

Sounds like I'll look into SS. What do you guys know about Temp vs Watts?

Like I'm normally at 60-75ish watts. What would the temp would that be?

Like is there a conversion tool?

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[whiteowl84]

Yes and no. The temperature of the coil depends on the wattage, wire material and size, and coil dimensions.
Plug your build into steam-engine.org and it will tell you how much heat you're working with.
I can't just tell you without knowing your exact build.

 

[KenD]

If your device will do n80 or 316/316l I'd pick from one of those.
Ni200 is just about impossible to use for dual coils unless you use really small wire for lower power vaping.
The reason being is the resistance just isn't there. It would take 30 3mm wraps of 24 awg to make a 0.1ohm coil.
You can't pulse out the hotspots (my builds always seemed to heat evenly though) and you can't dry fire it.
Too soft for rayon.
Can't do contact coils.
Shouldn't be used in power mode.

Titanium I haven't personally used but it's stronger than Ni200 and resists more iirc.

I believe n80 can be used for TC if you have an sx350j or DNA device. I have one on the way and that's what I aim to do.
n80 like kanthal doesn't change much in resistance when heated but it is enough to TC supposedly. I made it work in a 213 but it was hit and miss...I blame the chip.
On the other hand ni200 and Ti change drastically when heated, making the difference in resistance easier to TC.

steam-engine.org is a great tool for theoretical builds and to see if your build is even possible in your Atty. Theres an option for basic coils and a more advanced part that lets you enter any combination of wire and give the TFR & TCR values, and the file to plug the math into Escribe for your DNA devices. It's really cool.

NiChr 80 can't be used for temp control (well, on the Hohmwrecker, but it works different from most other tc mods out there).

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[Evilcon666]

I've got the Alliance V2 running the 4 hole setting, on a Laisimo L3. Still using Kanthal atm because I've got so dang much of it.

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[whiteowl84]

NiChr 80 can't be used for temp control (well, on the Hohmwrecker, but it works different from most other tc mods out there).

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I found out DNA chips won't do it. It tries...lol.

 

[ad356]

im kind of in the same boat. fairly new to making my own coils. so far im using kanthal 24-26 gauge. if i venture into temp control its going to be SS, i think its the safest. people have been cooking on stainless for hundreds of years.

what about the gauge of wire you are using. whats the advantage of going with heavier gauge wire. i know electrically speaking the lower the number the thicker the wire. im guessing the thicker wire will mean less wraps. does it equate to a longer lasting coil?
what do you achieve by changing the gauge of wire? i have been making my own coils with fairly decent results. my coils fire and produce decent vapor.

what about other details like Claptons?

 

[whiteowl84]

Thicker wire = more coil mass and surface area which makes more vapor and lasts longer. Thicker wire needs more wraps to achieve the same load as a smaller wire because power flows more easily through it.

What would you like to know about claptons? I make lots of them...

 

[Evilcon666]

What's the best wire gauge difference you'd recommend to wrap a fused clapton?

I've got some 24 at the time and would like to build my own fused Claptons.



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[whiteowl84]

Bigger wrap makes for a longer ramp up but seems to really hold the juice. Smaller wrap wicks faster and shorter ramp up...the coils actually hold quite a bit of juice.
To start off with, I'd try 32, 34 and 36. You'll want 250' at a minimum especially in the higher gauges. 100' of core wire will last a while.
It gets more difficult the higher you go. Not only is it more fragile but it takes longer as the drill needs more rotations to cover the same area.

If you have any questions, I'd recommend looking here:
Post pictures of your working wick and coil setup

There's alot of really helpful people and info there.

Edit: The first/top picture I posted is fused 24/36.
The second/bottom is 22/32.
36 is pretty easy once you get the hang of it.

 

[Evilcon666]

I'm gonna feel so stupid.... but apparently this is the stuff I've been working with.... is this stainless steel...or kanthal... I just realized that it doesn't say kanthal lol...

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[whiteowl84]

316l is stainless. Good for TC and low ohm builds. It has a very low resistance so you probably won't be able to do a fused clapton with it. Use steam-engine.org to calculate your builds before you do them at first. If you're on a regulated device, it just won't fire it. If you're on a mech, you might make a bomb.
When you buy your wrap wire, go through coilsociety, Temco, or lightning vapes.
When I started learning I bought the same cheap wire you have and it was almost impossible.
It needs to be wrapped on the spool properly to clapton...trust me, you'll be furious when you get halfway done and the wire snags in the spool and ruins your work.

 

[Evilcon666]

Could I use it just for say a simple twisted build? I've got a laisomia L3

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[whiteowl84]

Use steam-engine.org to find out. I have no idea what you're building on or what you're firing with. Twisted coils usually have 50% more resistance than a parallel build because as you twist it, you're getting more length into the coil. More twists means more resistance.


According to steam-engine.org to do a dual fused clapton with 24 awg 316l you'd need coils over an inch long to be just over 0.1 ohm. I usually aim for 0.15 because before you fire out the hotspots, it's really low and I've made coils before that were just in my range but I couldn't fire them to get them to 0.1 ohm.

If you're building a single coil, the fused 24 would probably work if you have a good sized atomizer.

 

[Evilcon666]

I've never had much luck with spooling my own Claptons. I think I'm gonna try a dual twisted build next time.. but sorry for the noob and dumb quesiton.. but where exactly does it say what temperate it runs?

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[whiteowl84]

The coils?
That's dependant on power, wraps and twist pitch. You'll have to punch it in here:

Coil wrapping

If I can clapton, any one can. Get a quality spool of 32 or 34 awg n80, A1 or 316l. Hold the spool horizontally and stay about 5 or more inches away from the core. This way if you aren't going fast enough, you have time to speed up before it overlaps.
n80 and 316l turn pretty colors. They're all pretty easy at these gauges.


For the twisted build, twist the wire with a drill and get it as tight as you can if you're doing a dual coil. That way you're using more wire so you have more resistance, surface area and coil mass. Keep it tight while the drill is going.

 

[Evilcon666]

I've twisted before I usually cut two about a foot long lengths. Twist one end of the wire together and put it into the drill tighten down the chuck and just spin it until it's tight and breaks off on one end.

I was referring to the chart lol.. call me an idiot but when I tired to enter it I got lost at these parts..

Maybe I'm entering my info in wrong?

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