On Temp Control

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Noflers

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I see a ton of threads and posts around the web with people having issues with their TC mods. I want to address some of these things here. This isn't an end all be all guide to TC, more of a post with FAQ's

I've seen, more than once, people having issues with their mod firing TC coils. This can be attributed to a number of things, but usually it's caused by a few common problems. The first is the ohms of the coil are to low. This causes a mod to fall to fire. The average mod out there can only fire a TC coil with a resistance of .08 or higher. (the Sigelei Fuchai, and some others, can fire as low as .05) This is what brings about questions like "My 5 wrap 22g nickel dual coil build doesn't work. Why won't it fire?" Well it's because in order to meet the .05 ohm threshold, the coil would need to have 25 wraps with an inner diameter of 3mm. That would be a huge coil! Also, that doesn't take into account that the coils need to be spaced, not compressed, making the coil even longer.

This brings me to my second point. Compressed vs. spaced coils. TC coils NEED to be spaced, any contact will cause the coil to short and throw off the resistance as well as make the coil heat unevenly.

TC coils CAN last longer than kanthal, but there are a few things needed to ensure this is true. When re-wicking a kanthal coil it's pretty common tip dry fire the coil until it's red hot, then dip the coils in water to clear the gunk. You should NEVER do this with nickel. It's much more effective to brush the gunk of the coils gently. Dry burning nickel can be toxic in extreme situations, and if that's not enough it also weakens the wire causing it to not lady as long.

One of the most alarming questions I see asked are coming from people who are excited that they just picked up their first TC coil heads or they just built their first coil with TC compatible wire. It usually goes something like this, "I just got my TC coils, but I don't see what's so great about them, my mech mod worked way better when I used regular kanthal. What the problem?" This is alarming because firing a TC coil on anything other than a TC mod is unsafe. When TC coils, nickel specifically, is heated beyond a certain point it releases harmful gases that are absolutely unhealthy to inhale. So please, only use your TC coils on a TC mod.

If anyone would like to add anything, or ask any questions, feel free. There is a ton of us here who are always willing to help.
 
Noflers,
I am one of those who recently made the jump to TC however i have had no luck with it as of yet. I jumped into a dual coil straight away thinking that it wouldnt be any harder than building a dual kanthal wire.. I quickly learned otherwise when my build would not fire or it would have a very long ramp up time. So then I tried to do a 9wrap single spaced coil around a 3mm bit at .12 ohms... I did this and still had the same issues. Do you have any suggestions. Because at this point i feel like maybe my mod is defective.
 

edyle

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Noflers,
I am one of those who recently made the jump to TC however i have had no luck with it as of yet. I jumped into a dual coil straight away thinking that it wouldnt be any harder than building a dual kanthal wire.. I quickly learned otherwise when my build would not fire or it would have a very long ramp up time. So then I tried to do a 9wrap single spaced coil around a 3mm bit at .12 ohms... I did this and still had the same issues. Do you have any suggestions. Because at this point i feel like maybe my mod is defective.

You need to say what wire gauge
 

Wingsfan0310

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You have to use Ni200. Nichrome won't work (I'm assuming you are using Ni200, throwing it out there just in case). You didn't mention what mod. You have to put it in TC and select Ni200. Most mods also require you to lock in the resistance of the coil at room temperature. Other problems can be dirty 510 connectors, not having the coil holding screws tightened down enough, and finally some attys just aren't good at TC. You have to use something where the resistance doesn't jump around as that is how the mod calculates temperature, by minute changes in resistance. Hope some of that helps.

Cheers,
Steve
 
You have to use Ni200. Nichrome won't work (I'm assuming you are using Ni200, throwing it out there just in case). You didn't mention what mod. You have to put it in TC and select Ni200. Most mods also require you to lock in the resistance of the coil at room temperature. Other problems can be dirty 510 connectors, not having the coil holding screws tightened down enough, and finally some attys just aren't good at TC. You have to use something where the resistance doesn't jump around as that is how the mod calculates temperature, by minute changes in resistance. Hope some of that helps.

