Possible to use a normal multimeter?
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Yup + to middle post and -on threads make sure you have the correct volt settings also.....
Nice, thank you! Now I have a Sunday afternoon to spend measuring voltages, lol.
Since you asked that question, just throwing this out there. Make sure you don't have the meter set to measure resistance (ohms) and put the probes onto the battery. It will KILL the meter.
Repeat. Do not measure resistance of a battery, or a circuit that has power.
Repeat. Do not measure resistance of a battery, or a circuit that has power.
.Dittos to all the above, with one exception. If you try to measure the voltage of some of the variable voltage mods that use a pulse width modulation supply, the meter will show a lower voltage than is actually delivered, since the output is rapidly turning on and off. The meter will show you an average voltage, which will be lower than the peak voltage. This will only be a problem with some of the newer variable voltage devices.
And to add to the post above, if you're measuring the voltage on an unregulated VV device, it won't show you the true vaping voltage. When you measure the voltage without a load (the coil in the carto/atty drawing power) it will read higher than it really operates in normal conditions.
I don't think there are any VV PVs out there that use plain PWM to the atty. Any regular meter should work just fine, mine always have with either linear or switching type regulators.
I don't exactly follow what "an unregulated VV device" is. Aren't all VV mods made by using a regulator of some type?
??? what is an unregulated VV device. If a VV then it is regulated and the V produced will always be set point. That being said the unloaded V will be slightly lower, however the loaded V will be constant until the V of the battery or pack drops below set point.
Varying the voltage with a standard pot will give you exactly the same response to a load that it does without a pot - a voltage drop under load. A regulated system will maintain the same voltage under a load.
A "true rms" voltmeter is necessary to read the equivalent voltage of a pwm/switched regulator device.
Square output waves, even "smoothed out" are not simple to read otherwise.
You'll get a reading, but it will be flawed.
Square output waves, even "smoothed out" are not simple to read otherwise.
You'll get a reading, but it will be flawed.
TJ - The screw attaches to what? Second lead to shell or threads? You are measuring an unloaded condition? 3.39 suggests a Joye eGo - unloaded in the DC mode. You should also be able to get an AC volt reading if a Joye eGo. The DC read in combination with the AC read can sometimes be used to deduce what the RMS voltage is for PWM devices like the Joye eGo. But on some meters the AC ends up being double the DC. For these meters, no help with RMS voltage. On a Joye eGo what I have observed is constant 3.39 to 3.40 or so on DC unloaded reads throughout the discharge cycle. But AC (unless a doubling meter type), will vary as batt is discharged. Duty rate (which is changing as discharge takes place) of the PWM can be determined if you can get decent AC reads. Duty rate (expressed as fraction) is 1 minus the the fraction of the AC read divided by 2.2 times DC read. But difficult to get a steady AC read, particularly when unloaded and, again, not valid if AC is simply doubling DC. RMS voltage, in case interested, would be the DC read divided by the square root of the duty rate. Duty rate of eGo usually in range of 0.82 to 1. So, that 3.39 shown on your meter would be about 3.74 v RMS if at a 0.82 duty rate.
The origional atty ground wire is attached to the other end of the screw. A second lead goes to the center post. Real simple to make and works well.
Same bat with 2 ohm load (0-25ohm pot)
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How do you attach/connect that second lead to center post? If screw is threaded into steel shell of old atty - wouldn't that be sufficient for ground? The negative reading suggests that the ground is going to + probe of meter and center post to - or common. Is that case here?
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