Petri mod clone
- Thread starter Ben85
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Well so far, not the best start. I'm getting really bad hot button issues, despite everything in the switch being clean.
Going to polish the inside of the switch to see if that helps and order a loaded Spring. It's a shame because the mod is quite a good clone.
Going to polish the inside of the switch to see if that helps and order a loaded Spring. It's a shame because the mod is quite a good clone.
Ok, I have thoroughly cleaned and polished and it hits well, but only when I press and slightly rotate the contact at the same time.
Any thoughts? I have never had a hot button issue like it. The Spring is so thin that I think my coil is of a thicker gauge. Think a loaded Spring will help?
Any thoughts? I have never had a hot button issue like it. The Spring is so thin that I think my coil is of a thicker gauge. Think a loaded Spring will help?
Flimsy springs of bad material can do this, and the tolerances can be bad so you have to rely on the spring more as a work-around. The spring is in parallel to other switch-parts, so you cannot calculate it like that... If everything is 100% squeaky clean then try other spring, either a DIY or bought one your call. A loaded spring likely would better the situation, as it's a silver plated berylium copper good quality spring. If you make one yourself, or purchase another, then thicker and tighter is best. I don't know if there's room, as i've seen the mod, but honestly can't remember, then you can also strip some RG6 coax and use 18g solid copper DIY spring. Or 316L or 304 SS wire...
If you haven't read, then very good post here: "Cleaning" a Mechanical Mod and Hot Button Issues.
Also, Ninja and others often helped me with this exact issue previously too
If you haven't read, then very good post here: "Cleaning" a Mechanical Mod and Hot Button Issues.
Also, Ninja and others often helped me with this exact issue previously too
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Also, if you have to wiggle, then I think the tolerances are bad in the friction bore of switch contacting area, so a better spring isn't a fix but a workaround imho Better than nothing of course... Also check if negative contact point is fully level and no high-spots, or sanding is required... And check battery for arc-pitts... There can also be bad tolerances in threads and micro-arcing I belive it's called. If you run low, then the shear abrubtly on/off of high-amps can on many switches really arc and also heat the button up(sparks), but you can see that afterwards by added pitting on negative contact... The easiest first route when everything is clean, is to just check if the spring is the culprit...
Better than nothing of course... Also check if negative contact point is fully level and no high-spots, or sanding is required... And check battery for arc-pitts... There can also be bad tolerances in threads and micro-arcing I belive it's called. If you run low, then the shear abrubtly on/off of high-amps can on many switches really arc and also heat the button up(sparks), but you can see that afterwards by added pitting on negative contact... The easiest first route when everything is clean, is to just check if the spring is the culprit...
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Thanks for the replies guys.
After polishing all contact points, stretching the spring, and using the microcoil in the switch contact method (there was a little play in the contact screw) I have managed to get it to work 90% of the time. This is a massive improvement as originally it didn't work 90% of the time!
Tomorrow my loaded Spring should be here, so I am hoping that will sort the last 10%. If it does, it will be a cracking mod. Just a bit of a shame the amount of effort needed to get it to work.
The rda btw is spot on. Best atty clone I have.
After polishing all contact points, stretching the spring, and using the microcoil in the switch contact method (there was a little play in the contact screw) I have managed to get it to work 90% of the time. This is a massive improvement as originally it didn't work 90% of the time!
Tomorrow my loaded Spring should be here, so I am hoping that will sort the last 10%. If it does, it will be a cracking mod. Just a bit of a shame the amount of effort needed to get it to work.
The rda btw is spot on. Best atty clone I have.
I wonder if you could use magnets in the switch? Things that make ya go hmmmmmmmmmm.....
Also check the delrin ring to see if its holding the battery too high.
The negative contact should make a solid connection.
Ok, new spring went in this morning and after a day's worth of use I haven't had a single miss-fire or hot button issue. It's actually hitting really well and I have gone from hating the switch to actually really liking it.
The last spring was absolute junk and is already about half the size it should be as it has been compressed. For all those with a clone, invest in a decent Spring and clean the contacts. This mod has gone from being potentially binned, to pride of place in my daily users section.
The last spring was absolute junk and is already about half the size it should be as it has been compressed. For all those with a clone, invest in a decent Spring and clean the contacts. This mod has gone from being potentially binned, to pride of place in my daily users section.
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Here is your absolute fix as I have lots of experience with them. First, let me mention that the"clone" issues were cloned from the authentic. It had the same issues. Google Petri hot button and the first thing listed is in regards to an authentic.
Anyways, there are a few things going on that create the problems. One is the .... sorting that cannot handle the amps and the other is the slightly too short firing pin. Hopefully, you have a harbor freight near you, as they have a few little kits that comes in handy. One being an assorted spring set. 80% of it will be useless to us vapor people but the 20% is magical. High tension strong springs that you can trim to proper size. Occasionally, you will use 2 pairs of needle nose on either end of springs and twist in opposite directions to either open up the spring or course it down. This fixes your weak spring issue.
Next is your firing pin. Because it is slightly too short you end up arcing as electricity makes the desperate attempt to make a connection. Your quick and easy fix, get a small #4 washer if I remember correctly. Put the firing pin/screw through it before screwing into button on. This prevents the screw from being screwed in all the way which in turn extends it in length. No hot button or issues doing super sub Ohm. Enjoy!
Anyways, there are a few things going on that create the problems. One is the .... sorting that cannot handle the amps and the other is the slightly too short firing pin. Hopefully, you have a harbor freight near you, as they have a few little kits that comes in handy. One being an assorted spring set. 80% of it will be useless to us vapor people but the 20% is magical. High tension strong springs that you can trim to proper size. Occasionally, you will use 2 pairs of needle nose on either end of springs and twist in opposite directions to either open up the spring or course it down. This fixes your weak spring issue.
Next is your firing pin. Because it is slightly too short you end up arcing as electricity makes the desperate attempt to make a connection. Your quick and easy fix, get a small #4 washer if I remember correctly. Put the firing pin/screw through it before screwing into button on. This prevents the screw from being screwed in all the way which in turn extends it in length. No hot button or issues doing super sub Ohm. Enjoy!
Thanks for the detailed replies Scott. I did similar things to mine in the end and have been pleased with it ever since.
In case anyone's interested i had a bit of a short throw on my cherry bomber button and a good fix i found was to make a washer out of a cereal cardboard box.
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