Parallel Tied Dual Coil

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HardCoil

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Aug 22, 2015
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I was wondering, I was tweeking with my STM so I was wondering does it make any difference if I drill the wick holes bigger to accommodate bigger diameter coiling? I started making parallel tied dual coils because since I have been doing a lot of reading here, to make bigger clouds u need more airflow, more vg base, bigger contacts of liquid to coils (bigger coils, bigger diameter). So I started experimenting doing screwing them down parallel to the anodes, so it does not disrupt airflow in the middle. like this,

IMG_1002_zpshszcyckr.jpg


So its kind of a hassle to do it. I did this with a 28g Nichrome, 2.00mm diameter, clocks out at 0.35 ohms, having it at 35watts, 3.54v. What do you guys think of this build? For the wick, this is how i do it,

IMG_1003_zps8a4bqokg.jpg


I think I made a mistake for giving it some room because after 10-12 vigorous puffs i can taste the cotton a little, indicating that it is burning. I think I should make if puffier and shorter?
Also, me being a crazy mother....er, experiment experiment and experiment. I tried to make my own OCC lol. Here's how it looks like...

IMG_1001_zps1u2icxbr.jpg


IT REALLY WORKS! 0.89ohms. Tastes great! almost a perfect clone to the 0.5ohm OCC by kangertech. But the problem with mine is, it kept spitting a little. Not a lot but a little. But I dunno, I am just playing around trying to max out my STM. Big clouds, big flavors. I know RDAs are better at cloud chasing but, you know i am just trying to see what happens.

What do you guys think, and what extent had you guys went to get what you want?
 

Alex Sullivan

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Nov 11, 2010
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Phoenix AZ
John,
I am a EE instructor but I don't know yet much about the world of vaping.

With that said, I have never ever seen such a masterpiece of 2 parallel coils!

Would it be safe to assume, builders like yourself know the basic relationships of electronics?

It seems to me that you must.

I am curious on the physical size of those coils. without a reference like a ruler in mm or inches it is kinda' hard, due to relativity, to know how big they are.

Even though the background needle nose pliers do help!

Anyway, again that truly is nice.

Kudos's!:thumb:

Alex
 

Susan~S

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I am a EE instructor but I don't know yet much about the world of vaping.
If you start your own thread and tell us what you are using to vape with and what you would like to learn/know we can give you pointers and links to help you learn more about vaping.
Would it be safe to assume, builders like yourself know the basic relationships of electronics?
When using a regulated devise the most important thing is to make sure your batteries can handle the amp draw of whatever max wattage you will be vaping at.
 

Alex Sullivan

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Nov 11, 2010
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7
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Phoenix AZ
John,

Those coils look like a masterpiece!
I'm new here and don't know much about home-brew vapors.

I have a pretty good idea on how big those coils are, because I can compare them to the size of the needle nose pliers in the background.

you indicated that they are in parallel which of course would reduce the total resistance by 1/2, if the r's are equal..

Rt= the sum of the reciprocals, reciprocated in any parallel resistive circuit. (less of course AC impedance, which we don't have to worry about.

( I was a grad. and post grad EE instructor for 10 year )



Again John,
Very impressive!:2cool:

Alex
 

Alex Sullivan

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Nov 11, 2010
5
7
59
Phoenix AZ
If you start your own thread and tell us what you are using to vape with and what you would like to learn/know we can give you pointers and links to help you learn more about vaping.

When using a regulated devise the most important thing is to make sure your batteries can handle the amp draw of whatever max wattage you will be vaping at.

Very good Susan,
I calculate that the power to be 34.56 watts useing 4.8v and a 1.5 Ohm coil.
That seems a bit to much simply because of the temperature of my Tabac 3mL reservoir with a voltage supply of 4.8v....

But the math does not lie..

When I push down on the LED/Button it will start to blink indicating that it has an internal sensor and/or current limiter circuit. I sure would like to see a schematic of one of these cells/batteries to understand how they actually limit the current!

Also they have a potentiometer to vary the voltage, thereby limiting the current through the fixed resistive coil, that much I it get....



