Ohms changing

[Clark Kent]

I would .... to know why it is that on some of my builds that the ohms will not stay the same. take when I build it it reads 1.7 on the back box and if i tighten it a little it jumps to 3.12, I am currently building a Tridend clone that has a loose center post and I cant seem to tighten it. but even on protank rebuilds the same problem with the ohms jumping up or down. I also tried it on my MVP and it does the same. I think I am getting good even wraps. If some one could help me out it would be appreciated. I read somewhere in hear for the trident fix that you could use copper wire to tighten the post. many times I put it on the MVP it reads non and i have to pull the cap off and push the center pin down. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Ryedan]

I believe you have two issues happening here. Let's try taking them one at a time.

I would .... to know why it is that on some of my builds that the ohms will not stay the same. take when I build it it reads 1.7 on the back box and if i tighten it a little it jumps to 3.12,

~snip~

but even on protank rebuilds the same problem with the ohms jumping up or down. I also tried it on my MVP and it does the same. I think I am getting good even wraps.

For resistance to read accurately, you need clean contact surfaces. Clean the black box contacts, the MVP contacts and the Protank contacts with Q-tips (or anything you can get in there with) and alcohol. In five minutes the alcohol will evaporate. I'm hoping this will fix the issue for the Protank.

I am currently building a Tridend clone that has a loose center post and I cant seem to tighten it.

~snip~

I read somewhere in hear for the trident fix that you could use copper wire to tighten the post. many times I put it on the MVP it reads non and i have to pull the cap off and push the center pin down. Thanks in advance for any help.

Not sure if all Trident clones are like this, but my 510 positive pin is a copper screw. Here's a picture of it screwed out a ways:

When you take it all the way out you'll see this in the connector:

The threads are in the center post, the one that is moving in your Trident. All you have to do to stop the post from moving is tighten the screw. Don't over-tighten it or you'll strip the screw threads, copper is soft.

The problem with mine was then the screw head went too far down and didn't make contact with my mod's 510 pin. I had some copper wire handy that was the right size so I made a washer out of it and placed it under the head of the screw around the screw. I tightened the screw, not too tight and it shimmed up the head and also allowed me to stabilize the center post.

You can use anything for a shim that is the right size and that you can form into a washer shape. Even cotton or paper will work, it will just will be a bit harder to get the right thickness.

Good luck with it!