Noob vaper from FL

[Treywingo]

Hey all, I'm pretty new to the vaping sceen. I started a year ago with a FIN electronic cig from wal-mart ( I had no clue what was out there, so don't judge ). Threw it away a month ago when I got my Vamo v5. started with an EVOD2 tank but today I upgraded to the Nautilus Aspire 5ml tank. What a difference! I am now completely sold on vaping the right way. I know there are way better units than the v5, but I had to get something at entry level cost. Any advice on upgrades? What would be a better unit to get later on?

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF! My 1st set-up was 1 Your Online Electronic Cigarette Store. 5 http://altsmoke.com/aw-18650-protec....com/eh-imr-18650-30amp-1600mah-flat-top.html. 5 (now up to 10) 5mL PBC Tanks. 20 Smok Tech Replacement Bottom Coils. 10 bottles of $3.87 Hangsen E-liquid for Electronic Cigarettes (30ml) - Ruyan 4 flavor / 24mg/ml nicotine at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping. And 1 TrustFire TR-001 Lithium Ion Battery Charger, Black. Yes the battery charger kinda bad but when I get some money I will get a better one, this is at least keeping me vaping at the moment. I still use this set-up today.

 

[nlaq]

Nautilus is a great tank! It's what I was using before I started using a Kayfun. At that time I was using the MVP 2, but that only went up to 11 watts.

For something better than what you have as far as APVs go, I'd be looking at the $90 and up price range for an upgrade. Maybe look at the Vaper Shark? Though, I just upgraded to a 50 watt IPV 2. Your setup isn't bad at all, so maybe wait until you can get a good 50 watt box? I believe there are more coming out soon as well.

As far as tanks go: the only other one that I liked as much as the Nautilus was Kanger's Giant. Though if you want to go the rebuildable route, I wouldn't have too much suggestions as I'm just getting into that stuff myself. Correct me if I'm wrong anyone, but I'd imagine the Vamo v5 would fire all the way down to .4 Ohms. I had a .4 build on my MVP at one point.

 

[Treywingo]

I guess for the time being I love the set up I have. I found the sweet spot at 8.5 watts ( haven't figured out the vaping difference between watts and volts?!, I was a grunt in the Army, not a techie ) and I'm getting great flavor and great clouds. i still don't understand the 50 watt boxes? Who vapes at 50 watts?! I know Vamo has a 30 watt mod, but will I really ever need 30 watts? I'm still wrapping my brain around all this so excuse my noobness.

 

[nlaq]

I guess for the time being I love the set up I have. I found the sweet spot at 8.5 watts ( haven't figured out the vaping difference between watts and volts?!, I was a grunt in the Army, not a techie ) and I'm getting great flavor and great clouds. i still don't understand the 50 watt boxes? Who vapes at 50 watts?! I know Vamo has a 30 watt mod, but will I really ever need 30 watts? I'm still wrapping my brain around all this so excuse my noobness.

Watts vs Volts is very simple:

Think of watts like the power (which is converted into heat via the atty) that is going to be passing though the coils. In reality, with a regulated mod, this number is the most important. More watts, hotter it gets. However, things aren't that simple: you have this intermediate number (volts) that has to be drawn though the battery into the atty. The watts is a function between volts and resistance (measured in ohms). The higher the resistance of your atty, the more volts need to be pushed into it to get the wattage you want.

So, let's say you want to vape at 20 watts, and you have a 2.0 ohm atty. Your mod has to do some math to figure out how much voltage to draw from the battery into your atty to achieve the wattage you want. If you instead have a 1.0 ohm atty, your mod would draw less voltage to get that same 20 watts. Have a 2.5 ohm atty? Your mod would have to draw more.

So your mod is measuring the resistance of your atty and figuring out the volts to get the wattage that you want. I don't know the math off the top of my head, but that's the basic principle.

If your mod supports vaping on watts, there is no reason to directly control volts. Just figure out what wattage your juice is happy at, and set your mod to that - then let it figure out how many volts to draw.

EDIT:

When I used my MVP 2 I was pretty happy at 11 watts. For a few weeks. Then I got a Hanna Modz (DNA 30 chip - it goes up to 30 watts), and I was pretty happy at 20 though 26 watts. Now I have my IPV 2, and though I still vape around the mid 20's, being able to get a hotter hit off of it (30 - 34) is actually nice, and I occasionally set it up there.

