INTRO:
Well i just deleted my post i just wrote because i realized it was soo convoluted it would bother even me LOL. I haven't posted in a while so i kinda went off on too many tangents as if i was having a conversation with old friends so yeah now here is the post guys.
WARNING ITS STILL LONG SORRY
(I just got stitches and well I just type fixing it is too much effort = pain for me right now future posts will be more info less fluff)
START:
equipment: one vamo in 18350 configuration with a 18350 AW IMR battery
Well this particular vamo had had problems with the fire button for some time now so i dont use the device except for being my ohm checker (my multi-meter is wonky, i should have spent more than 8 bucks on one but i figured it should work if it dies early so be it although its not dead it just is broken lol) Now i need to buy a new multi-meter and i might as well get one of those black box ohm checkers as it also looks nice for a building base too.
Getting back to the issue this is what happened, I placed my built rba on the vamo turned it on and checked the ohms several times (making sure it was steady and had not sign of a short etc) I was done i took off the rba and DID NOT POWER DOWN the vamo and set it on my couch (where i was sitting) while fiddling with the rba the Vamo rolled and rested against my leg THE WHOLE UNIT WAS WARM (at the time i was thinking 1k mph) so i just quickly opened it since it had not (AFAIK) vented so i took it out and immediately put it outside in a flower pot. The battery smelled bad but looked intact the red wrapper did not melt.
Checking out the vamo. Well i quickly decided i didnt trust the vamo anymore and hoped the chip was OK. So i disassembled it (if you want to know how i did it ask ill add it but i don't think its needed now). I wish i cut the black and white wire leads longer but that doesnt matter i may solder new wires completely before using the chip again. First thing i found is why the fire button went wonky, the metal piece that keeps the button assembly together had somehow became loose and would move around which was the reason for the button issue so if the chip works well still its an EASY fix or i can replace the button the only problem is the vamo board is sandwiched which makes fixing/moding it difficult as all the rear solder points i want to remove i may not be able to in the traditional way.
In all after the vamo inspection i noticed first of the bat it smelled funny (hoping it was not burning the chip itself) i think it was the battery (IDK I just hope the chip is good.) Next i noticed the once golden spring was squashed (no longer a spring but a coil) and the middle coils looked torched no longer golden/copperish but slightly blued. So IDK but i believe it was a hot spring issue? I really hope the chip is OK still (mainly just because i want to make a regulated mod but if its even a little but difficult or damaged in any way i will wait and when i decide i want to make a mod ill buy a good chip like a DNA possibly only after i see or hear of modders using that Chinese board idk the name yet (which says it can support 100w, im not going to make a monstrosity of a mod to fit a battery that is safe just in case it gets set to high and used on accident I don't really want a chip over 30 anyway) getting off subject.
In all this was an odd experience just sharing it with you all. Later I will start a post to get some help with possibly building a vamo chip mod. So the next thread i create will be a day by day pics etc of my first mod with the vamo chip (that is if the chip still works) i need to know how to wire it up safely to test the board i believe the black wire is the negative conn for the battery and the bottom of the chip with the nib thing is the pos so i believe that's how to power the device and the white wire will become hot when fired?? idk the best way to do this though i will goggle it but idk what ill find. i would like to use the safest battery i can for this and i am thinking of getting a battery holder from the shack one with a switch or ill wire one in, to then simply use alligator clips on it so i can use it in the future for any chip powering just what battery/s i should use? would basic alkaline work triple or quad idk basically.
With all the extra info that i posted i am sorry in all I am stopping now if you have any ideas on what happened? was it my fault? if so what did i do? and how to begin testing the vamo chip? Is there a post burred here that says about modding with the vamo chip? Also i believe it is version 2 how can i tell and are their any specific caveats about the vr2 i should know. I am hoping this chip works so i can have something to start modding with then ill build on my design and make something better with a chip i need to purchase (most likely a DNA IDK if I'm going to trust a new Chinese chip made for super sub-ohm at high wattage, i get it though I haven't learned micro coils so i do use sub ohm builds in my genni on a mech but the lowest i go is .7 beyond that and even at that level batteries may not jive at least now there batteries that are safe and have more than 1000 MaH but wanna keep it compact no big nasty for me
THANKS And any (non Troll) Reply will be appreciated
Thank you you just got a gold * star for reading the entire post.
