OHM vs. WATTS

[nakillo]

When I first start vaping with my Kanger Protank 3 mini, T3S, Innokin 30S, etc.., I used 1.8-2.1ohm coils and a Vision Spinner 2, which I always set up around 2 Volts more than the rated coild ohms.

If coil was 1.8ohm I set up 3.8Volts in my battery. If coil was 2.1, I set up 4.1Volts in the battery

After I began with the rta/RDAs, and this law doesnt apply anymore, I can vape a 0.7ohm coil at 35W (5.1volts) with no problem.

Why is that????

is due to the high air flow of the RTAs??

Thanks

 

[IMFire3605]

To a point yes, the RTA has better airflow so you are able to keep the coil and vapor a lot cooler compared to the restricted airflow of the clearomizers you are used to. Lower you go in resistance (ohms) more airflow is a plus as how potentially hot the lower resistance creates when on an unregulated mech mod for instance where the only control of output you have is at the coil itself. On a regulated mod you have control of the voltage, wattage, or temperature at the coil by setting a maximum voltage (3.4 instead of 4.2 on VV unit), wattage (25watts instead of 50watts on VW units), or for a Temp Control Unit (480 degrees Farenheit on a TC unit) where an unregulated mech just gives you what is left in the battery charge.

 

[Baditude]

Previously, you were simply using the "Ohm's plus Two formula". A simple guideline to assist new vapers how to find a starting power setting. Keyword: guideline. There are no absolutes; nothing is written in stone.

Another simple formula is to simply begin with a lowest power setting, and gradually increase the power in increments until a burned taste is detected, and then back down a little. Again, this is a guideline, not a rule of thumb.

A lot of elements come into play when searching for the "right" power setting. State o' Flux once said it best:

Coils, Wicks, and Vapor Production:
Vapor production comes from a combination of net coil surface area, wicking and juice type, air flow... and the wattage necessary to heat that net coil surface area. If you're lacking in any of those areas, you'll come up short.

Just a few basic points, for your consideration... some IMO, some incontrovertible fact.

• The gauge of wire and overall length of that wire is what determines resistance. Coil count is irrelevant.

• Thicker gauge wire, for a given net resistance, where the finished coil(s) physically fits in the atomizer, provides the greatest surface area.

• Thicker wire, for a given net resistance, runs cooler than thinner wire, for a fixed wattage value.

• For a given net resistance, thicker wire requires more wattage to obtain the same heat flux (coil radiant heat) as thinner wire. Thinner wire, although it reduces surface area, can be used to raise heat flux where adjustable wattage (mech mod) is not an option.

• Higher wattage, for a given net resistance, produces more heat, and requires both better air flow and optimized wicking.

 

[nakillo]

To a point yes, the RTA has better airflow so you are able to keep the coil and vapor a lot cooler compared to the restricted airflow of the clearomizers you are used to. Lower you go in resistance (ohms) more airflow is a plus as how potentially hot the lower resistance creates when on an unregulated mech mod for instance where the only control of output you have is at the coil itself. On a regulated mod you have control of the voltage, wattage, or temperature at the coil by setting a maximum voltage (3.4 instead of 4.2 on VV unit), wattage (25watts instead of 50watts on VW units), or for a Temp Control Unit (480 degrees Farenheit on a TC unit) where an unregulated mech just gives you what is left in the battery charge.

Yes, what you say is clear, but still I dont know why in the RTAs I can go much higher in Watts with a same resistance than in a normal clearomizer. If I go with my Protank 3 mini to 20 Watt in a 1.8ohm coil, Im sure I will burn it, but if I go 20W in my Lemo2 with a 1.8ohm coil, is just fine

 

[nakillo]

Previously, you were simply using the "Ohm's plus Two formula". A simple guideline to assist new vapers how to find a starting power setting. Keyword: guideline. There are no absolutes; nothing is written in stone.

Another simple formula is to simply begin with a lowest power setting, and gradually increase the power in increments until a burned taste is detected, and then back down a little. Again, this is a guideline, not a rule of thumb.

A lot of elements come into play when searching for the "right" power setting. State o' Flux once said it best:

Coils, Wicks, and Vapor Production:
Vapor production comes from a combination of net coil surface area, wicking and juice type, air flow... and the wattage necessary to heat that net coil surface area. If you're lacking in any of those areas, you'll come up short.

