Over Heated Samsung 18650 20A/35A LI-ION High Drain Battery

[BlakeMcC1990]

Hi everyone!

Basically this has happened to me twice in 3 weeks now! I've put in a fully charged Samsung battery into my Vicious Ant Phenom Mechanical Mod, using the Aspire Atlantis with their stock coil. And fire it up to take a pull and the bottom section of the mod goes hot. At first I thought it was heat from my hands from holding it, so I took it out to cool down and put it back in and did a test fire, and it got even hotter and the bottom was starting to melt! So I took it out and through it in the garden just to be on the safe side!

This is the first time anything like this has happened to me! I've used Sony VTC 4's throughout my Mod vaping days and never had any battery issues! But they started to show signs of wear and tear so through them away. And obviously can't buy anymore brand new due to them not being manufactured anymore! So I heard these Samsung batteries were the next best if not better! So I gave them a go! I only purchased this battery two days ago and this happened again! The first one I bought lasted a month and I just thought it was just one of them things.

Has this occurred to anyone else using those specific batteries or specific Mech Mod?

Please let let me know!

Blake.

 

[smacksy]

Because the Sony batts worked OK you could've gotten defective Samsung's..
Other than that I would check for shorts with an inline voltmeter without the atty attached...anyway I hope you get it figured out and stay safe..

 

[DaveP]

It sounds to me like you have a short somewhere in the atomizer or in the 510 socket where it screws in. Just for grins try firing it without the atomizer installed and see if the battery gets hot. Better still (and safer), take a resistance reading using an ohm meter with one of the probes touching the center pin and one touching the outer ring of the 510 socket. if you read anything but open the problem is in the socket or down in the mod. To check the circuit with the fire button pressed, set your meter on a voltage range around 10v or higher and see if you read battery voltage there.

If it only happens with the atomizer installed, check the resistance at the male 510 thread at the bottom of the atomizer. If it reads less than the approximate rating of the atomizer coil (they vary up or down by a few tenths of a volt), you have a short inside the atomizer. Remove the atty coil and check it for shorts. Try another coil.

 

[ElevenEleven]

Doesn't Illumn have VTC4s in stock?

 

[BlakeMcC1990]

I've chucked the battery as it's in no safe condition to use again. It was a 20A/35A

But thank you for your advice It's apreciated!

 

[beckdg]

li-ion???

what about INR?

the

INR18650 - 20R

OR

INR18650 - 25R

they shouldn't have problems with what you're describing unless there's a serious issue... or they're counterfeited.

buy from a reputable source. don't trust that a b&m has one.

ETA: 20A/35A means nothing if you're not familiar with the cell and know what to look for. It's EASY to print a label and match wrapping colors.

 

[BlakeMcC1990]

I wouldn't trust them as their most likely either returned stock or even worse fakes.

 

[BlakeMcC1990]

Samsung 2500mAh-25R INR Batteries
Size: 18650 (18mm diameter / 65mm length)
Type: Li-Mn Hybrid INR
Rated Capacity: 2500mAh (High Drain)
Rechargeable: Yes
Style: Flat Top
Maximum Rated Discharging Current: 35A
Storage Voltage: 3.7V
Charging Voltage: 4.2V

 

[beckdg]

Samsung 2500mAh-25R INR Batteries
Size: 18650 (18mm diameter / 65mm length)
Type: Li-Mn Hybrid INR
Rated Capacity: 2500mAh (High Drain)
Rechargeable: Yes
Style: Flat Top
Maximum Rated Discharging Current: 35A
Storage Voltage: 3.7V
Charging Voltage: 4.2V

damn

wonder if the stock is old. (shooting from the hip... maybe unlikely)

have an ohm checker?

 

[ElevenEleven]

35A 25R? Never heard of that.

 

[readeuler]

Indeed, what was the resistance?

I've had a button get hot one time, because everything wasn't sitting flush; I took everything apart and put it back together, no more hot button (I don't use that mod much any more, but it's never been a problem with my direct-to-battery mech).

ETA: I've never seen 25R's labeled with with the 35A. They're supposedly capable of very intense "pluses", but I just stick with the 20A continuous rating. They are very good batteries, from what I've read and experienced (they're all I use).

 

[BlakeMcC1990]

It's reading 0.6Ohms on my Smok Tech reader. It was a new coil Thursday so two days old.

 

[BlakeMcC1990]

It's reading 0.6 on my SmokTech reader. What's done is done s**t happens!

 

[ElevenEleven]

25Rs should handle that without breaking a sweat.

Two things could've happened:
1) There was a short; possibly the atty didn't make a solid connection to the battery.
2) The battery was a fake. Or worn and exhausted.

Edit: I'm not cool when people say ..... happens. There's a reason for it and its our obligation to know why so it can be prevented.

 

[tj99959]

To begin with the 25r is a great battery. As long as it was bought from a trusted source it's unlikely that it caused the problem.

Most likely source of the problem would be the 510 connector (compatibility of topper to mod)

 

[Str8vision]

I only use Samsung 25R's and have had zero problems with them. To ensure I get authentic and not re-wrapped ****fire batteries, I only buy through Illumn and get genuine - 20 amp - Samsung 25R's for $6 ea. Personally, I would be suspicious of any vendor that advertises a battery's pulse rating as being its discharge rate.