If you start your own thread and tell us what you are using to vape with and what you would like to learn/know we can give you pointers and links to help you learn more about vaping.

Yes Susan, when I get enough points I most certainly will do that!

I have about 4 or so eGo 3 mL tabac T35/MT35BCC clearomizers, and about 10, 1.5 Ohm coils left. :)

I would like to get more vapor as long as I can use the 5 variable batteries I have.

Alex
 

MattyTny

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Oct 8, 2013
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When I tried this the airflow seems much more smoother compared if the coils were over the air hole. Thats why I tried experimenting with this build. But yes you are right. I'll try to make the coils spaced apart much more.

That's true the airflow will feel smoother since the coil or coils are not directly over the airflow. The issue you run into by placing them as you did is that you may get some harsh draws off it. This is because the coils are not over the airflow. When you take a draw the air is only reaching the halves of those two coils, the other halves are heating up, but not getting much airflow and can feel harsh.

What you can do is experiment with different coil diameters and coil placement over the air way. RTAs are very sensitive to coil placement and diameter and it can change the vape. You could try moving the coils closer together or decreasing the diameter, but then you may block the airway with the wicking. You could also try mounting two coils perpendicular to how you have them now, just like the stock build. Doing that will also give you a shorter, more direct wick.

Vertical coils are harder to pull off. That will take practice and a lot of it has to do with the wicking. It's also possible that the spitting will stop after the wick breaks in, you can do some fires while manually blowing on it to break it in.
 
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HardCoil

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Ok guys appreciate the kudos and yes i am still learning and yes you need to always need to calculate and becarefull what ur mods and ur batteries limitations are. So this particular build i used 28g nichrome (atm i have about 10meters of this and i am out of kanthal, will get kanthal when they have 10m stocks again). 2.00mm diameter, clocked out at 0.36ohms. Cant remember the wattage and volts i used. I did this 2-3 days ago i think, and thought i could share this (if its a good idea/build) if its not and needs tweaking the vets will let me know.

So since susan showed me how to "twist", so just a few hours ago i went and do the "twist". Pun intended. So here is what i have done with it!
80C4D384-999A-4FC7-A7B5-BA47E489ABB1_zpskxvbeisq.jpg


I agree with matt, that the draw is a little harsher, but not to the extent that u cant vape at all. Airflow is much better, flavor doubled. But it drinks up ur juice and u need conciderably much more power for this build. I dont recommend this build if u are sooo new to vaping or u dont know the capabilities of ur mod and batteries. Well so, this build i twisted 28g Nichrome and made 7 wraps 2.00mm diameter, any bigger it wont fit. Clocked out at 0.22ohms. The draw backs of this build is it took me 2-3 hours just to do this lol. I had to measure everything correctly so that there is no shortages or the coils not fitting well. First thing to remember is never clip the tails until u could adjust both coils to glow simultaneously. When i was a noobie noob (now less noob) the dual coils i built always glow uneven, one is faster than the other. So this time i dont clip the tails so that i could adjust the faster glowing coil away from the positive post and the slower closer to the positive post. The length is not the same i guess. The wicking is tricky, i arranged the coils in that manner so that u can stuff the cotton in and doesnt abstruct airflow much. I am gonna drill my rba soon, the wick holes and the airholes. Thats my next project. My goal is to max out my STM.
 
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HardCoil

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Aug 22, 2015
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John,
I am a EE instructor but I don't know yet much about the world of vaping.

With that said, I have never ever seen such a masterpiece of 2 parallel coils!

Would it be safe to assume, builders like yourself know the basic relationships of electronics?

It seems to me that you must.

I am curious on the physical size of those coils. without a reference like a ruler in mm or inches it is kinda' hard, due to relativity, to know how big they are.

Even though the background needle nose pliers do help!

Anyway, again that truly is nice.

Kudos's!:thumb:

Alex

Thanks alex and no i am no electrician but i am certified 6gc cswip welder, i do have a small understanding of EE but far from your level of "basic". I learn bit by bit from this site way before i even registered. But i bet u could do better than me at this because my head hurts sometimes calculating all this lol.

