Please Help Me Understand Voltage and Watts

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zoiDman

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Yes, that build with Kanthal does come out to about 2.0 ohms. And with nickel, about 0.12 ohms. And I discovered that ohms doesn't matter, but watts does (at least with the same wire size). I measured the temperature with a "FlashPoint Infrared Thermometer". Not only does wattage matter, but so does airflow over the coil(s). With mouth to lung, airflow is low and thus the coil can create more heat even at 4.5 watts. With lung hits, the coil is too low in temperature and would barely create any vapor.

Absolutely Air Flow Matters. So does Wicking.

All I am Questioning is you Comparison of 4.5 Watts in a Subtank to 35 Watts in a Mutation XL.

Seems like to Large of a Differential of Power from 4.5 to 35.
 

BillW50

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Absolutely Air Flow Matters. So does Wicking.

All I am Questioning is you Comparison of 4.5 Watts in a Subtank to 35 Watts in a Mutation XL.

Seems like to Large of a Differential of Power from 4.5 to 35.
Seems quite shocking but it makes sense when you think about it. When you hit that coil with 35 watts on the Mutation XL, the coil starts to heat up like normal. But you have those huge stainless steel posts attached to the coil. The positive post goes straight though to the 510 connection and not a lot of thermal bleed off there. But temperature doesn't care about positive or negative. And the negative is connected to also thermally to the whole stainless steel base. So whatever heat the coil creates, it is leaking to the whole base. So not only do you have to heat up the coil, but the base too. The Subtank has a similar problem. But the base is far smaller. So it takes far less energy to heat the coil and the temperature leakage is far less.
 

zoiDman

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Seems quite shocking but it makes sense when you think about it. When you hit that coil with 35 watts on the Mutation XL, the coil starts to heat up like normal. But you have those huge stainless steel posts attached to the coil. The positive post goes straight though to the 510 connection and not a lot of thermal bleed off there. But temperature doesn't care about positive or negative. And the negative is connected to also thermally to the whole stainless steel base. So whatever heat the coil creates, it is leaking to the whole base. So not only do you have to heat up the coil, but the base too. The Subtank has a similar problem. But the base is far smaller. So it takes far less energy to heat the coil and the temperature leakage is far less.

I'll have to take your word on all this. Because I don't have a Mutation XL.
 

zoiDman

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Well I only use the Mutation XL as a comparison since those are two huge differences I have here. So what others do you have and maybe I have the same and check those?

I have a Goblin rta which looks like this...

ud-goblin-v12-rta-rda-authentic-youde.jpg


I'm not seeing a Huge Difference in Heat Dissipation when I run it is Single Coil Mode as compare to my Subtank Mini's.
 
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mcclintock

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    You seem to have a good command of Ohm's Law. But what's it mean to vaping? If vaping started with the current level of battery-regulator tech, people wouldn't read so much into the resistance rating, like saying "I vape at .2 ohms" neccesarily means that much. But people started building coils mostly using mech mods, simple lithium battery units at a fixed voltage. If the coil of a certain resistance actually worked right, a lot could be inferred from that resistance, not just that it draws a certain amount of power, but it is a size that spreads that heat to the right heat density (flux).

    With more options that are now possible, or even before, we can try things that might seem equivalent, to see which has more mojo. More often differences are minor, but sometimes it seems a lot, like it crosses a threshold of perception into a new area, not as big a change as it ends up seeming. There are theories, some are even true, but a lot is experimentation.

    High powers are usually used with high airflow to get lung hits. Not only a larger amount of vapor, but in a shorter time. Can be very enjoyable, other times it seems to me I'd rather slow down.
     

    Fit_Four_Life

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    I have a Goblin RTA which looks like this...

    ud-goblin-v12-rta-rda-authentic-youde.jpg


    I'm not seeing a Huge Difference in Heat Dissipation when I run it is Single Coil Mode as compare to my Subtank Mini's.

    Sidebar:

    When you run the Goblin with a single coil, how do you block the 2 liquid channels on the other side where there is not a coil? I'm asking because I have the Goblin also and want to run it in single coil mode as I find it heats up dramatically with dual coils and runs the battery down faster. I'm jam packing cotton in them now but would like to know a better method if someone has one.
     

    zoiDman

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    Sidebar:

    When you run the Goblin with a single coil, how do you block the 2 liquid channels on the other side where there is not a coil? I'm asking because I have the Goblin also and want to run it in single coil mode as I find it heats up dramatically with dual coils and runs the battery down faster. I'm jam packing cotton in them now but would like to know a better method if someone has one.

    Yeah... I jam a Ball of Cotton into the e-Liquid slots when I'm in single coil mode. I also put a Small piece of a Bamboo BBQ Skewer into the 2nd Air Hole also.
     
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