Do you *neeeeeeeed* more than 15 watts? Probably not on a tank. In fact, those attys are such high resistance, that you may not want to go that high (I'm unsure of their safe capacity; someone with more knowledge than me should answer that). When you get to rebuildables though, 25 though 35 is a very nice range.

And one day, when I have a 100 watt box for some reason, I bet I'll be happy at ~ 80 watts

 

[daleron]

Welcome Trey

 

[Treywingo]

I did a lot of looking on craigslist last night and that someone close by is selling an itaste MVP. Would this be a good buy at $35 for a back up in case my v5 craps out?

 

[Treywingo]

Watts vs Volts is very simple:

Think of watts like the power (which is converted into heat via the atty) that is going to be passing though the coils. In reality, with a regulated mod, this number is the most important. More watts, hotter it gets. However, things aren't that simple: you have this intermediate number (volts) that has to be drawn though the battery into the atty. The watts is a function between volts and resistance (measured in ohms). The higher the resistance of your atty, the more volts need to be pushed into it to get the wattage you want.

So, let's say you want to vape at 20 watts, and you have a 2.0 ohm atty. Your mod has to do some math to figure out how much voltage to draw from the battery into your atty to achieve the wattage you want. If you instead have a 1.0 ohm atty, your mod would draw less voltage to get that same 20 watts. Have a 2.5 ohm atty? Your mod would have to draw more.

So your mod is measuring the resistance of your atty and figuring out the volts to get the wattage that you want. I don't know the math off the top of my head, but that's the basic principle.

If your mod supports vaping on watts, there is no reason to directly control volts. Just figure out what wattage your juice is happy at, and set your mod to that - then let it figure out how many volts to draw.

EDIT:

When I used my MVP 2 I was pretty happy at 11 watts. For a few weeks. Then I got a Hanna Modz (DNA 30 chip - it goes up to 30 watts), and I was pretty happy at 20 though 26 watts. Now I have my IPV 2, and though I still vape around the mid 20's, being able to get a hotter hit off of it (30 - 34) is actually nice, and I occasionally set it up there.

Do you *neeeeeeeed* more than 15 watts? Probably not on a tank. In fact, those attys are such high resistance, that you may not want to go that high (I'm unsure of their safe capacity; someone with more knowledge than me should answer that). When you get to rebuildables though, 25 though 35 is a very nice range.

And one day, when I have a 100 watt box for some reason, I bet I'll be happy at ~ 80 watts

This actually makes sense. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me. While on craigslist I found a bunch of "rebuildables" like a Hades and some other high end brands around Orlando. My wife and I are having to go over there soon anyway and I'm thinking about getting one just to see what they are all about. My friend owns the local vape shop and he would give me tutorial on how to work it.

 

[Roscoe01]

I wouldnt buy a used mvp for $35. U have no idea how many charge cycles have been put on it and if I remember correctly someone on here mentioned a place u can buy them new for $40.

 

[eratikmind]

Welcome to the ECF community, Trey.

 

[williamclarkonet]

Innokin iTaste VTRhttp://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...AG2OKDZTyDdTZ5LJg&sig2=xIezz3wNQbk5ZQ2DPa3eTA or the Sigelei 30W

would be a good upgrade. You got the best tank already

 

[elenamylove]

I wouldnt buy a used mvp for $35. U have no idea how many charge cycles have been put on it and if I remember correctly someone on here mentioned a place u can buy them new for $40.

That would be 101vapes - I get most if not all my stuff from them. Super fast shipping and great pricing!

 

[HoopDancer]

Welcome! My first vape was on a Vuse e-cig. YUCK! I'm still pretty noob and I'm currently using an EVOD battery with a PTM3. I'd like to try some more advanced products, but I am so lost! It sure is fun to learn about though

 

[Roscoe01]

That would be 101vapes - I get most if not all my stuff from them. Super fast shipping and great pricing!

Thx. I couldn't remember who it was but am glad to see support for a good domestic vendor. I hate how much stuff getting ordered via slow boat from China.