Pls Explain How 50w Mod Pushes 7+ volts on (1) 6v battery?

[Trayce]

(Title should say (1) 3.7v !)

Hey all. I started vaping 2yrs ago and my Vamo V3 just died. I build my own coils @ 1.7ohm, make my own juice (100% VG), and use organic cotton wick. Now that I'm getting a new mod, I was watching a GrimmGreen vid about vaping higher ohms (like I do, vs sub-ohm) using more watts, and the amps are actually lower, making it safer that sub-ohm vaping, while still producing clouds and flavor. I do feel I need more power vaping 100% VG, as I'd like a warmer, more flavorful vape and 100% VG makes that difficult using a 15w mod.

So he was demonstrating an IPV v2 with (1) 18650 and a dual coil tank. In the end his build happened to level out to 1.7 ohms and he was using 35W for about 7.7 volts (vapecalc.com). My question is, how can he get 7.7 volts from a 3.7v battery?

I noticed the Vamo v10 has a 55w model that people complained will only work with (2) 18350 batteries, but then there is a 50W model that apparently works with (1) 18650 like the IPV v2 and many other 50w box mods. I already have (2) 18650s I switch off with, and don't care to stack batteries. But would like to understand how I get more than 7v out of the mod when using (1) 3.7v batt! Thanks all!

(After posting I am guessing the chip/board multiplies the power somehow but would still like an answer... )

 

[Monotremata]

Thats what the boost circuit is for in a regulated mod. However, boosting the voltage takes more amps as well. That power has to come from somewhere.
I have a Vamo v7 (which BTW is the latest authentic Vamo, the v8/9/10 are not real Vamos), and it can handle 40w with a single 18650. Your battery will still drain faster though.

 

[Boden]

Boost converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[Trayce]

Thanks for that info. So the v7 is the last real Vamo... wow, I knew some were fakes but figured there were fake and real Vamo's through v10 and just had to find the real ones. I really liked my Vamo but I do have one reservation getting another... maybe you can tell me if you've had this problem with your v7.

[snip previous text which was to ask about a rubber grommet under the fire pin I had to change out to silicone on my v3 to get a clean vape]

After more consideration I believe I will upgrade to a device that holds (2) 18650 since I will be using more watts, and has temperature control... switching to nickel wire and fine tuning with temp control to get a good warm vape with 100% VG without ever burning the cotton wick again sounds like a good plan. Now to wade through all the economical DNA40 or better mods...