Ohm testers
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No way to really know. Lots of variation when using cheap ohm readers and variation in regulated mods circuit boards. That's one reason why headroom is important when considering how low you should build when using a mech mod.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A battery (like the Samsung 25r), that would be 10A. This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a 0.4Ω build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, a 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
With a 30A battery (like the LG HB6), 0.28Ω is the lowest I would build.
I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 20A battery (like the Samsung 25r), that would be 10A. This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a 0.4Ω build is as low as I would want to use.
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, a 20A battery may only be a 10A battery.
With a 30A battery (like the LG HB6), 0.28Ω is the lowest I would build.
This^^^^^^ You have no way of knowing without further testing, on a meter with KNOWN accuracy, which is correct, or how far off either one is.
The mod is close enough. R E L A X.
I have an MM200 which is a piece of junk and it is usually very close to my mod readouts.
each connection in a circuit can increase the ohms overall... also depends on how much pressure is applied to the contact point too... when I test my builds on my meter and the atty is tightened up just enuf to make contact, I get 1 reading, tighten it up some more and the reading drops lower, tighten it up too much and the readings are all over the place....
ohhh and BTW always use the lowest reading...
No way to know. You're only talking about a difference of .03 ohms. That's way smaller than itty bitty, as my 11 year old would say. Getting an ohmmeter that's capable of that kind of discrimination costs hundreds of dollars, and about as much again to have it certified calibrated by a meter shop.
This logic is somewhat backwards.
As the electrolyte crystalizes, the potential for reaction violence lessens.
The crystalline structure is for all intents and purposes inert. THAT'S why we lose mah.
The uninhibited flow of electrons depends on this reactivity.
So while failure is more likely, potential for danger is lessened.
Tapatyped
I have the meter that came with my Coil Master and it's always showing lower than my mods. I use my DNA mods for my final reading and feel it's more accurate.
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From .19 to .16 ohms may seem like an insignificant difference it is a 4 amp difference in draw on a fully charged battery.
yes, of course. I wasn't trying to suggest it wasn't. Deep subohm is dangerous and no joke. Rather, I meant to suggest it's not possible to know exactly in the absence of some specialized and expensive equipment.
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