Well i just deleted my post i just wrote because i realized it was soo convoluted it would bother even me LOL. I haven't posted in a while so i kinda went off on too many tangents as if i was having a conversation with old friends so yeah now here is the post guys.
WARNING ITS STILL LONG SORRY
(I just got stitches and well I just type fixing it is too much effort = pain for me right now future posts will be more info less fluff)
START:
equipment: one vamo in 18350 configuration with a 18350 AW IMR battery
Well this particular vamo had had problems with the fire button for some time now so i dont use the device except for being my ohm checker (my multi-meter is wonky, i should have spent more than 8 bucks on one but i figured it should work if it dies early so be it although its not dead it just is broken lol) Now i need to buy a new multi-meter and i might as well get one of those black box ohm checkers as it also looks nice for a building base too.
Getting back to the issue this is what happened, I placed my built rba on the vamo turned it on and checked the ohms several times (making sure it was steady and had not sign of a short etc) I was done i took off the rba and DID NOT POWER DOWN the vamo and set it on my couch (where i was sitting) while fiddling with the rba the Vamo rolled and rested against my leg THE WHOLE UNIT WAS WARM (at the time i was thinking 1k mph) so i just quickly opened it since it had not (AFAIK) vented so i took it out and immediately put it outside in a flower pot. The battery smelled bad but looked intact the red wrapper did not melt.
Checking out the vamo. Well i quickly decided i didnt trust the vamo anymore and hoped the chip was OK. So i disassembled it (if you want to know how i did it ask ill add it but i don't think its needed now). I wish i cut the black and white wire leads longer but that doesnt matter i may solder new wires completely before using the chip again. First thing i found is why the fire button went wonky, the metal piece that keeps the button assembly together had somehow became loose and would move around which was the reason for the button issue so if the chip works well still its an EASY fix or i can replace the button the only problem is the vamo board is sandwiched which makes fixing/moding it difficult as all the rear solder points i want to remove i may not be able to in the traditional way.
In all after the vamo inspection i noticed first of the bat it smelled funny (hoping it was not burning the chip itself) i think it was the battery (IDK I just hope the chip is good.) Next i noticed the once golden spring was squashed (no longer a spring but a coil) and the middle coils looked torched no longer golden/copperish but slightly blued. So IDK but i believe it was a hot spring issue? I really hope the chip is OK still (mainly just because i want to make a regulated mod but if its even a little but difficult or damaged in any way i will wait and when i decide i want to make a mod ill buy a good chip like a DNA possibly only after i see or hear of modders using that Chinese board idk the name yet (which says it can support 100w, im not going to make a monstrosity of a mod to fit a battery that is safe just in case it gets set to high and used on accident I don't really want a chip over 30 anyway) getting off subject.
In all this was an odd experience just sharing it with you all. Later I will start a post to get some help with possibly building a vamo chip mod. So the next thread i create will be a day by day pics etc of my first mod with the vamo chip (that is if the chip still works) i need to know how to wire it up safely to test the board i believe the black wire is the negative conn for the battery and the bottom of the chip with the nib thing is the pos so i believe that's how to power the device and the white wire will become hot when fired?? idk the best way to do this though i will goggle it but idk what ill find. i would like to use the safest battery i can for this and i am thinking of getting a battery holder from the shack one with a switch or ill wire one in, to then simply use alligator clips on it so i can use it in the future for any chip powering just what battery/s i should use? would basic alkaline work triple or quad idk basically.
With all the extra info that i posted i am sorry in all I am stopping now if you have any ideas on what happened? was it my fault? if so what did i do? and how to begin testing the vamo chip? Is there a post burred here that says about modding with the vamo chip? Also i believe it is version 2 how can i tell and are their any specific caveats about the vr2 i should know. I am hoping this chip works so i can have something to start modding with then ill build on my design and make something better with a chip i need to purchase (most likely a DNA IDK if I'm going to trust a new Chinese chip made for super sub-ohm at high wattage, i get it though I haven't learned micro coils so i do use sub ohm builds in my genni on a mech but the lowest i go is .7 beyond that and even at that level batteries may not jive at least now there batteries that are safe and have more than 1000 MaH but wanna keep it compact no big nasty for me
THANKS And any (non Troll) Reply will be appreciated
Thank you you just got a gold * star for reading the entire post.