Cheers,
Steve
The Ni200 could possibly be it, I am using a Sigelei Fuchai 200w... I bought Nickel wire but it doesnt specify that it is in fact Ni200 so hopefully the case is that the wire isnt good enough quality in terms of the nickel content. I will give that a shot. I have selected Ni-mode and locked the resistance at rest/room temp. So I'm hoping that my local store will finally have some Ni200 and Titanium wires in stock today so that i can rule this out as the cause. Thanks guys
 

TrueNorthist

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"Spaced" is a relative term. See here for m
Your welcome. One thing I forgot to mention. I have much better luck in TC using spaced coils (I consider it absolutely mandatory with Ni200 since you should not dry burn them). Good luck!

Cheers,
Steve
I guess it makes me a bit of a freak that I have so much better luck with "classic" extremely tightly spaced micro-coils. (Ti wire) I tried and tried and tried to beat the nickle wire into some sort of useful object a year or so ago — rumoured to be loosely comparable to a spaced coil — but failed utterly... So I did what I do best: I gave up trying. Maybe now is the time to mention my various infirmities? Like my bandy legs, plywood teeth and rare foot disorders — to name but a few. Mind you, I should try a build using my hands sometime.
 

Shigura

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Your welcome. One thing I forgot to mention. I have much better luck in TC using spaced coils (I consider it absolutely mandatory with Ni200 since you should not dry burn them). Good luck!

Cheers,
Steve
Would like to include Ti wire as also working best being spaced coils as well.
 
Your welcome. One thing I forgot to mention. I have much better luck in TC using spaced coils (I consider it absolutely mandatory with Ni200 since you should not dry burn them). Good luck!

Cheers,
Steve
Yes, I've only tried spaced coils with Nickel since thats all i saw being built with them..
 

Noflers

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Wow, I guess tapatalk doesn't like me because I've gotten zero notifications for this thread. The reason most people go with nickel is because it's cheaper than titanium and not all mods support stainless. Personally, I like 26g titanium best. People think they get better flavor from certain types of wire, but what it really comes down to is a coil heating up to the point turning our juice into an aerosol. Use what ever you feel comfortable with, and as always, be safe with it.
 

Noflers

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Yes, I've only tried spaced coils with Nickel since thats all i saw being built with them..
Yeah, there isn't really an easy way to get compressed coils with TC because you shouldn't dry burn, but then again it might not be safe to dry burn any metal without a respirator. That's setting aside the fact that the resistance of a compressed TC coil would be extremely low.
 

BigEgo

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The Ni200 could possibly be it, I am using a Sigelei Fuchai 200w... I bought Nickel wire but it doesnt specify that it is in fact Ni200 so hopefully the case is that the wire isnt good enough quality in terms of the nickel content. I will give that a shot. I have selected Ni-mode and locked the resistance at rest/room temp. So I'm hoping that my local store will finally have some Ni200 and Titanium wires in stock today so that i can rule this out as the cause. Thanks guys

Buy this nickel wire. I recommend 28 gauge for its higher resistance. You also want it to be tempered since it's MUCH easier to work with (about the same as kanthal).

EDIT: Just now realized I previously responded in this thread for OP to ditch nickel and go with Ti. However, I think it's probably best for a new user to go with tempered nickel since all TC mods support it and it's the most accurate wire. Learn how to build with nickel, then "graduate" onto Ti and SS.
 

Noflers

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Please show me some science that supports this. TIA.
I'm on my phone all I don't have the specific source, but the easiest would be to look up the OSHA guidelines for nickel. That'll answer your questions and any others that might arise. My belief is that nickel can get hot enough if a hot spot is formed by a short.
 

Woofer

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I'm on my phone all I don't have the specific source, but the easiest would be to look up the OSHA guidelines for nickel. That'll answer your questions and any others that might arise. My belief is that nickel can get hot enough if a hot spot is formed by a short.

I have spent a good deal of time researching Ni online. :w00t:
 
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