Just a few basic points, for your consideration... some IMO, some incontrovertible fact.

• The gauge of wire and overall length of that wire is what determines resistance. Coil count is irrelevant.

• Thicker gauge wire, for a given net resistance, where the finished coil(s) physically fits in the atomizer, provides the greatest surface area.

• Thicker wire, for a given net resistance, runs cooler than thinner wire, for a fixed wattage value.

• For a given net resistance, thicker wire requires more wattage to obtain the same heat flux (coil radiant heat) as thinner wire. Thinner wire, although it reduces surface area, can be used to raise heat flux where adjustable wattage (mech mod) is not an option.

• Higher wattage, for a given net resistance, produces more heat, and requires both better air flow and optimized wicking.

Thanks for the comment, there are some points really valuable in there!! Usually the protanks coils are done in 34 gauge kanthal, which obviously I dont use in any of my RTA (impossible to handle it ) so maybe thats the reason we can go higher in watts in RTAs than clearomizers, with the same rated resistance

 

[Baditude]

A knowledgeable and experienced coil builder can build a super sub-ohm coil and fire it with up to 80 watts of power, and it will be as flavorful, smooth, and cool as a standard ohm coil with just 10 watts of power, taking in consideration that the other elements of producing vapor are right.

 

[Alex Bunning]

I am using a Variable wattage, it's usually set around 8 watts. If i am using a variable voltage , I typically enjoy 1.5 OHM dual coil around 3.9 Volts, A 2.0 Ohm coil around 4.2 volts

 

[Mad Scientist]

When I first start vaping with my Kanger Protank 3 mini, T3S, Innokin 30S, etc.., I used 1.8-2.1ohm coils and a Vision Spinner 2, which I always set up around 2 Volts more than the rated coild ohms.

If coil was 1.8ohm I set up 3.8Volts in my battery. If coil was 2.1, I set up 4.1Volts in the battery

After I began with the RTA/RDAs, and this law doesnt apply anymore, I can vape a 0.7ohm coil at 35W (5.1volts) with no problem.

Why is that????

is due to the high air flow of the RTAs??

Thanks

I think it's because of larger diameter coil, larger diameter wick and improved wicking to feed more juice than the old tiny coil heads in addition to improved airflow.

 

[Bunnykiller]

Yes, what you say is clear, but still I dont know why in the RTAs I can go much higher in Watts with a same resistance than in a normal clearomizer. If I go with my Protank 3 mini to 20 Watt in a 1.8ohm coil, Im sure I will burn it, but if I go 20W in my Lemo2 with a 1.8ohm coil, is just fine

because the wire is thicker in RDA's try building your RDA with 32 ga wire and see what happens

 

[Bunnykiller]

here is a good example of ohms and watts...
in the picture are 2 resistors both have the same ohms ( 63)
but they are rated for different watts, the tiny one in front ( look hard) is a 1/8W resistor
the big one is a 250W resistor

 

[Bunnykiller]

so in effect, thin wired coils can only handle low watts, while thick wired coils can handle hi watts even tho the resistance is the same

 

[nakillo]

A knowledgeable and experienced coil builder can build a super sub-ohm coil and fire it with up to 80 watts of power, and it will be as flavorful, smooth, and cool as a standard ohm coil with just 10 watts of power, taking in consideration that the other elements of producing vapor are right.

Well, Im still far away from that point anyway I got your point

 

[nakillo]

I think it's because of larger diameter coil, larger diameter wick and improved wicking to feed more juice than the old tiny coil heads in addition to improved airflow.

thats a good explanation too

 

[nakillo]

because the wire is thicker in RDA's try building your RDA with 32 ga wire and see what happens

I dont have 32gauge kanthal, but I do have 30 and I build with it double coils (as per protank 3 mini) 3mm diameter, 12 wraps (which is around 1.8ohm in total) and they can go much higher in Watts than any standard kanger dual coil for the protanks

 

[nakillo]

so in effect, thin wired coils can only handle low watts, while thick wired coils can handle hi watts even tho the resistance is the same

Thanks for the answer but that's too technical for me

 

[Baditude]

so in effect, thin wired coils can only handle low watts, while thick wired coils can handle hi watts even tho the resistance is the same

Thanks for the answer but that's too technical for me

Ohm's Law Explained for Vapers

 

[nakillo]

Ohm's Law Explained for Vapers

Amazing post!!! really thanks to share it

cheers