I've been experiencing dry burnt hits almost like my wick isn't keeping up with my build I've tried to rebuild it still nothing I heard you can adjust the chimney based like juice control but when I screw on my top cap it just tightens my chimney back down cause the o ring is really snug to the top of the chimney I'm getting frustrated my first few builds were nice but I wasn't getting much vapor now that I try to get more vapor I'm just getting dry burnt hits smh
Orchid Rba HELP PLEASE!
- Thread starter Mike Literus
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i agree with above poster, just a few strands into the wick channels i hear about halfway down is best, but again really thin amounts of wick, had some serious troubles getting mine working on about day 4 of fiddling with it pretty damn close to where i want it but feel like i need just a tad more length to the wick in the juice channels(they're not halfway down) but its a tough one. also for adjusting juice cntrl take the drip tip off and get a pair of tweezers or really thin needle nose pliers and grab the top of the chimney and twist till its at a height that u feel is acceptable
Okay I will try this also how big are you guys building your coil like on a 1/16 drill bit or a 3/32 I tried 24g and 28g the 28 is working better than the 24 I been doing 9 wraps one a 1/16 with koh gen doh it's been keeping up but I'm a chain vaper and after like to hits i just get that burnt taste I'm gonna do what you guys suggested also with try the tweezers method thank you for the help
24 guage around 7/64 bit 8 wraps center post micro .57. With that big of a diameter I dont even tuck any into the juice well, I just simply wick the coils and then cut around the threaded base so wick is even and looks circular from the top down. With that amount of wick I get no gurgle. Even though none is tucked into the juice channels I think theres just the right amount of pressure on them to prevent flooding, but still letting in plenty of juice to avoid that sort of dull or no flavor hits I was experiencing with tucking.
also if u take the drip tip off and use tweezers or needle nose pliers you can grab the end of the chimney(while assembled) and twist it open to the position you want, hopefully the next version of this atty has a few of those little quirks fixed
got it figured out on my end but it was a trip, even replied to my own thread thinking it was someone else who posted 
, these late night shifts are killing me haha, but ya the guy who work at my local b&m sets his up without any wick in the channels and it hits great, ive tried it myself, personally i could never get it to not leak without wicking in the channels, one thing we both agreed on though was that the wicks should be cut very short, my build is 26 gauge kanthal 7-8 wraps 3/32 drill bit dual coil around .45 ohms with a VERY light amount of wick about halfway down the deck channels, hope this thread helps someone figure this beast out, its worth it imo
, these late night shifts are killing me haha, but ya the guy who work at my local b&m sets his up without any wick in the channels and it hits great, ive tried it myself, personally i could never get it to not leak without wicking in the channels, one thing we both agreed on though was that the wicks should be cut very short, my build is 26 gauge kanthal 7-8 wraps 3/32 drill bit dual coil around .45 ohms with a VERY light amount of wick about halfway down the deck channels, hope this thread helps someone figure this beast out, its worth it imogot it figured out on my end but it was a trip, even replied to my own thread thinking it was someone else who posted
28g 10 wraps on a 1/16 cut the wick at a angle so their like a spear head then put then in the channels 3-4 threads down max and it wicks really good no dry burnt hits or anything and no leaking at all except for when you fill it up that to me seems un avoidable I've tried all the tricks but they don't really work now I'm just trying to find a new tank and top fill cap but I'm out of luck on that so far
As far as leaking after filling it up,i have been using a method someone mentioned in another thread and have not lost a drop since.Instead of top filling,unscrew the bottom base,and pull it out slightly,just make sure the chimney stays in the o-ring in the top cap,basically pull it just far enough to where you can see the threads on the base,then you can fill it with a needle tip bottle or a syringe with a blunt tip needle.This method has been working perfectly for me,plus you get more capacity this way,because the top cap being recessed,that gives some extra room that you dont get when top filling.Best part is,you dont get the initial leaks from the air holes this way.
Never would have thought of that awesome thanks for the tip will try that next fill
Yeah,i would never have thought of it either,so i glady pass on that tip whenever i can,like i said not my idea,but glad i seen it.On that note,just make sure you leave the juice level below the threads of the tank,i wasn't paying attention last night,and filled past the threads,which did force some juice into the chimney and out of the air holes,but before that time,i filled it this way probably 5 times and never lost a drop,so just watch it and you'll be good haha.
Can some of you post pics of your build because I just can't seem to grasp what ur saying..... Thanks so much for any help you guys can give me on this...
Can some of you post pics of your build because I just can't seem to grasp what ur saying..... Thanks so much for any help you guys can give me on this...
ill see if my roomate will let me use his phone camera tmrw because i dont have any way to post a pic otherwise, but just about time to refill the orchid so i can show what i got goin on with it atm,
It's actually very simple if u use bigger diameter coils 3/32-7/64. Just wick it like a dripper at first with wicking material coming straight through the coils and having that very slight bow tie look, then simply cut the wicks just short of flush all the way around the base so looking top down u just barely see the threads of the base. Saturate and break in your wick however u normally do, I usuall fire until it dries up 2-3 times, then put the chimney on. I never tuck, loosen chimney, primer puff or anything. With the amount of wick from larger diameter coils pressing against the channels there's no need to tuck and it will wick just like a properly built kayfun. I've used this method with cotton, cellucotton, and kgd and all 3 keep up just fine with.4-.8 builds. Obviously it's almost imperative that you use a centerppost style of build. Good luck to anyone having issues with this atty, once u get the hang of it there's nothing that touches the vape u get from this if your a lung hitter and feel that the kayfuns wide open is still tight, I absolutely love the airflow on this rba. Peace
.78 24g 7/6 wraps single coil and chucks. Have had mine about 3 weeks and the first build was perfect. Took it apart to clean last week and hasn't performed the way it did at first. Figured out it was too much wick in the channel and around it.
Thanks for the above post!
Thanks for the above post!
I had that same problem.First build was absolutely outstanding,after a while i changed out the wicks,and it took me a month before i finally got it back as good as that first one.I just got my v4 the other day,and first build is perfect,i hope this one stays that way haha.
The v4 uses the same base as a v2,but it has a longer chimney,and comes with a full sized kayfun tank,so it has alot more capacity,this one will hold 4ml.I like the look of the original orchid with the frosted tank,so i got a frosted m-tank to put on mine.Here is a picture of a v1(same size as a v2) and the v4 side by side,you can see how much bigger the new one is.
Just click on the picture to zoom it in.
Just click on the picture to zoom it in.
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