My first experience when inwas introduced to vaping because of my cousin, he imports A-Z vaping stuffs into Malaysia and supplies them to anyone who wants to do retail with em. So he told me to stop smoking and try vaping. I did. I thought its just buy this (mod), buy this (tank), buy this (batteries), buy this (e-juice) and there ya go all set! But noooooo, i have to know what OHM is, what watts are, what are volts? Amps? Metal boiling point, kanthal, nichrome, titanium, nickel, subtanks, rdas, rtas, rbas, at first i read rbas as bras.
 
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Susan~S

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So since susan showed me how to "twist", so just a few hours ago i went and do the "twist". Pun intended. So here is what i have done with it!
Nice "twist".:)

Another great tool to bookmark is Steam Engine | Free Vaping Calculators

GrimmGreen does a good job on explaining how to wrap & fiddle with coils. He is using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) but the same basic steps apply.

 
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MattyTny

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That blue is very groovy lol.

The build looks nice man. I went back and see how you left some open space under the coils and it looks like you did the same in the latest picture, great for airflow!

If you're able to machine the deck to your liking and are set on improving that particular build maybe you can makes notches off the original air hole going toward and under the coil. I'm not sure if that will work, but just my thoughts.
 

BigBenFPF

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Sep 15, 2015
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Thanks alex and no i am no electrician but i am certified 6gc cswip welder, i do have a small understanding of EE but far from your level of "basic". I learn bit by bit from this site way before i even registered. But i bet u could do better than me at this because my head hurts sometimes calculating all this lol.

My first experience when inwas introduced to vaping because of my cousin, he imports A-Z vaping stuffs into Malaysia and supplies them to anyone who wants to do retail with em. So he told me to stop smoking and try vaping. I did. I thought its just buy this (mod), buy this (tank), buy this (batteries), buy this (e-juice) and there ya go all set! But noooooo, i have to know what OHM is, what watts are, what are volts? Amps? Metal boiling point, kanthal, nichrome, titanium, nickel, subtanks, rdas, rtas, rbas, at first i read rbas as bras.
u not alone bro. I read rba as rebar.
 
coil.jpg


This is how I coil and wick my friends STM. 6 wraps 26awg kanthal 2mm ID resistance is .25 ish. She can vape it at 50 watts with no dry hits, lots of flavour. The key to wicking the STM is to leave a little air space right at the juice holes to allow juice into the RTA section. If the cotton is tight you will get dry hits. If you leave too much space you will flood the coil. It takes a little experimenting to get it right but it can be done.
 

BigBenFPF

Full Member
Sep 15, 2015
43
19
West side
View attachment 490101

This is how I coil and wick my friends STM. 6 wraps 26awg kanthal 2mm ID resistance is .25 ish. She can vape it at 50 watts with no dry hits, lots of flavour. The key to wicking the STM is to leave a little air space right at the juice holes to allow juice into the RTA section. If the cotton is tight you will get dry hits. If you leave too much space you will flood the coil. It takes a little experimenting to get it right but it can be done.
This Looks damn awesome. any link as to where I could learn how to do this?
 

HardCoil

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Aug 22, 2015
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View attachment 490101

This is how I coil and wick my friends STM. 6 wraps 26awg kanthal 2mm ID resistance is .25 ish. She can vape it at 50 watts with no dry hits, lots of flavour. The key to wicking the STM is to leave a little air space right at the juice holes to allow juice into the RTA section. If the cotton is tight you will get dry hits. If you leave too much space you will flood the coil. It takes a little experimenting to get it right but it can be done.

I tried this setup before, the problem with this build is that airflow is restricted, Hard DRAW is REAL! LoL. This setup will be nice for the first 20-30 puffs or so but then i keep getting dry hits for some reason even after i wicked the cotton to leave room for juice to wet the cotton. IMO the RBA's wick whole is not big enough to feed juice to the coils fast enough before you start puffin again. Also with builds like this the coils gets hot faster so even after u let go the fire button the juice still cooks a little. But the clouds and flavor from this build is great! But i still couldnt solve the dry hitting. So i moved on a different way of building.
 
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