Potentiometer for the DNA board

[Hillshire_Farms]

I just ordered a dna board for my next mod. I know that you can use 1k-10k pots on it. I was wondering if there is any particular reason to not use a 10k.


Also, I want to put an adjustment knob on the outside of the mod for the wattage, any suggestions for a pot and knob? I don't like thumbwheels. I'm a noob in electronics so I am leery of picking one off a website.

 

[mamu]

I've tried both 1K and 10K, but I've settled on using the 1K as it seems to be not as twitchy as the 10K and easier to fine tune to the exact Watts you want. But it's prob just in my head cuz they both work aok.

For trimmer selection, see this thread...
Trimmer selection

 

[Para]

I just ordered a DNA board for my next mod. I know that you can use 1k-10k pots on it. I was wondering if there is any particular reason to not use a 10k.


Also, I want to put an adjustment knob on the outside of the mod for the wattage, any suggestions for a pot and knob? I don't like thumbwheels. I'm a noob in electronics so I am leery of picking one off a website.

I'm the biggest electronic noob on the forum so help is just a question away from the experts here. Everyone has their own preference, but I really like the fit and feel of Digikey's 10k. (thanks to Breaktru)

I've got some 1k's on order so I want to see the difference on the next build.

 

[Hillshire_Farms]

This is why I brought my questions here.

 

[SAX]

Care to share your GGTS build? Do you have it posted?

Thanks,
Gary

I'm the biggest electronic noob on the forum so help is just a question away from the experts here. Everyone has their own preference, but I really like the fit and feel of Digikey's 10k. (thanks to Breaktru)

I've got some 1k's on order so I want to see the difference on the next build.

 

[Para]

Care to share your GGTS build? Do you have it posted?

Thanks,
Gary

This was the test to see if it can fit and work.....like all builds I learned I want to make a couple of changes and hopefully improvements. Here's the wiring so you don't fry the DNA hooking it up

jump the switch ports so it's always "on"
solder the negative atomizer port to the inside of the top tube (mechanical switch creates the connection)
Pot ports are self evident
Positive atomizer port to the center pin (you will lose the floating function of the center pin)
Positive battery port to the connector for 18500 battery.

I use a delrin disk in the end of the tube for the positive battery connector. I want to add a delrin disk at the top to seal off the tube from ejuice leakage and have the top tube completely self contained....iow, swap out the tube and put a regular center pin in the connector if I want to convert back to regular GGTS mode. That's the goal...we'll see how it goes.

It's nothing fancy; just crowded inside.

 

[SAX]

Thanks Para, that gives me a solid starting point. If you come up with anything new / improvements please let me know. Did you use the Kick before this? If you did what was the difference? Thanks again

 

[Para]

Thanks Para, that gives me a solid starting point. If you come up with anything new / improvements please let me know. Did you use the Kick before this? If you did what was the difference? Thanks again

I was part of the Beta Testing on the Kick and the DNA, for me, is the same vaping experience. The DNA has added features and can be installed in a lot more mod styles.....just look at what Breaktru and Mamu have done so far...and they are just getting started.

What makes both devices great is the 4th vape is like the 32nd vape is like the 95th vape. VV can't do that.

Evolv has some great ideas on the drawing board and has already changed the vaping experience with what they've produced in a very short time. Good times to be a vaper.

 

[SAX]

Thanks, yes I know what your are talking about, I have a Darwin and a Kick for my GG. Vaping is alway the way you like it every time.

 

[Guinnesspubcan]

Go Meat! Sorry bro, had to.